Control Box buzzing

[Malars2]

Last Sunday morning my kids realized that our water was off. We have had problems with out well pump previously, so I just assumed that was our problem. We have a 250' deep well that uses black flexible water line, so I decided that I would just pull the pump myself. Instead of checking the control box or anything else, I just straight to pulling it. When I put the pump in a couple of years, I knew that the 3/4 HP pump would eventually succumb to failure. It wasn't rated to work at the depths required of it, but I have a family of seven and couldn't wait to order a different pump. This time I actually found a 1 HP pump at Menards, so I picked one up and installed it. I also installed the new control box, but the pump still wouldn't start.

After the new pump wouldn't work, I thought I might need to change out the pressure switch. The old plumbing was in bad shape, so I also decided to switch out the well tank as well. We had a 20 gal tank before, but I upgraded it to a 52 gallon tank. I plumbed the tank and installed the new pressure switch, but the control box is still buzzing. I'm now at a loss for what to do next. I didn't know if I damaged the wire when I pulled the pump, but I disconnected the well pump from power and the control box still buzzed. I plan to call the well contractor in our area, but I thought I might get some ideas here. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Reach4]

Check that you have 240 volts to the input to the control box (fed by the pressure switch).

You could have a bad wire or connection.

You could also try ohming out the 3 power wires out of the control box to each other and ground.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Malars2]

That’s great advice. It does seem like there is something electrical going on.

 

[Reach4]

Also, if you have a clamp-around ammeter, it might be interesting to see what each wire is carrying.

If you put the clamp around the 3 wires that go down the well at the same time, the current should measure near zero. The currents in and out cancel ideally, but the cancellation is going to be imperfect, even in a good system. But if there is a ground fault down the well, then the net current is going to be higher.

Similarly, if you have a ground wire running down to the pump, that wire should show zero current.

 

[Steve J]

I'm going to jump on op thread.
I also have a buzzing control box. But mine is date code c80 for a 1/2 hp. pump. The pump is approximately 120 feet down and around 20 feet from the bottom of a drilled well. It was used a little while before I aquired it and it and the pump have been in service in our well since 1986 and the pump pulled once for a new check valve . The control box over time started out with a barely heard buzzing sound unless in the basement we couldn't hear it.
Now it's gradually gotten louder over time and can be heard in the kitchen which is right above the box.
Do this boxes have contacts and wear out over time ?
Should I replace the box fearing that it will quit completely or even catch fire ?
Thanks for any and all replies.

 

[Reach4]

Boxes have a relay, which can wear out. The start capacitor degrades, and you could call that wearing out.

So you replace the relay and the start capacitor, or put in a new box. I don't know what causes the buzzing, but throwing parts at the situation seems warranted to me.

 

[WorthFlorida]

For irrigation pumps I've had motor relay switches buzz. The contacts wear out, the spring for NO without power loses it tensile or the 24v coil has issues. It less than a twenty dollar part.

 

[Valveman]

Usually the coil in the relay loses magnetic force and lets the armature buzz. Nothing in those boxes but a start cap and relay. Just as well get a new box.