Submersible pumps are multi-stage, which is why I recommended a 10 GPM, 1HP like a 10S10-15 Grundfos. But if you do not want a submersible you will have to use something like a HPS10 Sta-Rite.
City Water Uphill
- Thread starter lemahoney08
- Start date
Submersible pumps are multi-stage, which is why I recommended a 10 GPM, 1HP like a 10S10-15 Grundfos. But if you do not want a submersible you will have to use something like a HPS10 Sta-Rite.
http://www.lockewell.com/pdf/goulds/B5-33GB.pdf has some pump curves that could help.
Goulds 10GB10 is also 10 GPM 1 HP. 10GB07 is 3/4 HP.
Goulds 10GB10 is also 10 GPM 1 HP. 10GB07 is 3/4 HP.
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lemahoney08
New Member
Is there a float switch that would work well to open the valve to fill, but also shut down the pump if tank becomes empty? What is the best way to accomplish these two tasks?
Here is a float switch that will open and close the electric valve. http://www.grainger.com/product/SJE.../rp/s/is/image/Grainger/5AEP0_AS01?$smthumb$\
The best way to protect the pump from running if the tank is dry is by using a Cycle Sensor. http://cpkits.com/collections/cycle-sensor-pump-monitors
The best way to protect the pump from running if the tank is dry is by using a Cycle Sensor. http://cpkits.com/collections/cycle-sensor-pump-monitors
lemahoney08
New Member
It wouldn't need to be a pump switch, but more of a valve to close the city water supply line off.
Is the cycle sensor an easy add on at a later time once I see how much water I use from the tank? Any additional wire requirements for it or does it just mount with the pressure switch using existing wires?
Is the cycle sensor an easy add on at a later time once I see how much water I use from the tank? Any additional wire requirements for it or does it just mount with the pressure switch using existing wires?
The float switch controls the electric valve. You just run a 24V plug in transformer through the float switch and to the electric valve. Like this one http://irritrol.com/valves_205.aspx
The Cycle Sensor just goes on the two wires after the breaker. It doesn't need to be close to the pressure switch, pump, or other controls.
The Cycle Sensor just goes on the two wires after the breaker. It doesn't need to be close to the pressure switch, pump, or other controls.
lemahoney08
New Member
Can the float switch run off the pump 12/3 wire or will it need its own 12/2 run?
You can run the float switch/solenoid valve on 12-2 or 3, but you don't need that large of wire. 18-3 would be big enough, but 12 won't hurt anything. Here is a drawing that shows how a float switch/solenoid/plug in transformer is wired.
lemahoney08
New Member
What I meant was can the pump and float be on the same circuit (220v 12/3 with ground) or does the float need its own dedicated wire?
The solenoid/float switch only needs 24 volts. You can take off the power wires to the pump with a 220 to 24 volt transformer and go to the float switch if you need.
The Cycle Sensor, if used, should not have transformer fed by its output. While the same breaker could handle both, the Cycle Sensor output should only feed a 2-wire pump or the control box if you have a 3-wire pump.
Ballvalve
General Engineering Contractor
Funny, but I use that valve, a Genie 1" sprinkler valve and about 200 feet of 14-2 wire to the same float switch you linked to Graingers. But I use all those cheap transformers that pile up from electronic devices - chargers, what have you, and most are 9 to 14v, but have run that float for 30 years. Those 24 volt valves will open on 8 volts. Also you linked a normally open valve, I think he needs a normally closed one. "pump up" ... and you can find that guy for 45$ if you shop around. He does not need anything on the incoming city water except that 24v valve. I would drop a submersible into the tank and then use a square D low pressure cut off switch for the output up the hill. Why worry about the tank going dry? City looses water pressure? Are you in Iraq?
I can't see where it says anything about normally open. But you can get them both ways and you are right that the valve needs to be normally closed. And you may not think the tank will be pumped dry, but if you don't plan for it, that is the one thing that will happen. Murphy's law
Did you mean switch?
Yes he must have meant "switch", because this link http://www.grainger.com/product/SJE.../rp/s/is/image/Grainger/5AEP0_AS01?$smthumb$\
is for a normally open switch. And you also want a normally closed float switch. Sorry for posting the wrong link.
Ballvalve
General Engineering Contractor
Sorry, I meant float switch..... but you guys got it.
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