Cheapest way to lower manganese

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Taylorjm

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So the only issue I would have with your setup is this. It looks like your injecting peroxide after the pressure tank and into your contact tank. Unless you have a more complicated system and it's not just turning your peroxide pump on and off, you will have inconsistent peroxide amounts. You showed an outlet that goes on when there is water flow, but the water flowing could be 1gpm with a toilet, or 5gpm with a bathtub. But if the peroxide pump is turning on and off, it's injecting the same amount regardless of the water flow based on the dial set on the pump. There is equipment that measures the water flow and adjusts the pump settings based on that, but not sure if you have that or not. That's why I chose to put mine before the pressure tank. I calculated my well pumps 18gpm into the pressure tank when it turns on and refills the tank. That amount is pretty constant because its injecting at the same rate the pressure tank is refilling. I have 4ppm iron and very little magnesium and the calculations came out that I will only use about 2 gallons of peroxide a year but we only go through about 30,000 gallons of water a year at the vacation home. So not much at all. You will notice that the peroxide pump isn't running constantly when it's set. Mine cycles on and off while the pump is refilling the tank to get the residual value I want. When the calculator spits out the gallons of peroxide you use per day, you have to remember that's only when water is used. It's not being used 24 hours. So for me my well pump runs for 75 seconds when injecting peroxide and has a 20gallon drawdown. So I had to calculate how many times the 20 gallons will get used in a day, and how much peroxide it will consume.
 

Charrie

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Thanks for the replies and advice.
So if using 35% HP it would probably be best to dilute it outside and then bring it in to put in the tank?

I understand about not using the softener as a filter. This system was installed by a company for the previous owner. They told him that it would take care of all of his issues! So now I just need to figure out what to do with the equipment I have and what and where everything needs to be.

Taylorjm , is your peroxide injector after the pressure tank? Most of the diagrams I have seen show it before the pressure tank.
I would have to build a new well house to accommodate all of the equipment and run a new underground electrical line 300 feet to the well in order to have the injection pump up there. That is not in the budget right now.
I was thinking about pouring a concrete pad just outside the laundry room and building a small insulated attachment to hold the equipment. The disconnect for the well pump is about 30 feet away from that area. Does the injection pump have to run when the well pump is on or can it run continuously when ever water is being used? Was thinking that maybe one could use a current sensing relay so that when the well pump kicks on, the relay would energize the injection pump.

It looks like a back washing filter system would be over $1000.00
I was look ingf at buying a tank and manual valve. That might be around $175 if i am looking at the right parts. Then there is the tube with basket, gravel, and media. It seems like that would be the cheapest way to go for now?

My local hardware store sells well pump supplies and those blue filter housings as well as filters. If i remember correctly, they weren't very expensive compared to the ones sold online at water stores. Is there a big difference in these housings and filters?

For now I need to have everything in the laundry room. There is enough room add another tank. There is also space to 2 or 3 of the blue filters. Is there a problem with them being clear? It seems like you could keep an eye on the filter better if it was clear.

How should this system be set up? Can I use the contact tank I have now that the peroxide first goes into?
Thinking a filter first at the supply line. Then the peroxide injection into the contact tank. From there to the backwash filter. Then into 1 or 2 spin down filters? then finally the water softener? There is a lot to learn about all of this!

Taylorjm , we have the same pump except yours in 220v. What is the black tank in the pic? Is there a big difference in quality of tanks?
Thanks for the calculator. I have to find out how much water my pump supplies.

My softener regenerates itself every night no matter how much water I use. Can i just manually regenerate it every few days?
In the winter I normally shower every other day. Dishes are very few and wash them by hand using the water sparingly. probably 2 gallons a day on average to do dishes. Laundry is one load a week. The rest is flushing the toilet which his set at the lowest setting. 2 years ago we had problems with the leach field staying wet. 150 feet was added to the existing lines and we started conserving as much water as possible. We were told that if the upper leach field can rest and the usage is cut way back, the field would probably repair itself in a few years. so I am very conservative with the water. I am guessing around 200 gallons a week not counting the water softener which uses close to 40 or 50 gallons a cycle.

Thanks
Charrie
 
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Reach4

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Taylorjm , is your peroxide injector after the pressure tank? Most of the diagrams I have seen show it before the pressure tank.
See post #21.

Diagrams that show injecting after the pressure tank should be assuming a proportional pump that injects according to a proportional sensor downstream.
 

Charrie

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DUH,, I didn't see post 21. I saw post 20 and didn't see I needed to click on page 2!

The HP is injected to oxidize the iron and manganese so that the katalox-light can capture it? Or does the Kata;ox-lite oxidize the Iron and manganese on its own without the HP injection? I was told originally that the HP injection was to remove the rotten egg smell and kill any coliform bacteria.

Also since using the IO to clean the softener, my water has changed colors and started smelling like it did when I first moved here. The water is slightly darker now and the odd smell I was getting has turned back to the sulfur smell I was used to.

The water on the RT was drawn 3 or 4 days ago and the left is after the IO.
watercolor.jpg

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Charrie
 

Reach4

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I would do an extra regen. IO itself has a smell, but the extra regen should rinse that away.

There is depth in #21.
 

Taylorjm

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Sorry I just checked this thread. The black tank in my picture is my water softener. Mine is injected before the pressure tank. You may not want to consider this, but what about moving your pressure tank to the same room as the softener? Then you could inject the HP before the pressure tank, which would also act as the contact tank and get rid of your current contact tank. Did you say your softener regenerates every night? With such low water usage something must not be set right. I'm using the big blue 4.5x20 after my pressure tank to capture the iron and it's capturing a lot more than it did before the HP injection. I have a clear housing on my filter, and before the plastic housing would be iron stained and not much would be captured by the filter itself. When I put in the HP injection, the iron staining in the plastic housing is gone and now the filter is capturing the iron. Here are pictures of the filter before and after installing the HP injection. You can see that now the clear iron has been converted with the HP into ferric iron that can be captured by the filter. I'm not sure why you were considering katalox filter since they are made for iron and you don't have any iron, well .73 ppm so its very low. Yes your manganese is a bit high but I didn't think HP injection would do anything for manganese.
2021-12-29 18.11.54.jpg
2022-12-09 18.18.16.jpg
 
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Charrie

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Thanks for the help and advice!
I re-read the posts and here are some thoughts.
Ultimately i need a pitiless adapter installed and do away with the well cover. I need to pour a concrete pad up against the house and build a little storage area big enough to hold the pressure tank and all the rest of the equipment. That is not doable right now though.

What about,,,,,
I understand pretty clearly now from Taylorjm s post about the varying flow rate but constant injection rate issue in my current setup. I do not have space in the laundry room to add very much more equipment. I could squeeze in another 10" diameter tank perhaps. If I id away with the contact tank, then I would have room to move the pressure tank into the room.
I understand that the pressure tank also acts as a contact tank. My pressure tank is a 20 gallon Well Trol WX-202 and holds about 5 gallons of water.
I have already had to put down some 3/4" plywood under the existing equipment because the floor was starting to sag.

What if the pressure tank and pressure switch stays up at the well instead, I installed a current sensing switch that would sense when ever the well pump turns and turn the injection pump on with the system I have now.
The diagram below is of a 3 phase system but the switch works the same with a single phase system. The current sensing switch basically operates like an amp probe but when it senses amperage being drawn, it will close an internal set of contacts which can operate a relay, or contactor , or the actual device. In this case, the injection pump itself. It might be better to have the current sensing switch operate contactor that would operate the pump.

Wired this way, the HP injection pump would only run when the well pump was running. These switches can be bought for around $20. IT would require me to run a line about 25 feet from the outside pole where the disconnect for the well pump is, to the Steiner pump inside. The other option would be to just add a circuit for the well pump in the house breaker box which is right by the contact tank.

What would be the issue with my current set up if the injection pump were coming on and off with the well pump?

wellsensor2.jpg


Reach4 you mentioned: "proportional pump that injects according to a proportional sensor downstream" I am not sure what that is but when I started looking for it, several things came up with a 3, 4, and 6 hundred price?

Taylorjm ,How often do you have to change your filters?

According to one of the water purification sites, in a study done HP was not a sufficient oxidizer for manganese though it would do a great job with iron. That is why I was thinking about a katalox filter. I guess the thing to do is get the HP system going and then check the levels in the house and adjust experiment with the injection rate. It also may take having the pressure tank included as a contact tank in order to have the contact time needed to convert the manganese.

As to the water softener, it is a very simple head on it. All you can do is set the current time, daily regeneration time, and hardness. One can also run a manual regeneration any time but other then that, it regenerates every day at the daily time you set it to.
If no one is here, it regenerates every day!

Thanks
Charrie
 

Reach4

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"What would be the issue with my current set up if the injection pump were coming on and off with the well pump?" What would you think would be the issue? I tried to explain in post #14.

You brush your teeth, and let's say the well pump goes on just as you are finishing. You are then using zero gpm. Where does that peroxide go?

On the other hand, you are filling your tub at 6 gpm. You are only pumping peroxide at the same rate as when you had already stopped using water.
 
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Taylorjm

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Thanks for the help and advice!
I re-read the posts and here are some thoughts.
Ultimately i need a pitiless adapter installed and do away with the well cover. I need to pour a concrete pad up against the house and build a little storage area big enough to hold the pressure tank and all the rest of the equipment. That is not doable right now though.

What about,,,,,
I understand pretty clearly now from Taylorjm s post about the varying flow rate but constant injection rate issue in my current setup. I do not have space in the laundry room to add very much more equipment. I could squeeze in another 10" diameter tank perhaps. If I id away with the contact tank, then I would have room to move the pressure tank into the room.
I understand that the pressure tank also acts as a contact tank. My pressure tank is a 20 gallon Well Trol WX-202 and holds about 5 gallons of water.
I have already had to put down some 3/4" plywood under the existing equipment because the floor was starting to sag.

What if the pressure tank and pressure switch stays up at the well instead, I installed a current sensing switch that would sense when ever the well pump turns and turn the injection pump on with the system I have now.
The diagram below is of a 3 phase system but the switch works the same with a single phase system. The current sensing switch basically operates like an amp probe but when it senses amperage being drawn, it will close an internal set of contacts which can operate a relay, or contactor , or the actual device. In this case, the injection pump itself. It might be better to have the current sensing switch operate contactor that would operate the pump.

Wired this way, the HP injection pump would only run when the well pump was running. These switches can be bought for around $20. IT would require me to run a line about 25 feet from the outside pole where the disconnect for the well pump is, to the Steiner pump inside. The other option would be to just add a circuit for the well pump in the house breaker box which is right by the contact tank.

What would be the issue with my current set up if the injection pump were coming on and off with the well pump?

View attachment 90193

Reach4 you mentioned: "proportional pump that injects according to a proportional sensor downstream" I am not sure what that is but when I started looking for it, several things came up with a 3, 4, and 6 hundred price?

Taylorjm ,How often do you have to change your filters?

According to one of the water purification sites, in a study done HP was not a sufficient oxidizer for manganese though it would do a great job with iron. That is why I was thinking about a katalox filter. I guess the thing to do is get the HP system going and then check the levels in the house and adjust experiment with the injection rate. It also may take having the pressure tank included as a contact tank in order to have the contact time needed to convert the manganese.

As to the water softener, it is a very simple head on it. All you can do is set the current time, daily regeneration time, and hardness. One can also run a manual regeneration any time but other then that, it regenerates every day at the daily time you set it to.
If no one is here, it regenerates every day!

Thanks
Charrie
The issue with that current sensing switch is your well is probably 220v and you can’t run a 110v pump off that 220v line. So how would you power the pump? That's why I went with a 220v injection pump, but the things are $400 so I wouldn't want to buy a new one unless you have to. My hp system is new and I just added gauges to monitor the filter so I don’t know how long it will last. It’s a vacation home so it really won’t get used much until summer. I have a 5 micron gradient filter now but I may move to a 25 micron if it clogs too fast. I have more iron than you though. I have about 1.5ppm so that's twice as much as you. Personally, with the amount of iron you have, I wouldn't bother with HP injection, but I think you might have said you have some hydrogen sulfide odors and I think the HP will take care of that too. Right now you have a huge HP tank and you aren't using that much water. I use a 2.5 gallon water bottle like the ones you get for a water cooler for my HP storage tank and that will last me a year at least.
 
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Charrie

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Thanks for the advice and tanking time to reply.
As to moving the pressure tank and pressure switch into the utility room so that i could inject the HP directly into the pressure tank when ever the well pump comes on. Big issue there after I did come calculations. 2x6" floor joists with 3/4" plywood over that. In the pic you can see that I added another piece of 3/4" plywood under the tanks because they were starting to tilt. I calculated that if I moved the pressure tank to the laundry room, all together i would have 840 lbs (counting water heater) over a 8' span. The tanks do share some weight between 2 floor joists but are more centered over 1 of them. So I can t add any more weight there. If I removed the contact tank then that would more then balance out the pressure tank though. I think though I may need another tank to remove the Manganese later on..

Reach4 I understand what you are saying about where would the HP go and why the injection needs to happen at the pressure tank. I think.. With the diaphragm in the pressure tank, the water shut off in the house but the pump still running to build up pressure to cut off, the HP being injected would flow into the pressure tank which acts like a contact tank.
Here in the laundry room, currently the injection occurs in the 3/4 pipe feeding into the contact tank and the tank has a tube that feeds the hp to the bottom. If toilet fills and all flow is shut off but the well pump is building up to cut off pressure, the HP would never make it through the 3/4 tubing and into the contact tank because there is no diaphragm to allow extra water in. Something like that I believe!

Taylorjm , yes my tank is quite large and based on your calculations, (I see your reasoning for just buying the 7%HP) I could reduce it down to say 2.5 gallons then perhaps I could fit it into the well cover along with a Steiner pump. The tank would be cheap but as you say, those pumps are right around $400. I checked just a 240v motor and they are still around $400. So now my brain is working in a different direction Can I install a 240v/120v step-down control transformer and move the current injection pump to the well.. ?
Remember that I have neutral wire and this transformer is supposed to create its own.

Also talked to the well driller who drilled all of the wells in this area. He said that his father died and most of the records are gone.
He also said that most of my iron is probably cumming from the pump support chain. Yes a chain, not a rope or cable is supporting this pump. He recommended pulling the pump removing the chain, and shocking the well. he said to wait a couple of weeks and test the water. He said he guaranteed it would be much better.

Any way here is a vid on control transformers My pump shows 1.5amps

Thanks
Charrie
 

Reach4

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I would think you could extend the output tube from the injection pump to the existing pressure tank location. No need to move the pressure tank to the pump.

And seems to me that you could just add less volume of strong H2O2, and then top up with water.

Your pump guy makes sense if you don't have a lot of steel casing. Let me warn you that he may try to sell you a new pump while the working old pump is pulled.
 

Taylorjm

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Thanks for the advice and tanking time to reply.
As to moving the pressure tank and pressure switch into the utility room so that i could inject the HP directly into the pressure tank when ever the well pump comes on. Big issue there after I did come calculations. 2x6" floor joists with 3/4" plywood over that. In the pic you can see that I added another piece of 3/4" plywood under the tanks because they were starting to tilt. I calculated that if I moved the pressure tank to the laundry room, all together i would have 840 lbs (counting water heater) over a 8' span. The tanks do share some weight between 2 floor joists but are more centered over 1 of them. So I can t add any more weight there. If I removed the contact tank then that would more then balance out the pressure tank though. I think though I may need another tank to remove the Manganese later on..

Reach4 I understand what you are saying about where would the HP go and why the injection needs to happen at the pressure tank. I think.. With the diaphragm in the pressure tank, the water shut off in the house but the pump still running to build up pressure to cut off, the HP being injected would flow into the pressure tank which acts like a contact tank.
Here in the laundry room, currently the injection occurs in the 3/4 pipe feeding into the contact tank and the tank has a tube that feeds the hp to the bottom. If toilet fills and all flow is shut off but the well pump is building up to cut off pressure, the HP would never make it through the 3/4 tubing and into the contact tank because there is no diaphragm to allow extra water in. Something like that I believe!

Taylorjm , yes my tank is quite large and based on your calculations, (I see your reasoning for just buying the 7%HP) I could reduce it down to say 2.5 gallons then perhaps I could fit it into the well cover along with a Steiner pump. The tank would be cheap but as you say, those pumps are right around $400. I checked just a 240v motor and they are still around $400. So now my brain is working in a different direction Can I install a 240v/120v step-down control transformer and move the current injection pump to the well.. ?
Remember that I have neutral wire and this transformer is supposed to create its own.

Also talked to the well driller who drilled all of the wells in this area. He said that his father died and most of the records are gone.
He also said that most of my iron is probably cumming from the pump support chain. Yes a chain, not a rope or cable is supporting this pump. He recommended pulling the pump removing the chain, and shocking the well. he said to wait a couple of weeks and test the water. He said he guaranteed it would be much better.

Any way here is a vid on control transformers My pump shows 1.5amps

Thanks
Charrie
A step down transformer wouldn't work I don't think. The problem is you most likely have 3 wires going to your well pump. 2 hots and a ground. You can't split that off into the 110v because you don't have a neutral wire.

The contact tank you have now probably weighs more than your pressure tank. Your pressure tank weighs about 33lbs, plus the 5 gallons of water, so another 40lbs. That's only 73lbs. You may think the pressure tank will weigh more but not one that small. 73lbs added to that room better not make a difference. If it does you better be careful who walks in that room! Moving the pressure tank, removing the contact tank, reducing the size of the HP storage tank (you could even put the HP storage tank mounted on a shelf so it doesn't take floor space) and your floor will have much less weight on it. Like you said, a layer of 3/4" plywood over the floor should be fine even with your 2x6 joists.
 

Reach4

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A stepdown transformer to drive a 120vac injection pump would work. No neutral input needed.

I am not sure about what is allowed by code, but if you ran a new cable with hots, neutral, and ground to the switchbox, I think you could drive the 120 volt injection pump from one of the switched hots and the neutral.

Another possibility would be to move the sensor switch while moving the injector.
 

Charrie

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Stopped by the electrical inspectors office Monday and he just off the bat said that the voltage drop would be too much and burn the pump up so I didn't ask any more about it.
i used a voltage drop calculator from southwire and it shows #10 wire to just be within the 3% voltrage drop at 450'
I calculated 6 amps for the 1/2 hp well pump and 1.5 amps for the injection pump. I read that the control/ step down transformer is about 99% efficient and so there is really no loss there. But that came out to a 2.95% voltage drop. I calculated 300 feet to the well and guessed 150 feet deep.

Correct Taylorjm , There is no neutral wire and that is a big issue here. Reach4 , the problem with running anew line is that I have to cross over the septic tank and lines, across the driveway where it goes over a 4' culvert pipe. The water line is also buried in there somewhere. The water line and electrical line were pretty much center of the driveway when we replaced the culvert pipe which has a creek that flows through it.

The wiring diagram for the step down transformer I am looking at shows needing to bond one leg of the secondary 120v side to ground. I am still researching that. Also if i understand correctly, the secondary (120v) side of the transformer is compleatly separate from the primary system.

Taylorjm , the idea of removing the 15 gallon HP storage tank and ging with a smaller 2 gallon tank as well being able to put it on a shelf.
Are you saying that I can eliminate the contact tank if I move the pressure tank to the laundry room? That would be great.

The local well driller said that removing the chain would probably eliminate the iron in the water. i believe he said that iron is not usually an issue in this area. In a different thread Valveman said not to shock the well with the chain in it as it would cause it to rust and raise the iron level. So if removing the chain would eliminate the iron then the only issue is the manganese.

both the iron and manganese are in a un-precipitated state? Meaning that they are completely dissolved in the water?

I keep reading that a water softener can remove iron and manganese. Some sites say significant amounts of manganese and others say small amounts of manganese. I believe in a post above that we discussed that a softener should not be used as a filter though. But if I remove the chain and that significantly reduces the.75 iron, would the softener be able to remove or dramatically reduce the .29 or manganese?

I am a little confused on the EPA guidelines for manganese in drinking water.
Exerts from:
The United States Environmental Protection Agency (US EPA) has developed a health advisory level (HAL) for manganese in drinking water of 0.3 mg/L which is intended to be protective of life-time exposure for the general population.
The US EPA recommends that infants up to 6 months of age should not be given water with manganese concentrations greater than 0.3 mg/L for more than a total of 10 days per year, nor should the water be used to make formula for more than 10 days per year.
The US EPA recommends that the general population should not ingest water with manganese concentrations greater than 1 mg/L for more than a total of 10 days per year.

According to what I interpret from the above, my 0.29 should be safe for adults to drink though the taste might not be the best?

Thanks
Charrie
 

Reach4

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The ground in that link is not necessary for functioning, but is a protective ground (green wire type stuff).

For a 1/2 hp 230 volt pump, the Franklin AIM manual says you can go up to 1020 ft each way. With 3/4 hp, 760 ft. To be perfectly clear, each wire could be 760 ft.
 

Charrie

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Reach4 from everything I have researched, I agree with you on the ground. It is interesting how the 120 volts on the secondary side of the transformer created in the transformer and is not physically connected to either of the primary L1 or L2 input lines.
on the primary side you have 2 120 volt lines and if you were to check each to ground you have 120v. If you check the voltage between the 2 lines you would read 240V. Since the primary side and secondary side are separate, it would be interested to know what voltage one would read if they went from the secondary 120v line to one of the 120v primary side lines?

Wow that is a long run of the wiring! Franklin must be allowing 5% voltage drop? I was calculating using 3% drop bit had no guide to go by.

I did some calculations on the contact tank. The label says 1054. It is 11" OD so I calculated 10" ID and 53" high. That came to 18 gallons plus the weight of the tank which is unknown to me. That is 150 lbs of water in the tank then maybe 50 lbs for the tank. That's 200 lbs verses the 73 lbs that Taylorjm calculated for my pressure tank.

From what all we have talked about, here is perhaps my best plan of action if I have understood everything well.

I do away with the 10x54 contact tank and the 15 gallon injection tank. I can move the pressure tank to the laundry room and tie the HP injection line into the supply side of the pressure tank. The I can use a 2 or 3 gallon tank for the HP and put the pump and tank on a shelf if I like. Of course the water softener will stay.

Now this part I am not sure on. The HP injection will precipitate any un-precipitated iron and some of the manganese. That will require me to install filters. I plan to use the spin down filters and will have plenty of room to mount them on the wall in the room.

I am guessing that they should be between the pressure tank and the water softener? How many and what type would I need?
I was thinking to buy the single ones from the hardware store that sells well supplies and tie them together with a pressure gauge for each of them so I could monitor when it is time to change them. I plan to leave the screen mesh sediment filter up at the well house as it catches the bigger particles.

So what do you guys think? Will this solve the Iron and manganese issue?
I plan to remove the chain and shock the well asap which will be a different project as it may involve new pipe, wire, and other parts.

Thanks
Charrie
 

Reach4

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https://www.water-softeners-filters...30579-poly-glass-vessel-media-tank-w-base.php has some numbers for you.

Measuring the voltage between one line of the transformer primary to one line of the transformer secondary is undefined. A transformer as in your link isolates the two, and you could in theory stand in a mud puddle, and touch just one line of the secondary, and not get shocked.

However there is another type of transformer called an autotransformer. That one will shock you if you pull that stunt.

Whether to put the filter before or after the softener is discussed by people. I am not sure which is better. After catches any softener beads that break.

Here is a quote from the Franklin AIM manual: "Cable lengths in Tables 11 & 11A allow for a 5% voltage drop running at maximum nameplate amperes. If 3% voltage drop is desired, multiply Table 11 and 11A lengths by 0.6 to get maximum cable length."

Did you notice that the nominal voltage for your pump is 230 vac and the supply nominal is 240 vac? How about that for some extra margin.
 
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Charrie

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Thanks for the information on the tank. So that tank can be used with the water softener if I wanted or needed to increase the size? Are the softener controls matched to the tank size or would my 10x54 work with the same control but more media?
Is there an advantage with having a much larger tank for the softener? My small tank is supposed to regenerate daily. I have been manually regenerating it every 3 to 4 days right now.

Very interesting about the transformers! I see. The control transformer is completely separated between the primary and secondary where the autotransformer shares part of the coils between the primary and secondary. I think! The autotransformer would not be used in my system as it would cause problems with the ground and neutral?

The reason I am thinking about putting the filters between the pressure tank and softener is because it is my understanding that if i am injecting HP into the pressure tank then it will oxygenate the iron and some manganese and cause to precipitate. At that point instead of being completely dissolved in the water, it would be particles floating in the water and can be removed by filtration.

You mentioned beads breaking and passing through the water system. Perhaps I should also add a filter after the softener?

So that would be perhaps 2 filters between the pressure tank and softener and one after the softener.

Thanks
Charrie
 

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Two filters sounds good to me. Note that a 20x4.5 filter housing is heavy when full of water. So you don't want to have to lift that at arms length. I have Pentair Big Blue 4.5x20 housings. Ideally there would be a bypass valve system in case the filter housing springs a leak. I always keep a spare o-ring on hand, because sometimes you cannot reuse the o-ring. I also have sort of a bypass system if I ever need it. I put valves at the input and output of my housings, and I could pass water around that with a potable water hose in a pinch.

My cartridges last over a year. I have my backwashing iron+H2S filter right after the pressure tank. So there is not much for the cartridges to deal with. I bought a 3-filter assembly before deciding to go with the backwashing filter. It is before the softener. I leave the first housing empty now, and will probably switch to having two housings empty.

An autotransformer would work to drive your injection pump, but I don't know if there are any code issues.

An isolating transformer is some times used with 120 vac in and 120 vac out for safety isolating purposes. With ground fault interrupters available today, those probably can provide a lot of the safety that used to only be doable with the isolation transformer.

What is it that was supposed to regen daily? A softener, or something else?

Note that you can attach a garden hose thread (GHT or GH) pressure gauge on a boiler drain valve. You can also sample water out of a boiler drain valve.
 
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Taylorjm

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Thanks for the information on the tank. So that tank can be used with the water softener if I wanted or needed to increase the size? Are the softener controls matched to the tank size or would my 10x54 work with the same control but more media?
Is there an advantage with having a much larger tank for the softener? My small tank is supposed to regenerate daily. I have been manually regenerating it every 3 to 4 days right now.

Very interesting about the transformers! I see. The control transformer is completely separated between the primary and secondary where the autotransformer shares part of the coils between the primary and secondary. I think! The autotransformer would not be used in my system as it would cause problems with the ground and neutral?

The reason I am thinking about putting the filters between the pressure tank and softener is because it is my understanding that if i am injecting HP into the pressure tank then it will oxygenate the iron and some manganese and cause to precipitate. At that point instead of being completely dissolved in the water, it would be particles floating in the water and can be removed by filtration.

You mentioned beads breaking and passing through the water system. Perhaps I should also add a filter after the softener?

So that would be perhaps 2 filters between the pressure tank and softener and one after the softener.

Thanks
Charrie
I think you are on the right track with moving the pressure tank, adding a smaller hp storage tank ( I actually use a 2.5gal water storage bottle similar to the water cooler type from Walmart for about $8. I have bright orange duct tape on it and labels so nobody mistakes it for water) and remove the contact tank and install a 20x4.5 big blue filter before the softener. I use the clear housings so I can see when it needs changing. Reach is right, they weigh a ton when full of water. I drilled and tapped a 1/8” ball valve into the bottom of the housing but I’d find a plastic valve instead because screwing metal threads into plastic it’s hard to get a good seal because the brass pipe will distort the plastic. So now I open the valve and drain the filter housing into a bucket before changing the filters. Makes a huge difference. Much easier to change filters. Right now I use a 25/5 micron poly gradient sediment filter. It filters 25 microns on the outside down to 5 microns inside. I can see the rust on the outside of the filter so it must be bigger particles. Good luck.
 
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