Can I remove this contraption? Does the p-trap have to this low?

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USMC-JRH

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In-laws bought this house, under the sink is a mess. Is all of this necessary? Im pretty sure the ptrap has to be under the PVC out (Waste line, I think) but is it necessary for the drain to go all the way up and back down again or can I just go straight from the ptrap to the waste line?

I would just leave it but I have to replace the entire cabinet and figure while Im at it, I want to clean it up. Any help is appreciated
2.jpg

1.jpg
 

Reach4

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You should re-do it, obviously, and in the process add an AAV to meet code.
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Something like this, but if you don't create a new hole from the basement, the two 45s are not going to work for you if the drain line comes up under the disposal. Instead you would use a medium 90 for the lower bend, and a long 90 to connect to the sanitary tee.
 
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Sylvan

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As a USN Vet (65-68) I would throw it all overboard including the use of a cheater vent.

Start from scratch and find out if any home inspector did not pick this eye sore up?
 

USMC-JRH

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You should re-do it, obviously, and in the process add an AAV to meet code.
index.php

Something like this, but if you don't create a new hole from the basement, the two 45s are not going to work for you if the drain line comes up under the disposal. Instead you would use a medium 90 for the lower bend, and a long 90 to connect to the sanitary tee.

As a USN Vet (65-68) I would throw it all overboard including the use of a cheater vent.

Start from scratch and find out if any home inspector did not pick this eye sore up?
And if I threw it all, do I just tell my in-laws to go without a kitchen sink?
 

USMC-JRH

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You should re-do it, obviously, and in the process add an AAV to meet code.
index.php

Something like this, but if you don't create a new hole from the basement, the two 45s are not going to work for you if the drain line comes up under the disposal. Instead you would use a medium 90 for the lower bend, and a long 90 to connect to the sanitary tee.
I'll post my mock up of what you recommended above, adapted for my house, later tonight. I appreciate the help. There's actually another 8" below the floor of the cabinet and a foot cavity behind the cabinet. The drain goes all the way out there, but it is sloped in the wrong direction.
 

USMC-JRH

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This is what I came up with.
Screenshot 2024-12-14 233559.jpg


Im going to add some 1.5" to ensure 4" for the studor and to make it fit on the bottom and then tie the 2" into the existing drain (which is approx 6" below the cabinet floor and runs about 16"; I need to reslope it as its reversed, as in it slopes up towards the drain, so I'll slope it 1/8-1/4" per ft down). I chose to keep the clean out. Any feedback is welcomed. I'll post a pic when Im done.
 

Reach4

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Would what you propose clear the disposal? It looks like that cleanout would interfere with the trap arm. There are shorter cleanout plugs if it is close. Your general idea is good.

Instead of a the wye, how about a 45, and unscrew the AAV to use as a cleanout access. The AAV needs to be up at least 4 inches above the trap arm.
air-admittance-valve-install2.jpg
from https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/best-of-a-bad-s-trap-situation.84576/

Or if the two 45s don't fit, there would be two 90s as other choices.

Also, I am not sure the path from the santee down needs to be 2 inch or if 1.5 is enough.

The discharge tube does not have to come out at the angle it is shown, but maybe if the disposal is rotated a bit, things could work better.
 
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