See pics!! I need some help getting a rough in for a tub drain on a second floor of a condo. Initially there was a free standing capsule type shower of some sort and I'm trying to put in an alcove tub (wall will be where that bottom plate is) . My issue is that the 3" line that carries everything is running right where my tub drain will hit. I know just enough about plumbing to get myself in trouble so thought I'd see if there was a better way to do this! My initial thought is to just use a socket saver on the wye that was carrying the shower ptrap and run my new drain line and have my ptrap set to the side of the 3 inch and 45 up to where I need to catch the tub drain/overflow. Is my plan appropriate or is there a better way to try and do this?
Bathtub rough in help needed
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Thanks for the reply! The 3" pipe is the main stack that carries the toilet and the vanity sink. I want my trap to carry the tub drain/overflow assembly which will be centered in that small cutout of subfloor and come up next to the 2x4 bottom plate that will become the alcove wall (not built yet so I didn't have to work around it). The trap and inlet that are currently in the picture were from the old shower so I'm planning to just cut it all out but just tie into the wye that is already there for my new trap for the tub... Hopefully that makes sense!
1. The pipe at the top of your first photo seems to be a horizontal pipe that is smaller than 3 inches. Stack implies vertical.
2. To indicate where you want the inlet to the trap to be, may I suggest a blue or yellow circle or some other indicator.
2. To indicate where you want the inlet to the trap to be, may I suggest a blue or yellow circle or some other indicator.
1. The horizontal pipe is the 3" that i was calling the stack, my fault, it is the main waste line for that bathroom that carries the toilet, vanity sink, tub/shower.
2. See photo. Hopefully that helps show where I want stuff... thanks for the help!
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I suspect that the three inch pipe is not carrying the toilet waste in your photo. I suspect that the wye in your photo has a 3 inch output port and two smaller inlets. If that is a 2 inch pipe at the top of your photo carrying the lavatory waste, it will serve to wet vent the tub and downstream toilet.
I would think you would cut out the wye, and put in a wye with its side port on the right. Then feed that port with the trap that you position to be able to reach the blue circle but bypassing the existing pipe via using some pipe tilted at 45 degrees.
You would tie in the new wye with shielded couplings.
I would think you would cut out the wye, and put in a wye with its side port on the right. Then feed that port with the trap that you position to be able to reach the blue circle but bypassing the existing pipe via using some pipe tilted at 45 degrees.
You would tie in the new wye with shielded couplings.
Thanks for the response! That helps. I'm pretty sure that 3" is carrying the toilet. The toilet is upstream from where I'm wanting the new trap inlet and there is another 3x3x1.5 wye that i can see under the floor between the toilet and where i want the new trap inlet coming into that 3" that is headed towards the vanity. (See other Pic and I'll draw where things are that i can see. Also included pre-demo pic to give idea of room layout) the wye that is currently in the Pic with the old shower trap attached is a 3x3x2. I can't see where the toilet attaches to the 3" line but I assume it is vented through the roof at that point. But nevertheless, I think cutting out the old wye and putting in a new one with the inlet to the right is probably the best way to go, i was just trying to see if i could leave that old wye and just tap back into it and run the new trap on the left of the 3" and 45° up for the inlet instead of cutting it out and using a Furnco for a new wye with the port on the right. I appreciate your help!
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wwhitney
In the Trades
If you want to try the socket saver on the existing wye fitting, you could put the trap to the left of the 3" pipe in line (up down the page) with the blue circle, and then add two 45s to the tailpiece on the waste/overflow outlet to offset to the blue circle as the tailpiece rises. You'd have to check whether there is enough vertical rise available to get the horizontal offset you need.
If not, they do make side discharge waste/overflow assemblies, so you could have a short horizontal section and then 90 down into the trap. [You could also use a standard plastic waste/overflow kit with separate drain shoe, overflow shoe, and tee, and make a goofy arrangement with the tee barrel rising at a 45 degree angle, but that would make for an awkward overflow path, with a 90 in it.]
Or you could look at using a waste/overflow where the outlet is below the drain rather than below the overflow, and if you are really lucky with the locations and clearances, reuse the existing 2" trap.
If you do end up cutting in a new wye, for the 3" line to wet vent the tub (presuming that it is properly dry vented upstream), the trap outlet elevation needs to be just a bit above the 3" line elevation, with the 3x3x2 or 3x3x1-1/2 wye just a bit above horizontal. Where "just a bit" in each case means allowing for the 1/4" per foot fall on the horizontal trap arm.
Cheers, Wayne
If not, they do make side discharge waste/overflow assemblies, so you could have a short horizontal section and then 90 down into the trap. [You could also use a standard plastic waste/overflow kit with separate drain shoe, overflow shoe, and tee, and make a goofy arrangement with the tee barrel rising at a 45 degree angle, but that would make for an awkward overflow path, with a 90 in it.]
Or you could look at using a waste/overflow where the outlet is below the drain rather than below the overflow, and if you are really lucky with the locations and clearances, reuse the existing 2" trap.
If you do end up cutting in a new wye, for the 3" line to wet vent the tub (presuming that it is properly dry vented upstream), the trap outlet elevation needs to be just a bit above the 3" line elevation, with the 3x3x2 or 3x3x1-1/2 wye just a bit above horizontal. Where "just a bit" in each case means allowing for the 1/4" per foot fall on the horizontal trap arm.
Cheers, Wayne
Awesome, thanks Wayne, that makes sense! With what you're saying about cutting in a new wye, if i were to put it in closer to where I need the trap inlet you're just saying to rotate the fitting so that the 1.5" port isn't level but will still have the necessary fall once the trap outlet is connected, correct? Also if I'm able to save the current wye with the socket saver, where would be the best place to reduce to 1.5"? Should I run the trap in 2" or reduce to 1.5" with a bushing at the current 3x3x2 wye?
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Typically the toilet would be wet-vented by the lav.
wwhitney
In the Trades
Whatever fits. The obvious places to use a 2x1.5 bushing would be at the current wye, or at the trap inlet.
I guess all other things being equal, a 2" trap is better? Not sure.
Cheers, Wayne
wwhitney
In the Trades
Often, but obviously not in this case. But it would be worthwhile for the OP to look through the floor trusses to confirm there is a vent takeoff upstream on the 3" line.
Cheers, Wayne
Perfect, thanks Wayne
It is obvious to you that the toilet is not wet-vented by the lav?
wwhitney
In the Trades
Per the OP, the existing fixture connection order on the 3" line, starting upstream, is WC, shower, lav. That arrangement does not work as a wet vent if the only dry vent is on the lav.
Cheers, Wayne
I think we see what is/was the shower. OP thinks the lav connection is upstream. So it cannot be WC, shower, lav.
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Yeah everything seemed to work fine before. I'll see if I can look back in there further to see what else is there where the wc connects, but the best I can tell (and assume) is that the order on the 3" line is wc then lav then shower. Not sure if it is dry vented or not, I just assumed, but like I said, I know just enough to get myself in trouble! Thanks for all of y'all's help!
