Bad Idea to hook up water heater without a professional?

[Sbas]

Hello,

I have a 240v 30 gallon electric water heater. Plumbing or electrical has not been ran to it.

I got a few quotes for install and was in the price range of several hundreds of dollars. I'm running out of cash on my build, so is advised to not install it without a professional? I have yet to watch tutorials/look closely into this.

Is it really that complicated? What's involved besides connecting water supply, running water to it, and adjusting the temperature?

Thanks!

Shey

 

[Dj2]

"Is it really that complicated?"

No it's not, if you know what you're doing. What could go wrong? plenty.

Same as any other repair/install in your car, home, etc.
Same as hiring a professional, lawyer, dentist, doctor, etc.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Sbas]

Can less things go wrong on a tankless electric water heater? Thinking of swaping them out

 

[Reach4]

Can less things go wrong on a tankless electric water heater?

No.

 

[Terry]

Can less things go wrong on a tankless electric water heater? Thinking of swaping them out

Tankless on electric needs more power to keep up. A tank water heater heaters slower and then stores it for use.

 

[Stuff]

Part of the fee you pay is for the installer's experience. Once on site they can determine what needs done that you may not figure out until after installation when a problem occurs.

Replacing a tank can be straight-forward as you do a one-for-one replacement. Installing new means you need to figure out how the piping needs routed including the TPR discharge. For electrical you need the right type and size of cable. Also may need a disconnect if panel not within site. You may need an expansion tank and overflow pan. Local codes may require special treatment like earthquake straps.

Tankless: More complex as you need to figure out the valves for for being able to flush the system. Also how a TPR fits into it.

 

[Jadnashua]

Is this new construction or a replacement for an existing one? That might make a difference in how easy it is.

It also depends on where you live. For example, if you tried to do this in the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, you'd be breaking the law without a plumbing license!

Depending on where you live, and where the thing is being installed, you may need a tempering valve and a vacuum relief valve to be installed. Those add some to the complication of an install. IF it's being installed in a finished area (maybe a closet), you may want to do a bit more with the T&P drain than just running it down near the floor so if it opened, it didn't ruin a whole bunch of stuff.

If you have to run your own power, depending on where it is and how long of a run, $200 might be cheap...these days, just the circuit breaker and wire can get pricey.

The actual electrical hookup in the WH is just three leads: two power leads and the safety ground...not a big deal. At least with an electric WH, you don't have to deal with a chimney or flue. The actual water connections might be as easy as unscrewing the flexible supplies (it's probably a good idea to replace them at that time), then attaching new ones. Some places don't allow flexible supply lines, some require them, some allow either. If you have to solder, it can get a bit more skill related. Some places require earthquake straps to keep the thing from falling over and tearing up a bunch of stuff.

IOW, without knowing a bit more of your circumstances and your skill level along with what tools you may have, can't say if it's a good idea for you to consider this.

 

[Sbas]

Thanks for the input. This is a new install and I live in a tiny house on wheels so technically it does not have to be by code. But that does not mean I don't want it done right (and safe).

My uncle who is a general contractor said he has installed a few so I may have him do it.

Why do you say depending on where I live, I may need a t&p valve? WHat does that matter?

Would you mind very vaguely pointing out the steps of install?

I'm planning on having a overflow pan. Is an expansion tank needed as well? I don't ever want to worry about water leaking on floor so I was going to put the water heater on a raised platform, and have a bucket underneath the overflow plan.

 

[Dj2]

"Would you mind very vaguely pointing out the steps of install? "

You can find demo videos on youtube on WH installation. You can also watch your uncle, live, in action.

I would guess that in your city a T&P valve is required. Nowadays it is on every new WH sold.

Ask your uncle to run the T&P drain pipe to the outside. It's code in my city.

 

[Jadnashua]

An expansion tank is only technically required if you have a closed water system (i.e., one with a check valve or a pressure reduction valve, which has an internal check valve). It's not a bad idea to install one just in case your system becomes closed at some later date. Many utility companies are adding check valves if they don't exist, which protects the supply system. If that ever happens, without an expansion tank, the T&P valve will open (unless there's a leak that can relieve pressure). Depending on where the WH tank is, it may also require a vacuum breaker to help protect the tank from collapsing. Generally, that would require at least one outlet of the tank to be below the tank so it could try to siphon. The tanks are designed to handle pressure, but apply any vacuum to them, and they can collapse...a vacuum breaker should prevent that from happening.

 

[Leonard W. Mendoza]

No, it is not a bad idea to hook up water heater without professional.
Taking my point to fit the Water Heater easily without the help of professional. A very simple process to follow and you should have basic instruments for hook up.
Disconnect the gas line and water lines.
Detach the gas exhaust from the flue hat.
Set the new water heater in place.
Install the heat trap fittings.
Install water line connections.
Connect the gas supply line.
Test the gas line for leaks.
Light the pilot.
Turn the control knob on.

 

[Dj2]

No, it is not a bad idea to hook up water heater without professional.
Taking my point to fit the Water Heater easily without the help of professional. A very simple process to follow and you should have basic instruments for hook up.
Disconnect the gas line and water lines.
Detach the gas exhaust from the flue hat.
Set the new water heater in place.
Install the heat trap fittings.
Install water line connections.
Connect the gas supply line.
Test the gas line for leaks.
Light the pilot.
Turn the control knob on.

You skipped a few steps, most important is: Refill the WH with water before igniting the pilot.

When I replace a WH I also replace:
- The water flex connectors.
- The water supply shut off valve, if needed.
- I inspect the gas supply and gas valve carefully and replace if needed.
- Inspect and make alterations to the vent to fit the new WH, then seal around the connections with aluminum tape.
- Brace the WH.

However, the P.O has an electric WH.

 

[Stuff]

Some of you are missing the point that this is a new install with no previous tank. All new design so layout, sizing, and safety issues are new.

I would think a tiny house on wheels would have issues that a standard residential install would never see.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

Some of you are missing the point that this is a new install with no previous tank. All new design so layout, sizing, and safety issues are new.

I would think a tiny house on wheels would have issues that a standard residential install would never see.

I was thinking the same thing. The thing needs to be securely mounted to withstand the vibration and lateral forces that it might be subjected to when it is driving through the mountains. It should be wired to an adjacent disconnect switch and needs to be plumbed to easily drain to the exterior. It will be best to shut the heater off and drain it if the structure is being moved.

 

[Jadnashua]

Earthquake straps are probably a good idea if the home is potentially going to be moved along with flexible supply lines.