Advise for replacing galvanized pipe to painted copper water main.

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Bigealta

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Hi, first i'd like to express my condolences to Terry's Family and thank them for continuing this site. Terry will be greatly missed.

I'm looking for suggestions on how to deal with this very slow drip coming from a galvanized fitting screwed into a painted copper water main. The copper line feeds the whole house. The galvanized only goes to 2 outdoor spigots. There is a very slow drip from the galvanized fitting at the painted copper tee.

Also i'm fine with sweating copper but am not sure if the yellow paint on the pipe is lead based or not?

What would you guys do to fix this?. The galvanized run to the spigots is inside the finished ceiling so access is very poor.

Would be best to use some type of dielectic union close to the copper tee i would think. Thanks
 

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Bigealta

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The 2 shut off valves on both galvanized lines lead to 2 outdoor spigots, 1 in front of the house and the other in the back of the house.
 

Reach4

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I presume that the short horizontal nipple between the copper tee, and the galvanized elbow is also galvanized.

After getting needed parts, I would be looking to turn off the water before this. Then cut the galvanized, so you can rotate and ideally unscrew that nipple from the copper tee.

Is that horizontal copper pipe 1.125 OD (or 1.375) and is the nipple 0.840 OD?

If the nipple will not unscrew, then I suspect you will be replacing the tee and more. I am not plumber.
 

Bigealta

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Yes the short nipple is galvanized, or was. Now its just rusted steel.
The nipple is .84OD.
The copper is 3/4".

And the drip is from the top of the galvanized 90 elbow.
 

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Reach4

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Yes the short nipple is galvanized, or was. Now its just rusted steel.
The nipple is .84OD.
The copper is 3/4".

And the drip is from the top of the galvanized 90 elbow.
You could try cutting the big galvanized pipe, and try unscrewing that from the top of the elbow. Then put an adapter into that for your new copper or CPVC or PEX. You would like to not keep any more galvanized than you need to, but keeping the big elbow and the 1/2 inch nipple could be pragmatic to avoid having to change more.

If you have to do something with the copper, I would investigate paint remover.

I am surprised that Sharkbite slip joint tees are offered in many sizes, but not 1 inch. https://www.sharkbite.com/us/en/brass-push-to-connect/fittings/tees/brass-push-slip-tee
 

Fitter30

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John Gayewski

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You have some cool old copper and brass fitting there. That is old school. Those fitting have holes in them and were meant to be filled with solder through the holes. So yes that is very surely lead based solder. It's not going to hurt you just answering the lead part.

Good luck that close nipple likely won't come out without crushing.
 

Reach4

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If trying to unscrew that 1/2 inch nipple, I would first see if rotating the elbow breaks the nipple out of the copper. If the nipple unscrews from the elbow, then I would insert a 1/2 inch bolt into the nipple to prevent crushing as you grab. If too blocked to pass 1/2 inch, 12 mm is the next common size down.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...king-Pliers-with-MaxBite-48-22-3710/300109753 would be my tool of choice. I do better with that than a pipe wrench usually.

If all else fails, you can cut the big copper pipe, and insert a new tee. You might feed those outside spigots via a new valve with a drain on it. A pair of 1 inch copper repair couplings (no dimple) could be used to insert new stuff.

I think that nipple looks a bit longer than a close nipple.
 
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Jeff H Young

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I wouldnt worry about lead paint on a nipple . you worried about a code or getting poisoned
 

Reach4

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I was thinking the paint will interfere with the soldering or SharkByte, whether it is lead paint (seems unlikely), oil paint, or latex paint.
 

Bigealta

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I cut the 6" long galvanized pipe above the elbow. Then unscrewed the cut piece from the elbow fine. Then tried to unscrew the elbow and the nipple turned out some but broke inside the brass T. I was able to use a screw driver to break up the rusted pipe remains on the threads and clean the threads with wire brushes. I then screwed in a brass nipple and ball valve. I stopped there to test that the nipple would hold and that the treads in the T were still good and not damaged with my screwdriver Rust removal tool.
 

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Jeff H Young

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Nice job so far! the new ball valve good idea . your choice on how far back to go with the new probebly stop at the existing valves put male adapters and run copper between the 3 valves. unless you want to change those old 2 valves
 

Bigealta

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New copper, new ball valve, and new drain.
 

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Jeff H Young

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yep thats what I would have done added the valve that way if the other valves give trouble just close the good one
 
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