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I will say that the MH has a jet down in the bowl near the water...while the RP only has the 2 jets at the top. The RP also has a "pressure loss ring" at the inlet, that the MH doesn't have. I don't know it's purpose. I almost went with the MH, but chose the RP instead solely for the fact that...

Will the AAV between the lavs not serve the tub? If not, I'll just put an AAV after the tub trap, I had planned to do this in the first place but then for some reason I got the idea in my head that the AAV at the double fixture tee between the lavs would be all that is needed. Does the toilet...

Not exactly. the soil pipe is between the lavs, almost directly in front of the right lavatory ....I "could" have the lavs enter the soil pipe from the left(the same side of the kitchen) but it wouldn't be as convenient. The toilet has to hit the soil pipe straight on, there are brick peers in...

I didn't realize that, thank you. I presume there is no reason not to let the coupling do the reducing for me. I see a distinction for SV and XHCI, how do I know which one I need? There is an CI elbow with hubs under the dirt, but its just a straight pipe sticking up, I don't know if it was...

Everything will be 2 inch pipe after the traps, with a 2 inch drain and trap on the tub, except for the toilet waste pipe obviously. If there is no reason to use an all hub san tee w/ l+r inlets, I guess I'd just do that...my gut just told me it'd be better for the toilet to have its own...

So the low heel could act as choke point? This is a real concern? I thought since 2" pipe can handle 21-26 DFU and I'll have less than 15 on it total it'd be fine. Do I definitely not want to use an all hub san tee on the cast iron, with everything feeding into that? I'm not going to run any...

Thank you for the reply. Yes it just sticks straight out of the ground. I have wire brushed it, kind of figured that was good enough...should I bother with any kind of rust converter/inhibitor?(I know this is worrying about a very far off problem, but I don't want this thing to be leaking 25...

My wife has long hair, I'll keep that in mind.

Whats the best way to transition from cast iron soil pipe to pvc? 4 in to 3 in. Previously there was just a 4 in x 3 in flexible rubber coupling with 2 worm gear clamps on it, connected to a 3 inch L piece of 3 in PVC pipe(you still call this nipple? guess it could be eliminated with a street...

Also, what do you guys think about flat p-traps for tub/shower? I'm not working with much space there so it'd be convenient but if you say avoid I'll make a regular trap work.

Venting through the roof is not possible, but I've heard what I need, will just use a regular AAV and think I if I have enough vertical clearance will install under the (floating)vanity and keep it out of the wall for access and build a faux wall to hide everything. Any recommendations beyond...

I'm asking about this product specifically https://www.ipscorp.com/pdf/studor/STU021_TrapVent_web.pdf Does anyone have experience with it? When I first started looking at air admittance valves, I wanted to be sure to get ones that would never(hopefully) fail. So just wanted to know what you...

Thank you, exactly what I was looking for.

The original question was is the ability to used barbed fittings the only meaningful difference between CTS and IPS poly tube/pipe? You say the water companies use CTS because they prefer compression fittings....to me the ability to used barbed fittings was a plus. I was just looking for some...

I understand the confusion, but I am not talking about cross linked polyethylene, I am talking about high density polyethylene pipe. Commonly referred to as PE pipe, HDPE, or poly pipe. If I meant PEX I would have added the X. ----------- I would really love it if someone intimately familiar...

Not PEX, PE as in HDPE, poly. But I imagine your advice still applies, thank you, I will be sure to take mind of that. I did consider going with PEX, but it gets exponentially more expensive above 1"...its a 1.5 bathroom house with efficient(relatively) appliances, so I imagine I could have...

PE comes in both IPS and CTS. The most obvious difference, as you've also referenced, is that using IPS allows for the use of barbed fittings while CTS PE tubing(at least in these sizes) does not. Is that the only difference? Assuming pressure ratings is the same on each(or at least high enough...

Running a new line from meter, will be using PE pipe/tubing, ~85ft run, will either be using either 1 1/4" or 1 1/2"...should I use pipe or tubing? Being able to used barbed fittings and worm gear clamps is attractive, but from what I've read CTS is the more conventional choice in this...

Or, if it won't work(or even if it would) can someone recommend an inexpensive diverter valve suitable for potable water that can be had for a similar price to a cheap, simple TS valve? I don't know the rules about sourcing and pricing on the forum so feel free to PM me if needed.

With a T fitting on the cold inlet, and the hot inlet capped off. or The same supply line running to both inlet ports. And setting the "mix temp" on the TS valve to what you want the diverter temp to be? A simple TS valve is MUCH cheaper than a diverter valve for some reason...why wouldn't...