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I already had one break due to insufficient support and allowing it to just overhang on the front. A tenant learned back against it and it broke. There's definitely a large gap in the front that doesn't make any contact with the top of the vanity.

The vanity is 24" wide by 21" deep. The top is 25" wide by 22" deep. The vanity is set in a corner so the top overhangs one side by 1"+ and the front by 1"+. The top needs to be supported pretty much all the way to the edge. My plan is to rip 1x material that will serve as stable base for the...

Now I understand what you meant. I thought you were saying I needed to add a dry vent to complete the design. But you're saying the dry vent section only needs to be 1 1/2". I labeled it "wet vent" since it becomes a wet vent below the lav drain, but where I labeled it it's definitely dry...

Thanks for your input. Why is a dry vent needed in addition to the wet vent? This diagram is similar to one out of the IPC except in that example there is a horizontal main line rather than a vertical stack.

This layout is for a small bathroom in an apartment with a garage underneath. Is this a good plumbing design that meets code (I've attempted to do so)? Or would it be better to tie the tub drain in closer to the 3" vertical stack? Any other suggestions?

Sounds like great advice. Thanks! Not sure if the plumbing supply house I go to carries Mission, but I assume any quality shielded stainless steel band for CI to PVC should work. And yeah, I will install a cleanout.

I am rehabbing one of my apartments that sits above a garage and I have a situation where the a 4" cast iron soil stack in a garage has been cut flush with the concrete floor. The stack was already broken at garage floor level and therefore needed to be replaced. Unfortunately, since it was...

I sort of did that as well. I notched it out using an oscillating tool and then used a 5/16 spade bit to clear out some material. I then used a small chisel to clear out the rest.

I ended up cutting and chiseling out the bottom layer of countertop in 3 spots, the spots where the clips would grab onto in the front. Additionally, I had to cut down the clip bolts to about 2/3 the size in order to maneuver them into position and allow enough clearance for the nut tightening...

I'm installing a new Moen drop in sink. The countertop has been cut out according to the instructions. The issue is that there is no place in the front where the clips can grab onto (see photo). After cutting, the countertop just so happens to be flush with the cabinet top rail in the front...

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I haven't seen anything about anchoring these PEX lines to anything during the course of my research. I have removed them in the past when doing a rehab and don't recall them being "anchored". Can you explain what you mean by being anchored? I get your point though. I just don't know the...

The PEX lines come with the plastic ferrule already slipped onto the line. The barcode tag is attached to the line so the ferrule doesn't slip off until the customer removes the tag prior to installation.

Thanks for your advice. I definitely see your point. However, in my situation I need at least some 20" and 24" supply lines which cost almost $9 at HD. And since I have so many to do if I purchase the PEX lines in bulk (25) they are only $1.12 a piece. But yes, I will have to purchase some nuts...

I don't see any reason to if the PEX is installed properly. SS doesn't appear to be any more reliable than PEX tubing for supply lines.

Believe it or not I couldn't find any good info on this online. It's probably such basic knowledge to most plumbers, but as a DIY'er who hasn't worked with this type of supply line before, I want to be 100% sure I'm using the correct parts. Anyway, I am rehabbing 4 of my apartments over the next...