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I should clarify: I don't mean removing the existing metal plug. I want to put something over it to hide it.

This is inside a sink basin made of plastic (KraftMaid Core Guard). Is there some kind of spherical plastic cap that would fit over this?

Yes indeed! The screw holes from the previously installed cabinets are still in the wall. I am using those as a partial reference.

I would need to buy two of these, right? One for the two hot conductors and one for the fused neutral/ground? Would a 3-port work just as well?

That's good hearing! These are semi-custom KraftMaid cabinets, all plywood construction. Unbelievably, the printed installation instructions that came with the cabinets (and posted on the Kraft Maid website) say to drill 7/32" pilot holes into the studs to mount the wall cabinets using the...

Oh, as an aside, not to hijack my own thread ( :rolleyes: ), I discovered over the weekend that we have only three accessible studs to hang two wall cabinets -- a 33 inch wide cabinet and a 21 inch wide cabinet. I will be hanging the bigger cabinet on two studs, of course, and joining the face...

Thanks to you both. My local hardwire store sells the purple wire nuts, but I would strongly prefer to use the Polaris connectors with a bigger box. I hope everything fits, as I have minimal clearance with the cabinet drawer fully closed. We shall see.... If using Polaris connectors, is there...

I have a split bus. There is no main breaker.

Alright, the power company has scheduled a temporary shutoff in a few weeks so I can install my GFCI breaker. In the meantime, I have a few loose ends I'm trying to figure out. Any suggestions would be appreciated! The cabinet manufacturer recommends installing the electrical box near the...

Therein lies the rub, as they say. I've got enough problems sanding drywall in a semi-working kitchen with 4 kiddos. LOL. The Siemens 40 amp, 2 pole, 240/120 volt GFCI breaker is only about $80.

Now I get it. This is the best explanation I've read in the past 72 hours (and I've read a lot of them! haha).

Very interesting. AI is a scary thing. :rolleyes: Almost as scary as electricity!

We don't have the oven yet. Everything has been set back due to electrical and other issues. With so many newer ovens with useless screens and gadgets, seems I'd be hard-pressed to find a straight 240 volt double oven. But I'm not sure what that would solve? Wouldn't the oven chassis still be...

I know what you're going to say: the box is not well placed, and I would agree with you. :confused:

Agreed. I tried doing just that when I consolidated the dishwasher and garbage disposal (these are on separate 20 amp circuits, but the Romex was protruding from the drywall), but I could not locate the first receptacle in either circuit! I did find a black wire in one of the outlets that was...

Good idea, cheap insurance. Assuming it's compatible, what are your thoughts on using a GFCI breaker?

Thanks, bigb56! Very helpful. Yes, I am aware of the upper bus being energized. I will give some more though to adding a new 4-wire circuit as you suggest.

Hi Wayne, Thanks for the correction. Yes, I suppose it is code compliant after all, so I might just leave well enough alone. When I first noticed this issue, I became worried about the "potential" risks and comments, perhaps exaggerated, by electricians on the Internet. Maybe it's not really a...

Thank you, I will check these links out! Update: Yes, those older threads are on point. Reach4, your past suggestion about installing a 40 amp GFCI breaker is intriguing. That would obviously be a simple solution. If I did that, I presume I would still need to bond the EGC from the oven chassis...

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