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It's after the meter and before the main shutoff inside the house. I can't tell what the pipe material is before the meter since it's buried. Tyler

Hey, We moved into our house (built in 1986) a year ago, and a couple months ago I was on here trying to figure out what material the supply line coming into my house is made of, given that I could only see about 8" of it with no markings before it transitions to copper. I was helping a...

I would assume the meter? The meter is out in the yard about 20' away in a water meter pit with gravel and mud all around the meter. The connections from the meter go down vertically instead of horizontally, so I can't really see anything except the meter body without some major digging. And I...

Maybe? Some of the similar ones I've seen appear to have a rubber ring (not o-ring) to compression seal the connection, so I'd be nervous about that not being able to reseal after 40 years. I think I'd only be comfy doing it if I had a spare in hand just in case. I did pick up a Sharkbite...

That seems like it'd be nice! Is there any way to tell without taking it apart, given the lack of labels on the short piece I can see? I just ran over to a plumbing supply place, and they didn't seem to carry what I needed, but they mentioned that it might be a flo-lock connector. They also...

Gotcha. Sounds like it's worth testing. But the two remedies seem like they'd be either replacing all the copper pipes in the house with PEX, or installing a whole-house pH correction near the source, correct? The first seems cost prohibitive. What about the second? Given that the existing...

Well, at least based on my quick method of getting a pH approximately 6.5, I'm at the low end of the acceptable range. I appreciate the lead on getting a more accurate tester for the future. I would assume that if I do future measurements and this seems to be a problem, installing a remedy would...

I have some strips for checking water in a hot tub. Based on the visual color matching on those, the house water is roughly 6.5. Maybe a hair lower, depending on how you squint at it, but not below 6.2. I was able to get some pictures of the underside of that connector. It says 1" SDR-9 on that...

Hey, I'm replacing some valves (PRV and shutoff) near the service entrance to my house. Given that the copper is 40 years old (built in 1986), some houses of this vintage in the county are seeing pin-hole leaks, and we plan to finish the basement in the near-ish future, I was going to replace...

So, along the lines of your suggestions, I tried again with an extra wrap of tape (I don't seem to have pipe compound on hand...I thought I did, but it might have gotten lost in a recent move). It worked! I'm glad I have that another shot before attempting to sweat the joint. Thanks for the...

Yeah, I'm pretty careful about wrapping in the right direction. It's a bit hard to verify now though. I'm leaning toward just removing the copper threads and sweating a new piece on, as much as I don't like doing that near the plastic. But I'm not sure I trust that a new threaded piece will do...

I'm installing a washing machine supply as part of a renovation. The connection is pipe threads, and I've used three wraps of Teflon tape. With water pressure applied, there's a small leak at the threads (at the level of dabbing it away with a paper towel every 30 seconds). Usually in a...

Ok, thanks for the info. So, if I add a vent to the washer line, connecting to the other vent as you drew (at least 6" above the flood rim), whether in the attic or higher in the wall, I should be good? And the double fixture connection at point B is ok? Thanks for the advise on stud shoes. I...

I'm in Virginia, so I believe we're under IPC. 1. Great 2 and 3. Whoever installed this originally compromised 5 studs in a row by cutting holes too big. I'm trying to reinforce them, but am not terribly eager to put more big holes in them, if possible. So if I need to stack santees or run an...

I'm redoing some plumbing and want to make sure I'm using the right connections. The previous installation did not have the right ones. See the attached picture. There will be a washing machine and lavatory on a 2" line on the left, and a single lavatory on the right, all connecting at a...

Thanks for the confirmation. Is the Wilkins 70XL a good choice for the replacement? Also, the current one is single union. Is it worth using double union? I might take the opportunity to modify some of the other plumbing in that area anyway. Tyler

Hey, We're about to move into a new house, and I'm trying to do some projects at the new place before we actually move. The seller made some comments about loving the high water pressure, which of course meant it probably needed checking. Incoming water from the street is 100 psi. Pressure...

Hey all, We're doing a kitchen remodel at the moment, and I'm looking for a replacement for our current kitchen faucet. We have had the Moen Camerist (7545W) for years and love it, especially for the gentle spray (and pause) feature, which we like for rinsing dishes. Newer version of the...

Hey all, This seems like a novice question. Some searching didn't reveal an answer, so I thought I'd ask... I'm installing a Kohler Villager and am looking for a good drain/overflow to put on it. Is there any issue going with a brand other than Kohler? I think I'd seen somewhere that the...

Ok, I snapped a few pictures. First is of a nearby joint. Second is the elbow I already replaced. You can see gaps where there appears to be no glue/cement in the joint. Third is the joint I reglued/recemented tonight. When I reglued the joint tonight, I used a liberal amount of primer and...