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That's the main difference an experienced plumber like you can tell if it's tight and leak free, and a novice like me have to rely on other means to make sure the joint behind the wall is water tight. I found a set of internal wrenches by HDX at the big box store and decided to try it. I was...

It must be a regional thing...I haven't seen a plumber that doesn't seal the hole in the wall after the inside joint has been tightened down in a wet area. Yes under the sink in kitchen and bath they just cover the hole with escutcheons and be done with it. But in the tiled area in showers and...

I know you can do it the way you described, but the way I prefer to do a stubout, whether it's for a shower arm, a tub spout or a shutoff valve and in this case the hand shower elbow, it needs the connection inside the wall to be completed first before I do the outer connection. These are the...

Difficult to answer this question because I don't think "hand tight" is the same when you have a nipple sticking out of the wall 4" where you can get a good grip on it by hand, but in my case, this threaded end is sticking out say not even an inch so I can't get a good grip on it to "normal hand...

brass nipple yes, the internal wrenches in different sizes. I can get a better "bite" by cocking the internal wrench but not sure if that's a good idea. One idea I have is to put some pipe dope on the threads going into the back of the wall drop ear 90, but no dope on the female adapter in the...

amazing 20 year old thread! I use dope only for metal to metal and tape only plastic to plastic.

I used an internal pipe wrench but kept slipping, not sure the internal wrench is giving enough torque. Do you think a female adapter will tighten it better? Assuming I can remove the female adapter afterwards without undoing the drop ear joint behind the wall?

I need to install a wall connection for a hand shower, it is basically a fancy elbow with a nice escutcheon with a 1/2" female connection at the wall. The installation manual calls for a 1/2" male nipple extended 5/8" past the finished wall. Assuming I have the correct length nipple for this...

I am replacing a double his/her sinks with a single sink in the bathroom. Therefore one of the drains is no longer needed. I would like to cap it, but want to keep the option open to use it if necessary, for example, as an access point to snake the line without needing to take the sink's trap...

The install instructions said ti make sure all three points touch. I am still a bit off and I already feel the nuts are too tight in a sense I heard the porcelain protesting as I tightened with a wrench and I don't dare continuing. I wonder if I should remove the tank and take out the flush...

I am in the process of installing the 2 piece Toto CST776CSFG#01 toilet and I have two quick questions. (1) I had installed older models of the Toto Drake and I thought the outlet at the bottom is larger. This hole at the bottom of the bowl is about 2 inches, did the older models have larger...

I have an older home (1965) down here in South Florida for rental and I recently had a tenant change over so I decided to trace what circuit goes where. I found one 20A circuit breaker that seems to be have too many devices on it. Kitchen window light (40W) Car port light (40W) Dining...

I understand your point on safety, that's why I am trying to rectify this situation - or else I would just close the box and forget about it, since it's not causing a problem at this moment. I don't want any strain to the wire to cause it to pull loose of the wire nut and cause a short in the...

I think the heat required to melt solder is going to cause adjacent wire insulation to melt too. Crimping connectors may be one option, will have to see if I have enough room for a proper crimp to be applied. I have to actually put the crimper inside the box in order to orient it properly for...

Not in my case. The upstream junction box is a long way away and quite congested with old solid copper wires. There must be a bunch of twists and turns as I don't seem to be able to pull on the wire from the other end. Sometimes solid copper wires get tangled up in elbows and you can't...

I would prefer to replace the wire as well but I am not able to think of a way to do it without a lot of trouble. This particular box is a four gang metal box embedded in a eight inch thick concrete wall. There are four EMT conduits that comes down to connect to it from behind the box, the...

I will check out the Ideal connector. As far as crimping, the one I referenced above does not need to be crimped. According to instructions you "bundle" the wire together, slide the connector over it. The heat gun will melt the preflux solder inside the sleeve and cause it to melt and solder...

I thought about those, but the wire I have is stranded. What I am concerned is previously when I used these in downlight installations, these didn't work too well for stranded wires, and end up pushing in half way and bent the wire. Seem they work better for solid copper wires. I have noticed...

I normally use wire nuts to splice inside a box. However I have one situation I think butt splice may be justified. I have a #12 stranded copper wire protruding barely 1.5" from the knock out hole inside the box. The previous owner had twisted a wire nut to it and an additional 8" piece...