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PEX A expansion systems can be tricky, especially when transitioning from a crimp system. While PEX A offers flexibility and full-flow fittings, it can be sensitive to fitting tools and technique. Leaks often occur if the expansion tool isn't calibrated properly or pressure isn’t consistent. In...

Your concerns are valid—PEX stubouts don’t have the same rigid feel as copper, which can make them seem less durable, especially when replacing angle stops. However, properly installed brass PEX stubouts or PEX-to-copper stubouts can provide the best of both worlds. Many plumbers use a copper...

Using a wire-pulling lubricant or an NSF-approved water-based lubricant is a good idea when feeding 1” poly through your existing 1.5” Uponor PEX sleeve, as it reduces friction and makes the process smoother. Since this section runs under your driveway, you want to avoid excessive force that...

Brushed brass PEX-compatible toilet supply valves are harder to find compared to chrome and nickel, but you do have options. One approach is to use a standard brass or lead-free brass PEX valve and pair it with a brushed brass supply line and escutcheon plate to achieve a consistent look. Some...

It sounds like you’re dealing with a minor leak at the drop ear elbow where the drop arm connects to your PEX line. While PEX connections typically rely on crimp or clamp fittings, the drop ear elbow usually has female threaded connections that require a proper seal. You should use Teflon tape...

The key is keeping the PEX inside the conditioned space as much as possible. Mount it flush against the backside of the interior wall covering and secure it with straps to keep it centered in the stud bay. All insulation should be between the PEX and the block wall, meaning there should be...

That’s a tough situation. If your PEX pipe showed stress fractures and discoloration, it’s possible that high chlorine levels, UV exposure before installation, or pressure fluctuations contributed to its failure. Since PEX can degrade over time, especially with crimped fittings or poor...

Given that your house already has 80 psi, a 1/2” PEX-A line could work, but it’s not ideal for a 60-foot underground run, especially if you ever plan to use the hose bib for anything beyond occasional light use. 3/4” PEX-A or poly would ensure better volume and future flexibility, especially if...

A 1 PSI drop over 24 hours is minor, but it's worth investigating before closing up walls. While a slow air pressure loss often indicates a very small leak, it can also be due to temperature fluctuations affecting air density or even micro-seepage through seals that might not show up under water...

One option to keep the PEX protected is to install an escutcheon plate or a wall flange around the area where the PEX exits the wall. You can transition to copper immediately after the PEX leaves the wall using a brass PEX-to-copper fitting, then secure the copper piping to the wall with pipe...

You can use PEX A with a Viega PEX B manifold by crimping with a copper ring, but it’s not ideal. PEX A is designed for expansion fittings, which create a stronger seal. A PEX A-compatible manifold would be better. As for plastic vs copper manifolds, plastic is corrosion-resistant, lightweight...

Your layout seems okay! One thing to watch out for is thermal expansion—those long PEX runs can expand and contract, so make sure there’s a bit of slack or use expansion loops to handle it. Also, since this is for a shower, check that the valve is properly supported and level to avoid any...

It sounds like you've done a great job with your installation, but even a slight gap between the flange and the toilet can lead to a slow leak over time. Since the grout is dark gray, moisture stains can be tricky to spot, so one way to test for a slow leak is to place a few layers of toilet...

For a full re-pipe using PEX-B, your plan to go with ¾" trunk lines and ½" branches makes sense and should provide solid water pressure throughout the house. When transitioning from your black poly pipe, a barbed insert fitting with stainless steel clamps or a compression adapter can create a...

PEX-A is a solid choice for hot water systems. The expansion tool is necessary because PEX-A connections rely on expanding the tubing to insert the fitting. As the tube contracts, it creates a strong seal without needing crimp rings. Compression fittings are another option, but they’re not as...

When running PEX through joists for heating, it’s important to allow for some movement due to thermal expansion. The supports should not be tight; snug or slightly loose is ideal. This gives the PEX enough room to expand and contract as it heats and cools, minimizing noise from rubbing or...