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Thank you for the clarification on the distance. Yes, the santee is not correct in the picture. I was out of 2"x2"x2" santee so I stuck a 2"x2"x1.5" in quick just for the picture. It will have a 2" vent and 2" drain when glued.

I have seen some pictures showing a min of 6in needed from p-trap and the vent T on a washer drain. See Pic. However, I have not seen the actual code stating this. Is this correct(picture) or do I need to extend the arm a min. of 6in into the next stud bay?

This was just a home buyers inspector and he didn't hit me for any of the work I had done, just some work that the previous owner either had done or most likely did themselves, plumbing being one of them. What would need installed for the trap/cleanout to be "code'? A threaded fully removable...

Reach4, I have installed a cleanout on the tub trap. Would you recommend something different than what is pictured here? Again, this is not glued yet so changes are easy.

The previous picture with the short trap arm distance was like 2 3/4. So, really close to the 3in. However if I am going to redo it, I would rather do it the right way rather than the "will probably be fine way". The AAV is accessible, just out of view, and threads in so it is replaceable...

Attempt 2. Hadnt glued it yet so changing it was easy. The vent pipe is about 4-5in away

How does this look? The pipe going up goes to the AAV

Thank you Wayne! I believe I follow what needs to be done.

I have two AAV(Air Admittance Valve) that when the inspector for buying my property noted that " The drain pipe at the sink had an "S" trap. Water filling the downstream vertical portion of the "S" trap will cause syphoning and loss of trap seals. Trap seals must be maintained to prevent sewer...