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going to look. chlorine generator can onlly be plugged in one way. Lights are red and yellow. with old control board, the yellow light would be on dimly but on with occasional flickering. and the alarm would sound....now after regenerationwith the used control board, the alarm sound is...

The YELLOW light with the red light indicates a failed chlorine regeneration signal and the unit is still in regeneration....from manual........ How is this even possable as the unit stops at the end of regeneration yet lights are yellow and red.

got the control board installed. Now the regen lights work. after regen it has the yellow and red lights lit. Used to show a green light but now, just yellow and red. It does use salt so I dont even know how it knows somethings not right. Makes me think something failed and needs attention...

so the next question is do I rebed itj with zeolite? or screw it and just go with hard water. new water softeners are 3 grand now??? would think I could rebed it myself but dont yet know that or if zeolite is available.

so the next question is do I rebed itj with zeolite? or screw it and just go with hard water. new water softeners are 3 grand now??? would think I could rebed it myself but dont yet know that or if zeolite is available.

I have the sanitizer series with chlorine generator and zeolite resin put in in 2008. waters not real soft anymore. Thinking about replacing the resin myself. Suggested cost of people to do it that are now Culligan and were water pro when I bought it said 500 bucks just to replace the resin...

I dont think it said silicone grease. Just looked at tube and it says plumbers grease faucet and valve, waterproof. So I have no idea what to do.

yes kitchen sink.......two separate 1/4 turn knobs. I thought instead of the 1 handle type for hot and cold that I would try the separate knob/valve style. The plus side is it has a sprayer and a tall 180 degree spigot sorta like the commercial ones, only the hot will only not rubber squeak...

I keep on greasing the hot water valve but it doesnt last long yet the cold water knob doesnt do this. Is there a proper grease for this? I have well water and a water rite sanitizer series softener thats 12 years old. what can I do to get this valve to stop the rubbery squeak sound when the...

No, all metal fittings used from csv to main house line. When I teflon taped oil pipe threads into my oil pump on my vw bus 1/4 size pipe, the teflon tape since I wasnt used to it, caused me to overtighten the pipes into the pump and crack it due to the lubricating properties of the tape...

Well I was about to give it all another turn when I noticed the usuall water pipe condensation sweat. My tank is screwed into the bottom of the csv. So, with the water pipe being cold, it sweats, and drips on the tank. I need to make that tank is on top of everything to keep it from rusting...

I thought about it. NOt sure if the sides of the valve will split or not. I'll try that tomorrow.

well they werent kidding when they said stainless leaks. all the fittings on the cyclestop valve leak a tiny bit. Just very slow drips forming. Not a constant drip, takes a while for the next drip to drop off. Used teflon tape liberally. Thinking IM going to leave it alone for a while. Its...

so, taking a shower, it works with 50 psi hold pressure. turning on the heavy duty garden hose at the well, will make it drop momentarily then picks back up to the hold pressure. Bottom line is if I want no pressure drops no matter what I turn on within reason, this bladder tank is too small...

Ok then, I have the non Lever square d switch also. Its only 2 years old. same age as the failed well x troll tank. I will just throw on the non lever switch.

what does trying it at 30 vs 38 psi do? I know normal psi for a tank is like 2 to 3 psi below cut in pressure . Is the 38 standard 40/60 psi just a starting point? Pros and cons? Does the bladder in the tank stretch more at 30 cycle wise? Yes, its normal operation since day 1.......cut in...

I wonder if I need to just ditch the low pressure cutout of the square d switch and use my non lever one (2 years old)

just installed. pressure drops off and goes to zero and stays there due to square D low pressure switch cutout. pump does kick on but its soft start. so it takes 3 secondish. IM wondering if the super small tank is not enough to pad the time between 44 psi kick on and the time the pump starts.

she found one of those super long barbed fittings at local plumbing supply....but only 1.I might just have to get that store to get more in.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-1-in-Brass-Insert-Coupling-POLYBIC1/300850915#product-overview