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Just a thought = I've noted on my faucet that as the age of the aerators on the faucet increases ( and they slowly become "clogged" ) they hold back residual water longer. I change mine out every few months.

Regarding the CSV1A ...... You will not regret the investment.

Just to mention ..... the OP stated he's on a well and expansion tanks are not usually installed because the well system pressure tank serves the same purpose. And two items I will always do in the future on new heaters is break the factory seal on the anode rod before installation so it can be...

Just a couple inputs: Learn how the heater functions ( the two elements are never on at the same time. ) The thermostats have a reset button on them. (It sounds like only one of your elements is heating) Below is an excellent source of info...

mr.T ...... The biggest change I noted with the 3/4 ball drain was during my yearly maintenance on our 40 gal. electric. When it used to take about 45 minutes to drain off the 40 gallons it is now under 15. ( I use a wet vac to remove the tank sediment through the lower element hole )

Just to mention......... The factory drain valves are usually a compression type that are both slow and ineffective for flushing sediment. I replace mine with 3/4 ball valves made for flushing ( under $30. )

Sorry Valveman ...... I think the OP is looking to change the pump to submersible

( Sorry --- I now see the OP is considering changing the pump type )

If the hose used is flexible you are able to reach the circumference around the bottom of the tank. The heater hose I use just wedges into the vac end. Changing the drain valve is a great idea ..... especially when you drain the unit ......... cuts the time by 2/3rds. And my personal experience...

A wet vac with a length of heater hose lets you suck out all the sediment through the lower element hole. A flashlight through the same hole lets you inspect the condition of the anode rod. I service our electric heater at least once per year by vacuuming out the sediment & replacing both elements.

Just to mention an item to check though it may not cause your described issues ............. check the 1/4 nipple between your pressure tank T and the switch. They become clogged with sediment and create erratic operation ....... I have replaced mine twice over the years.

I would suspect condensation because of a personal experience we had several years ago. Our kitchen had a stove vent through the roof of metal material that went through the cold space between the ceiling and roof. ( single story) And then one day I noticed the roof looked like it was buckling...

As suggested on the "other" forum ................. the air tank (empty) should be set a couple psi lower than the switch on pressure. You stated the switch was a 30/50 and the tank was set in the 40's

Just to mention ..... as Reach4 stated ........ a heat gun is your best tool when working with barbed fittings ........ You won't believe the difference. With a little heat making the piping more malleable makes the barbed fittings much easier to remove. Just use caution not to overheat to the...

If there is a check valve that prevents back flow out of your home back into the public water system then an expansion tank may be needed at your heater. Any pressure created needs someplace to go ..... that's why many places require an expansion tank.

I understand your point of view about "new" because that's essentially what I did. New pump, new pressure tank with the associated components and new water heater. I was faced with equipment that had been in service for a few decades and a leaking check valve at the pump ............. all in...

And just to add .... if I were in your position everything would be contingent on the pressure tank. If it holds pressure without the pump cycling without water being used .......... I would then shut the power off and inspect the contacts on the switch myself. ( Remember that a leaking check...

Just a couple observations from another novice that's replaced his entire system recently. The pressure tank appears to be reasonably new ...... perhaps replaced ? First check to see what the "actual" setting are on the switch. Have someone use water and watch the pressure gauge to see if it...

Just a couple observations from a novice that has replaced his electric heater a couple times ........ On #1 ---- Looks OK to me. Pex handles normal temps of 130 degrees. On # 2 - Heaters come with 3/4 nipples for the hot and cold ...... some makers have very short nipples and they should be...