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I don't think a main line should need snaking as preventative maintenance, that is just extending the inevitable replacement. I've owned old houses for 25 years and never needed to snake my main.

I've been known to buy screwdrivers at Wal-Mart to do stuff like that.

As someone who really hates using rain showers, I hope you mount it offset or at least provide a shutoff and another side showerhead.

I have an older Delta valve mounted that way in my tub/shower at my house and I really like it that way because it puts the shower controls at a useful height. At some point if the pipe is too long the flow will be too low and it will make the shower head dribble while the tub spout is in...

How about just using two valves? It's kind of nice to be able to separately control temperature for each stream, kind of like the old GM Bi-Level heater control.

You could plumb in a second switch set to higher limits and wire it in series.

You can't have a flow restriction anywhere on the spout line or the shower head will dribble. There are plenty of drop ear pex elbows commonly available, but you would have to make sure the pex and it's adapters were non restrictive enough to match copper or brass 1/2" npt. It's going to cost...

Did the pipe slip down during installation?

It sounds to me like you have too many traps in the sink. Only one trap should ever be in a line, so you either need to remove the U trap or merge the two lines from the sink bowls before the other trap. It sounds like your plumbing has some design problems.

I have a foldable engine hoist that I've used to move a couple tubs, move a wood stove, and pull small stumps and fence posts out of the ground. It's a pretty useful tool.

I have an RV that I usually just drain the pipes and put antifreeze in the traps but sometimes don't get to it before a cold snap. The only components I've lost to freezing are the cheap plastic RV faucets because they tend to have complicated passages and don't leave any room for expansion.

Ignoring the check valve, I would just add a tee and gauge on the house side of all the valves.

I have an Insinkerator and a farmhouse sink... I had no installation issues and plenty of thread. My sink is about 5/8" thick at the drain holes.

If you don't have any other vents, an AAV isn't going to fix this. You need at least one truly atmospheric vent in the system to allow positive pressure to get out. AAV only relieves vacuum, not pressure.

Hello, The product you show on the home depot link should be able to be carefully trimmed to fit your space. I have a similar multi-piece surround in my upstairs bathroom where there is a knee wall, and I carefully diagonally trimmed the corner to fit the roof line using a sharp utility knife, a...

Panasonic makes a nice retrofit fan if you decide to remove the housing. But, like others said, most of them are installed before the drywall.

I don't think an aav is going to help you here, if the splurt and gurgle is coming from positive pressure of a slug of water from upstairs. Aav only relieves vacuum, not pressure. I think you need a full vent out the roof or a revent above the 3rd floor to completely fix this.

I would get rid of the neck down to 3/4", which isn't going to increase by pressure at all, and add a pressure booster pump. If you need more flow in short bursts, add a pressure tank and check valve after the booster. Your low flow out the hose is just coming from the fact that the pressure is...

It's actually beneficial to have trapped air, it helps reduce water hammer. Old practice before diaphragm type hammer arrestors were available was to leave short vertical stubs in the wall on purpose. It doesn't work after a while because the air gets reabsorbed back into the water.

Do you have a sump pump? Check that too.