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There are heads designed for high water temperatures. The 2750 would be your best choice. Mix that with a vinyl Esther tank, you might do ok,

Twin alternating is a good solution, see my recommendation chart below.

Thanks, I have been travelling extensively as the business grows. Not too much time for forum work. Plus the new house... I installed a whole house RO, amazing! I can finally keep my pool water under control. Vynilester tanks can handle up to 150F, SS tanks can go higher.

We do heat sanitizing of the carbon tank by running water in the 160-180F range through it but the cost is way outside the residential range. We do this commercially only. A few suggestions, if you have bacterial issues, switch to chlorine. H2o2 can cause problems since the h2o2 reverts to...

Excellent! Softeners are ion exchange, meaning they remove an ion and exchange it for another. Calcium and magnesium are exchanged for sodium. A TDS meter is not a real test device. You need a tester that specifically differentiates between hardness and softness. Hach 5B is my recommendation.

Strange and not well known. Variable brining is an excellent alternative to twin alternating for high hardness applications. This is not as good as twin alternating in extremely high use applications, but for residential applications it tends to be much better that twin alternating systems due...

As you can tell by the (lack of) responses, if your budget allows, replace the unit with a good unit. When I was a field technician for 25 years, my company would not touch that unit. Either replace or lose the job. That unit is typically not worth repairing. it is a disposable unit.

Post a picture of where you would turn off the water if a burst pipe were to occur.

Hooking up a softener backwards can end badly. Resin pushing through the top diffuser, flooding the house with resin... not fun to fix. Sadly I did this too my own dads house 25 years ago, it took several years before the top diffuser failed... I spent many hours fixing his plumbing. :)

Aeration and katalox light tend be potentially problematic. From WatchWater.de website. Their translator must have been off the day they wrote this LOL. Warning: Do NOT exchange pressure vessel media from one pressure vessel to another. Reason for inadequate sanitation during the exchange of...

I would highly recommend the 1190F, you can refill the calcite through the top and it has an available bypass. it also has many connectors available to match your existing plumbing.

Nope, all is good, salt will typically clump like that, breaking it up occasionally is fine.

The 5800 has been rock solid except for the electronics from a decade ago. it is basically a repurposed 5000 proflo valve. I don't see them discontinuing the 5800 anytime soon but who knows. The 5800 had some electronics issues when it was first released, and this problem was most common in...

Salt is 99.9% pure, meaning a 50 pound bag of salt will have some "stuff" in it. Dirt, bird droppings, etc... Clean and sanitize the brine tank every year or two. As to salt level, ignore everything you have ever heard or read. Fill the tank with salt, when it gets low, add more. It is not...

Low pressure, likely bad resin but regardless, you are wanting to repair a softener that belongs in a museum. Don't waste your time, it is time to replace the unit.

In general the "Heavy" screen is used for upflow applications. The light duty screen is used for downflow applications. If you are going downflow there is no need for the heavy screen as the screen is rally only used as a diffuser so as to "diffuse" water flow and lessen the potential for...

Water softener loops are rarely universal. The only way to know is to cut the pipe and turn the water on to see what side the water comes from. Fleck and Clack are inlet right, outlet left, Erie and Autotrol are the opposite, so definitely not universal.

Don't. Get a good softener. Clack or Fleck based. otherwise, you are likely getting a disposable softener that tends to be landfilled in a few years. As to the drain question, you will have to check local plumbing codes, there are many local codes that vary from municipality.

Do a quick test, fill a glass with this nasty water and see how long/if the silt settles,

H2o2 is easy to use since overdosing tends to not be a problem as the byproducts are oxygen. Overdosing chlorine can be a mess and tends to be obvious unless you have a carbon tank or similar system post injection. your 35% H2o2 is fine, but it is also far more dangerous than 7%. As an EHS...