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finally got the cover completely off that control box ( perfectly simple once you done it, not as intuitive as expected) and i can see that there is a Littelfuse pumpsaver module on it. I think this means that the shutoff and restart should be happening. So something here isn't working...

it's a franklin qd control box, model 2801074915 there's some kind of wiring diagram inside it which i can't really see but i took a photo of with the phone

so the cycle sensor would be in addition to the current control box, and the restart would only work if the cycle sensor shut down the pump. if the control box shuts off , i'm in the exact same boat as now? that's not happy news.

my pump has a franklin qd control box on it, which will stop the pump when the well is dry. Would the cycle sensor replace that completely? is there a cheaper option that would just be added to the qd box somehow? The problem is that the current setup doesn't come back on by itself, so i...

ok, that works, ty. I would like to align the output from the well more closely with the well's capacity, along with putting a cycle sensor on it. There is a valve right at the well, just where it comes out of the ground. It doesn't have a handle on it, just a square nut that you can turn...

I need to be able to ensure that the well pump doesn't run when there is no water. Ideally, the pump would stop when the water is low, wait 20 min or so, and then start up again automatically. What would do this? what is it called, are there different types of (circuits?) with different...

i like the simplicity of the pipe just going out the hatch, and not using a pitless, as i said above, but - how do you prevent the pipes from freezing? It doesn't get super cold here (pnw marine climate) but we can have up to a week of temps in the teens. I can tape and insulate the pipe once...

in the picture of the pump on two pipes, there's no flow sleeve on the pump? the pump looks like it would sit flat on it's side and i thought i read that it should have the exit end elevated? and you're just running the pipe up and out the tank hatch? Simple, i like that but there must be a...

ah , i wasn't clear about the blue 'bunch of old stuff' - i'm not touching it. the old pressure tank, filters, and all that are staying intact. there will be a way to send water directly to the house from there, bypassing the storage tank system completely. I've learned the hard way in my...

here's where i'm at the drawing isn't exact - scale is off (my tank is bigger) the pitless is below the access hatch, not across the tank, the check valve is right on top of the pump not outside the tank. Overall though, i think it represents the plumbing parts ok. the 'bunch of old stuff' is...

still working on a workable plan for all this, and starting to accumulate parts. I have the pressure system ordered (pk1a kit), have a valve for the intake (drinking water rated solenoid valve) , have a workable plan for getting power and plumbing to the tank, a place to put the tank, and the...

And here we find where i went off track - when i read '24v' i assumed 24v dc. that's not what those valves are, they are 24v AC, and the transformer they need is pretty simple and basic. thanks for setting me straight there.

that looks like a version of what i was thinking. I just wanted to skip the 24v transformer, and run the solenoid valve on 110. So there's no major drawback to doing it this way?

QD Control Box, Franklin Electric model 2801074915

please tell me more? how would i recognize that kind of a control box? or , how would the external relay work? when you say a relay, i think you mean that the float switch would control a circuit that controlled a switch in the pump circuit, so the float switch would not really be in line...

i just didn't want to mess with that big 8g wire that goes all through the basement, out the opposite side of the house, and a ways underground to the pumphouse. The storage tank is about 30 ft from the well (and i still had to dig to make a perfectly flat spot on solid subsoil to place it...

this is the only post i found that talked at all about filling the tank with a valve: https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-automatically-fill-up-storage-tank.97561/page-2#post-702250 and it didn't talk about advantages / disadvantages of that approach. it seemed like...

i've been considering using a continuous-duty solenoid valve hooked up to the float valve to control the inlet to the tank. This would allow the main pump at the well to provide water for plants whenever i want, and save me from having to cut into and potentially redo that big 220v pump...

the pump i'm looking at is this one: Goulds J5SH 1/2HP Shallow Water Well Jet Pump 115/230V and i'll set it up to run at 230v. I think it will be sufficient? or do you think i need to do some more research? I wasn't aware there is a relationship between psi and head - but the tables that...

as for the actual pump, i am planning to have it outside the tank. it won't be quite at the level of the bottom of the tank, but will be well below the 'full' level. It looks like folks here like Gould pumps, so i thought i'd look at what they make. It has to push the water 20 ft up and 40...