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I come seeking the wisdom of the graybeards. I replaced all supply lines in a 1920's home recently. The client's budget dictated cpvc. Everything works great, but the kitchen water tastes like plastic. The kitchen sink was installed 2 weeks after I finished, so water sat in those lines that...

There used to be a saying-"Don't start a plumbing job after the hardware store's closed!"

hi everyone. Please do tell the maximum total degrees of bend permissible before a drain joins the main stack under IPC? I couldnt do a search that wanted to work. Thanks

Peter - why do you prefer compression couplings over sharkbites ?

And then there's the highly collectible "sinner's bible" from the 1400's I think. In The Commandments it reads "Thou shalt commit adultery" Oops.

I suspect that wiring from 1920 was all knob-and-tube. The single wire stuff, sometimes not even color coded white for the neutral.Held in place with two piece ceramic "knobs" with a nail thru them, and protected by "tubes" when it passes thru timbers. Splices twisted and soldered, then taped-no...

I should have thought out my last response more carefully. Check with YOUR inspector! What mine said doesn't mean squat for you. Jadnashua mentions what I call a trap adaptor and the banded coupling approved for above ground use. He's on the right track. My appologies for spoutin' off without...

Here, the boots for tubular are o.k. in lieu of banded couplings since they're exposed.I recently discovered this. BUT! Maybe not in your area.

Lookin' good! Oh, the fun you had. That heavy guage metal lath and plaster is hell on sawzall blades. I'd be jealous if I did'nt have some in my future...

You may be tempted to ignore this since my last advice worked out so great...The threaded part is thinnest since they removed metal cutting threads, and it's rusted even thinner on the inside.The later pics show threads only protruding from the wall, and it 's taking less force to crush the pipe...

I carry a stick of blue locktite with me for ceiling fans and bibb washer screwholes that are worn. This lets the client keep their faucet if the stems are no longer available. As for vac breakers-a few years ago we had a HUGE fire at a country club here in town. The structure was old enough...

muffin8-I rarely use my 24" wrench due to the weight. I usually use an 18" w/ a cheater pipe 12" long-6" on the handle and 6" extra length. Body position can have a lot to do with it too.But if jadnashua is right, everything changes. Are there any threads visible on the other end?

Again, there is probably old pipe dope there. Try scraping it off, and DEFINITELY try a penetrating oil.Don't waste your time w/ WD40. It's easier to find, but doesn't penetrate like PB Blaster or Kroil. It will, however, prevent them from penetrating once you've found it useless.Be patient w/...

I wouldn't try a sawzall. Not only do you risk the threads, but the blade may crash into the inside of the elbow and bend all to hell-not to mention making the tool buck around in a confined space.

I think you'll need to remove the piece of tile the pipe is going thru and the one below it for wrench clearance. If you have a dremel tool w/ a carbide tile cutter bit , it's pretty simple to do a neat job. Use a dental pick, or even a nail, to remove any old sealant, then soak the joint w/ PB...

No pics, but here's the story: This guy walked into the local hardware store whereI work part time, looking for "clawfoot tub drain parts". (He wanted a bath shoe, only.) Turned out he was trying to clear a lady's drain and couldn't open the drum trap (did'nt own a pipe wrench.) So he figured on...

Nice knowin' ya, Ryan.

A hardware distributor called Bostwick-Braun still supplies oakum to independent hardware stores, and most gun shops have boxes of cast lead bullets ( NOT loaded ammo, just the bullets!) in stock.If that copper was clean, would plastic lead work?

I'm starting with the assumption that there are charts for these units, and that x number of units requires a certain size pipe, be it supply or DWV. A lav sink would seem to have less Fixture Units than a shower, for example. But that's the extent of what I think I know.

Twinpeaksr's post and Terry's reply brought something to a head for me. I don't understand how to use fixture units for supply or DWV. I only know they help calculate pipe sizing requirements based on fixtures served. Can someone here help please? Thanks