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It is a 9" tank, and best I can find, a backwash flow rate is listed as 17gpm AquaTrol Valve Specs I believe I have an AQT-MFV-1 Another product sheet lists the Water Capacity BackWash as 19 gpm As far as controlling water flow to get to that point, does the valve restrict enough flow to get it...

Thanks for the flow numbers, that makes sense once I remember my 2*pi*r geometry. The riser tube inside both the softener tank and the KDF tank each extend about 1/4" above the top of the tank opening. How big of a deal is this? The install instructions make note of ensuring the riser tube is...

Thanks, Reach. Yes, the pic shows the head for the pre-filter, 4.5"x19". The other photo from the booklet shows the head/handle for what I called the carbon filter, and yes, it looks just like the softener. It is specifically a KDF media tank, with backwashing capability. Thanks for the tip...

Installing a water softener with carbon filter and pre-filter, it is an Aquasure 64000. The manual describes connecting the in/out/drain for the carbon filter, using nipples supplied with the unit. Also included are fittings that thread into the valve body, along with washers/gaskets. These...

I think it depends what type of piping you have. I can tell you that if the drain piping is galvanized steel or cast iron, instead of PVC plastic, there exists the possibility that corrosion on the inside has reduced the diameter of the pipe, and a heavier duty snake, with teeth on the rotating...

I've been thinking more since I replied - I had a drywall guy working on an addition after I had installed the plumbing. He wanted all the shut-off valves removed, I didn't want to shut off the water and all that. In the end, I told him that I was fine with larger holes in the drywall to get...

Thank you both. The 5/8 thing caught my attention, Bannerman - I had to read up on meters, and that led me to meter couplers as a thing, so now I know what I'm looking at. I want to upsize the pipe to the 1" that the softener is made for, but now I can't seem to find a meter coupler that is...

Installing a water softener, including re-piping from the meter onward. I am trying to figure out what type of connectors are here before trying to uncouple everything. To the left of the gray-ish oxidized base under the black plastic part of the meter, there is a brass or cast copper nut...

Assuming there is no debris caught in the ball-like mechanism inside, like drywall mud, my best guess is that these valves are not new, and were really old ones lying around for years. Whatever internal factory lubrication there was has dried out. Unless you yourself bought these new, in which...

I'm finally about to set the washing machine in place in this addition that is my life's work - does it usually seem like washing machine hoses need to get bent excessively? People don't really keep their machines 12in from the wall, do they? The hoses I bought are straight-fit on one end and...

In hindsight, I wrapped my fingers around the tailpiece once, and fingers got wet. I had already committed mentally to the water leak at the reducing washer, figured my fingers got too close to that slip joint.

OMG, thanks for the TP tip, Reach! - I wrapped that napkin around the threads above the dull metal tailpiece nut, just below the locknut, ran the water for 2 minutes, the backside was soaked. I assume it's been leaking from above, slowly pooling around the shiny nut. One more question - anyone...

Yes, it is actually a SinkGenie - It seems I made up the 'Trap' part. On and off several times, trying both the hard plastic and heavy-duty rubber reducing washers, I eventually switched out the nut too, from the plastic one that comes with the product. On one re-do, I even doped up the pipe...

Yeah, I agree it would kind of require modifications to the joist in order to keep the pex at the front of the stud cavity.

I have probably broken some rule about using new products, but before I throw in the towel and put a regular trap on, I figured I'd ask the experts. This Trap Genie keeps leaking from where the lavatory tailpiece enters the top, where the metal nut is. It's not leaking from the threads, water...

Depending how much access you can create above the top plate/behind the rim joist, I've used a couple different 90 degree bends to eliminate elbows, but placement of the pex just behind the wallboard will necessitate mounting the bend apparatus in just the right place. Here are two I've used...

You know the copper supply line on a faucet body/handle that usually ends in 1/2" MIP threads? Faucets I've bought for bathroom remodels have really short supply stubs off the bottom of the handles, the part that goes through the holes in the vanity top/sink. It's only a few inches long, and...

Thank you for the details, very much. I think I've been way too concerned with overtighteningo_O

I know this was a couple months ago (I stopped checking in here). I meant I was going to turn on the water to the addition. My inspector wasn't needing to require an air test on the supply side.

Thank you for the advice James. If I can rather easily slide the ferrule off the copper stub, does that mean I didn't tighten enough? And if using pipe dope, do I try to get some between the ferrule and pipe, or is that impossible, and dope goes just on the outside of the ferrule?