Best fitting for removable connection between vinyl tubing and PVC

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Temp945

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Hello all,

I installed a dehumidifier that drains through a 3/4" vinyl tube that goes into my air handler closet where there is an existing PVC condensate line.

I have attached a photo of what is currently there. As you can see, the existing PVC condensate line has a threaded plug that removes for cleaning out the condensate line. What is the best fitting (or combination of fittings) to attach the 3/4" vinyl tube to the 3/4" PVC that is easily removable so that I can continue to flush and clean the condensate line?

I'd prefer not to reduce the ID of the 3/4" vinyl tubing (so that it is large enough to stay free from clogging up), so here are two ideas I came up with:

Maybe I could use this compression fitting alone (but maybe it would first require reducing the end of the vinyl tube to PVC via a barbed fitting):

I was also thinking of using a 3/4" threaded fitting to add a short length of 1" PVC that the vinyl tubing could rest inside:

Thanks for reading!
 

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WorthFlorida

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The vinyl tubing is just right. It has to be an air gap type drain. Sealing it up would be like holding your finger on top of a straw in a glass of water. It wouldn't drain very well. If it's a struggle to get the tubing in and out, add a 1"x3/4" threaded coupling so there is more room around the tubing.
 

Temp945

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Thanks for your reply. The problem with the setup in the photo is that the vinyl tubing is just barely secured inside the 3/4" threaded fitting and is at risk of falling out and leaking all over the floor. So I need to make the connection more secure. For now I'm using gaffer's tape (photo attached) but removed this for the first photo to make it more clear.

I understand what you mean by an air gap, and I agree that it is important to make sure that the connection is not air tight.
 

WorthFlorida

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The existing 3/4" coupling, is that glued to the condensate drain? If not my theory that it won't drain well may not hold up. You can glue the vinyl to the coupling using that blue medium body cement. If the coupling is not glued you can lift it off with the tubing connected.
 

Temp945

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Yes, the existing 3/4" threaded coupling is glued to the condensate drain.

If I glued the vinyl tubing to the threaded coupling it would definitely be secure, but I would not be able to remove it to clean the condensate line.
 

WorthFlorida

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As shown I don’t see how the tubing can work itself out. As in my previous reply add a 3/4"x1" reducer and place the tubing in the 1" end. It also will give you about another inch in height.

white-charlotte-pipe-pvc-fittings-pvc-02110-0700hd-4f_100.jpg
 

Temp945

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The 3/4" vinyl tubing is fairly stiff and comes in a coil. For now it has some memory and resists being placed in a certain position. It does stay inside the 3/4" threaded coupling, but just barely.

I think I'll use your suggestion to use the 3/4 x 1 fitting but also add another several inches of 1" PVC pipe for the 3/4" vinyl tubing to very securely sit inside.
 

Jeff H Young

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I usually use 7/8 id dishwasher hose and slip it over 3/4 pvc pipe no fittings. Stretch the hose a little with channel locks. thats the way Ive done it since I was showed .
 

Temp945

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Eman, that was one of my first thoughts also. Perhaps it is being overly picky, but using a barbed fitting would reduce the inside diameter of the connection and could lead to slightly more maintenance due to sludge accumulating more easily.
 

LLigetfa

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Perhaps it is being overly picky, but using a barbed fitting would reduce the inside diameter of the connection and could lead to slightly more maintenance due to sludge accumulating more easily.
Does not that tubing stretch over the barb so the ID of the barb is not much smaller than the ID of the tubing? A metal barb fitting should have a larger ID than plastic since it doesn't need to be so thick for strength. You could always bevel the inside edge to smooth the transition.
 

Eman85

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Auto parts store might have what you need. Many vehicles used a thread in fitting in the intake or the water pump that the heater hose slipped on. No barb and made to be held with a clamp and the hose is removeable. You could use an automotive hose clamp but there's no pressure so it would probably stay in place on it's own or use a zip tie.
 
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