PRV replacement ... DIY friendly?

Users who are viewing this thread

Linearcitrus

New Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Pennsylvania
I had a plumber come in to take a look at something else, but he identified the water pressure in the house was a steady 110psi at the laundry faucet. He said the PRV would need to be replaced and quoted me $693 for the replacement. Does this seem like a reasonable estimate?

Seems like a straightforward job but I've never had to replace one. Is this DIY friendly with basic equipment? It's easily accessible and there is a ball valve just upstream of the PRV.

I did try adjusting the PRV but it didn't result in any changes

pic for reference:

Linearcitrus-01.jpg


Thanks!
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,459
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
The PRV there looks pretty old. Replacement looks to be needed. That or new parts for it.
Replacement sometimes means cutting the pipe, and soldering some joints. It's hard to find a replacement that just drops in to where the old one was.
 

John Gayewski

In the Trades
Messages
4,324
Reaction score
1,319
Points
113
Location
Iowa
I'm gonna say you'll want to have a plumber do it unless you have experience with copper pipe.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
If you're lucky, you may be able to buy rebuild parts for that, but they may not be available.

As Terry said, if you're not comfortable soldering, you probably won't be able to find an exact replacement, and would need to adjust the piping to fit a new one. Since all of your water goes through that, if you have problems, you'll be without water until you can get it all back together.

Local pricing is hard to judge, but in parts, a bit over $100.

Now, I have no personal experience with the quality of this one, but have used some of their fittings. This might allow you to put one in with just cutting some pipe. EB45 Direct SharkBite Pressure Regulating Valve (PRV) | SharkBite If nothing else, it shouldn't take all that much skill.

You may need a short piece of pipe and a slip coupling Brass Push-To-Connect Slip Repair Fittings | SharkBite or this Slip EB45 Pressure Regulating Valve (PRV) | SharkBite
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,766
Reaction score
2,168
Points
113
Location
92346
Rebuilding barely and seldom worthwhile, I rebuilt mine that was only a few years old and saved a bit. but on customers house I won't bother.
Pretty easy to change but in your case the fittings are close together if you don't solder you might need a pro. 693 bucks sounds typical , figure 193 for parts and 500 Labor and profit
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,766
Reaction score
2,168
Points
113
Location
92346
Rebuild is easy if its rebuildable. Wolf brand parts readily available? It looks every bit of 20 years old if you find parts likely be 100 bucks and take your chances. For me since changing out is no big deal I wouldn't consider it but If I was looking at paying 700 bucks I'd be looking at options
 

Michael.B

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Alaska
Rebuild is easy if its rebuildable. Wolf brand parts readily available? It looks every bit of 20 years old if you find parts likely be 100 bucks and take your chances. For me since changing out is no big deal I wouldn't consider it but If I was looking at paying 700 bucks I'd be looking at options

For future reference for anyone searching, I just paid $1000 to have a slowly leaking boiler pressure release valve diagnosed. Measured residential pressure at the hot water tank was 100psi (that's as high as his gauge went). He ended up replacing the residential PRV. Seems expensive, but I am in Alaska.
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,766
Reaction score
2,168
Points
113
Location
92346
1000 dollars is a lot of money anyway you slice it. whether its overcharging or the right price its a bunch of money to have to spend. pressutre relief valves are cheaper than pressure reducing valves and a differant valve but either way its a lot of dough.
 

GrumpyPlumber

Licensed Grump
Messages
1,521
Reaction score
57
Points
48
Location
Licensed Grump
A thing to consider, I lose plenty of bids over price, while I won't charge $1k for a standard PRV, it does kinda hit me when I see homeowners ask a forum full of plumbers if a price is too high or how to do the job themselves, the better thing to do is to get more estimates.

Large shops generally charge more, but they also have better service & warranty policies.
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,766
Reaction score
2,168
Points
113
Location
92346
A lot of this forum is for DIY advice but advice on picking a plumbing company is here too. From what I hear Terry dosent like to delve deeply into prices and Im ok with that it probebly wouldnt help for us to argue over what is fair and what is highway robbery anyway
 

Weekend Handyman

Active Member
Messages
436
Reaction score
130
Points
43
Location
Nova Scotia
A thing to consider, I lose plenty of bids over price, while I won't charge $1k for a standard PRV, it does kinda hit me when I see homeowners ask a forum full of plumbers if a price is too high or how to do the job themselves, the better thing to do is to get more estimates.

Large shops generally charge more, but they also have better service & warranty policies.
I am not a plumber, but if I was, I would would not touch anything < $500.
 

JohnCT

Still learning..slowly
Messages
618
Reaction score
195
Points
43
Location
Northeast
For future reference for anyone searching, I just paid $1000 to have a slowly leaking boiler pressure release valve diagnosed. Measured residential pressure at the hot water tank was 100psi (that's as high as his gauge went). He ended up replacing the residential PRV. Seems expensive, but I am in Alaska.

Web searching shows 3/4" PRVs between $80 and $200 depending on who makes it. Assuming the expensive valve and one hour in-house to replace (generous unless it's buried like in a crawl space or otherwise not easily accessible), I'd put the job at less than $500 complete, and that assumes normal travel distance within say a 10 mile radius. If the plumber has to travel longer, then that adds to the total time charged.

John

Giving this some more thought before I pushed "post reply", I'm thinking that a slowly leaking boiler relief valve as the only symptom might lead the tech on a wild goose chase. I'd probably change the relief valve anyway (they can get cranky with age) and then the auto fill valve if the boiler pressure was sneaking up. If your boiler has a domestic hot water coil, those are high probability suspects to sneak up boiler pressure if they develop an internal leak. I don't know if I would have immediately suspected a high domestic water pressure pushing through the auto fill valve (assuming that's what happened to you). So that would add some more billable time.
 

GrumpyPlumber

Licensed Grump
Messages
1,521
Reaction score
57
Points
48
Location
Licensed Grump
Web searching shows 3/4" PRVs between $80 and $200 depending on who makes it. Assuming the expensive valve and one hour in-house to replace (generous unless it's buried like in a crawl space or otherwise not easily accessible), I'd put the job at less than $500 complete, and that assumes normal travel distance within say a 10 mile radius. If the plumber has to travel longer, then that adds to the total time charged.

John

3/4"PRV, not 1/2".

Copper pipe/fittings/adaptors, sealant, solder/flux, drip time (bottom of the home pipe system), commute, liability, workman's comp, advertising.

Liability and W/C can vary wildly depending on location.

How much then?

Or, maybe you're thinking Propress can save drip time, those are on sale online for only $750.

I constantly lose work because homeowners go online, get a lower price, or Google the cost of only one part of the job and assume I'm robbing them.
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,766
Reaction score
2,168
Points
113
Location
92346
we do have companys here with reputation to be rip off joints. I could deny it call it an expensive market but it occurs. A lot of guys justify by saying they quote a price and customer accepts then there is nothing to complain about.
I do find it hard to draw a line as to whats proper pricing. Just keep my own integrety and try not to over judge others Is what I try to do
 

JohnCT

Still learning..slowly
Messages
618
Reaction score
195
Points
43
Location
Northeast
I constantly lose work because homeowners go online, get a lower price, or Google the cost of only one part of the job and assume I'm robbing them.

I'm in the same boat, although my livelihood is electronics - not plumbing, but I have the same problems.

You have to ask yourself if you're balancing your prices with the quality of your work. If you're not filling your 40 hour week (or whatever your choose to work), then you may have to revisit your price structure. It's hard to believe a competent plumber should not be jammed with work these days, at least where I live.

You might be losing work to what we call in our trade "trunk monkeys", guys who are not licensed, have limited tools and capabilities, work out of their cars, and "skim" easy jobs.

For the heck of it, I called my buddy (master plumber) who is semi-retired. He still works but doesn't do what he calls dirty jobs like boiler replacement, oil tanks, etc. He said he would take a PRV job anytime for $500 (he could do two before lunch) and play golf in the afternoon. But he also now works out of his truck and home, so he doesn't have a big overhead like he used to.

If your charges are reasonable (not cheap), you do good work, show up on time, and in all ways appear professional, you should not even have to advertise.

And to be clear, that's all speculation. I don't know if your pricing is too high, too low, too right, or the market from which you operate.

John
 
Last edited:
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks