Install Electric Anode in Relief Valve Location

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JAGDIY

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Hi all. First time poster, long time follower of this site. I am a new owner of a Rheem Hybrid H2O (ProTerra 65.) I have been researching how to replace the anode on these with an electric one and can see that it is a bit of a chore that often results in cutting a gasket and voiding the warranty. In looking at the instructions for the Corro-Protec, https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81Zcs4PTAJS.pdf, I see they have a secondary set of instructions for installing this rod in the relief valve (steps 4a-4e) - moving the relief valve to a tee on the hot water connection and leaving the old anode in place. I am not able to find any thoughts on doing this. Wondering what you all think of this approach or if anyone has done this?
 

Reach4

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JAGDIY

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Thanks @Reach4 . I figured if one were to move the valve like that you'd want to get a new valve with an extra long sensor (saw one at supplyhouse that is about 8".) In the hybrids the relief valve and hot out are really close together on the side of the unit. I'm curious what concerns you most abotu their suggestion (sorry, in advance, as I don't have a plumbing background.) Regarding the longer electric anodes, I had seen some of those discussions and I checked around online. I've not been able to find electric anodes that are longer. If you know of a brand offhand that would be super. Thank you.
 

JAGDIY

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Hmm perhaps the hot supply pipe inside the tank that this valve would sit inside of would interfere with pressure readings?
 

PlumbNuts

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The Temperature & Pressure inside the pipe may be less than that inside the tank, the temperature sensor on the T&P needs to be inside the tank for your safety.
"If it is worth doing then it is worth doing right!"
 

Reach4

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I've not been able to find electric anodes that are longer. If you know of a brand offhand that would be super.
I would prefer a long-anode Ceranode powered anode.
With the Ceranode, you stretch out the coiled anode to match the length of the OEM anode. The weight on the bottom is an insulator, so it would be ok if that touched the bottom.
 

JAGDIY

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Oh! Got it! I was reading the thread where that was being discussed, but misunderstood it as being a different product. Thank you @Reach4! I'm going to stick to the process used by others and replace the existing anode when the time comes. Still on the fence about the powered one. although I will need, at a minimum, the ones that are in sections connected by a wire since I have just about the minimum clearance required above the unit (6".) Thanks again.
 

Reach4

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Oh! Got it! I was reading the thread where that was being discussed, but misunderstood it as being a different product. Thank you @Reach4! I'm going to stick to the process used by others and replace the existing anode when the time comes. Still on the fence about the powered one. although I will need, at a minimum, the ones that are in sections connected by a wire since I have just about the minimum clearance required above the unit (6".) Thanks again.
6 inches is not enough to use most impact wrenches. A breaker bar may or may not be sufficient to loosen the original. Before buying any anode, I would check to see if I could break that old anode loose. The WH factories use way too much torque, IMO, when they put anodes in, and time adds some effects that make the torque to remove even higher.

Some newer WHs make access harder. You want to use a 6-point socket on your breaker bar -- not 12-point. Normal impact sockets are 6-point, but they have thicker walls. If the head is down a hole, that could interfere.
 

JAGDIY

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Understood and great idea. I have a breaker bar, but was still planning to call upon one of my guy friends to help me loosen the old one, based on what I've read on this site and seen on YouTube. Thanks!
 
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