|Posted by hj on March 20, 2004 at 08:59:18:|
|In response to Re: preventing plumbing freeze up|
You might want to make that (2) 1/2" ports and (1) 1/4" one. At first glance I wondered what size system you were referring to using 2 1/2" and 1 1/4" openings.
: : I have a small cabin in Colorado. I need to replace a buried water pressure tank. I plan to build a concrete insulated inclosure for the tank and a water filter. The inclosure will be buried in a pit at ground level. I am concerned about leaving the cabin in the winter for 2-3 weeks at a time and leaving the water on and not winterizing the cabin against freezing. The cabin has a crawl space but the space is so limited that if things freeze it would be impossible to fix from under the house. It is a pretty big deal to winterize the cabin. I was told that a light bulb would put off enough heat to keep the water tank from freezing. But we have trouble losing electrical power to the area. Is there a very small propane heater that would have a pilot and a thermostat that could be placed in the inclosure that would take care of this? I am just grasping at straws and I feel this is not a unique problem. I wonder if someone knows how this problem is usually handled.
: I live in the mountains of Idaho. Freezing is a big problem here also. I can say that I believe that it is folly to leave your water on at all during a 2-3 week absence, winter or summer. I would be trying to figure out some kind of easy winterization system. For instance, you can install a Schrader valve at the water heater to facilitate blowing out the lines with drains at the pressure tank or where needed. Talk to a plumber in the area. If you live and work in a climate like this with alot of part-time cabins, you get good at figuring out easy winterization methods.
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