Re: Street Elbow and brass shower valve
Posted by jon on December 14, 2003 at 01:28:32:
In response to Re: Street Elbow and brass shower valve
: : : : : : Hi,

: : : : : : Is it OK to sweat a copper street elbow directly into a brass valve (for a shower) or is it better to sweat a short lenght of pipe into the valve and then sweat an elbow onto the pipe. The first option is obviously easier, I also worry about trying to sweat to joints that are going to be so close together (is there a recommended minimum distance between sweat joints?).

: : : : : : Thanks,
: : : : : : Jon

: : : : : Using a street fitting is okay. It is a good idea to sweat all fittings that are close together at the same time. Because heat rises, I start with the lowest fitting and work my way up. You will probably want to remove the insides of the valve--the cartridge, disc, stem--what ever it has.
: : : : : Deb
: : : : : The Pipewench

: : : :
: : : : Thanks,

: : : : Does disassembling before sweating apply to all valves? (Stop, gate, etc.) This particular valve has an anti scald valve and built in stop valve, should I take everything apart?

: : : : Thanks again,
: : : : Jon

: : : Reply:
: : : Not to all valves but you should remove only the "guts" for the shower faucet before soldering.
: : : Good Luck. e-plumber

: : Thanks, this info is very helpful. By guts do you just mean the plastic cartridge or should I also remove the two stop assemblies and the anti scald valve assembly (which looks to have a lot of rubber O rings.

: : Thanks again,
: : Jon

: What brand and model specifically are we dealing with here? Novice solderers' tend to overheat when soldering. It is cheap insurance to remove anything you might melt. Replacement pressure balance cartridges are usually not cheap.
: Deb
: The Pipewench


Hi,

It's a Wolverine Brass Endurance. Sounds like I should strip it down before soldering.

Thanks!
Jon



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