|Posted by Kirk Ellis on May 07, 2002 at 17:23:38:|
|In response to Re: Cutting into existing drains for leak test|
I think what has me confused is that all my changes were going to be between the fixture drains and the vents. They want to put a 10 foot head of water down through the vents, which means I will need to break into the drain pipes on the street-side of vents to insert the Tees and be able to plug the lines.
HD didn't have the inflatable balloon plugs so I have never seen one. It would be great if they came with a 10 foot hose between the pump bulb and the balloon. Then I could shove them down the drain pipes from the toilet flang and tub stub-outs until they were past the vents, pump them up, tuck the hose down into the drain and cap off the stub-outs. I wouldn't have to break into the drain pipe at all that way. Of course the valve to deflate the balloon would have to be at the end of the hose too. When the test was done, I would deflate them and pull them back out of the pipes.
Please tell me these balloon plugs work this way !
: You are misinterpretting what he said and trying to make it harder than it is. He is saying that at the point where you make the connection for the new plumbing, you have to install a temporary plug, usually a "balloon" plug" is a "test tee" with a screw thread opening, in the new piping. Then fill the new pipes with water. After the test, you remove the temporary plug, put a pipe plug in the tee, and bury it. As for the unions, you need them to make the connections for the new piping.
: : I am moving drains for tub, toilet, and lav, and adding a new shower drain as part of a master bath remodel.
: : I was planning on just extending the drains to their new locations -- with proper vents and slopes.
: : But I've just come from getting my permits and the guy told me I'll need an inspection with a leak test. He said I'll need to be able to plug the drain pipes downstream from all my new fitting, put caps on my new drain stub-outs, a balloon in the closet flange, and then fill the vent pipes to a ten foot level. Then they will come out and inspect and make sure there are no leaks in vent or drain piping.
: : This is all ABS DWV pipe.
: : I really didn't want to have to cut into the existing drains and then put unions to put them back together again. Is that the only way ? Or is there some other way to achieve plugging the drain pipes without breaking them open ? It seems ridiculous to break into perfectly good existing drain lines. And how would they know the unions wouldn't leak after the leak test is supposedly approved ?
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