Re: Toilet-hose by shut off valve vibrates
Posted by Steve on September 02, 2001 at 18:17:07:
In response to Re: Toilet-hose by shut off valve vibrates
: Hoping you can help--My toilet kept running so we changed the insides--still ran. Well now I'm having the problem that the little hose that connects the shutoff valve behind the toliet keeps vibrating. If I turn the valve lower it stops but my toilet does not flush so I have to turn it up again to flush--it vibrates so I have to turn it down again..and so on & so on...Any ideas? If so is is something that I can correct myself? Thanks for any help you can offer.

You might try checking the ball cock especially if you bought a flluidmaster when you rebuilt the toilet there is a real small hole in the diaphram in the cap that regulates the water and all it takes is a little teflon tape or piece of debris when you disconnected it to get sucked up there to make it start acting funny also the stop itself may have a little piece of stuff in it that would account for a vibrtating supply tube. As for the not shutting off check the height of the ball cock and if the level of water in the tank is above the fill tube (the tube in the center of the tank) than it will always run trying to fill the tank to the level that it's set at but can't reach because it just runs down the tube into the bowl. to adjust a fluidmaster (it's grey plastic with a black plastic cap) just turn off the supply to the toilet and there is a grey ring where the two tubes that make up the ball cock join make sure you turn off the water when you do this or you get a shower too anyway pull up that ring and lower the outer tube of the ballcock a couple of notches and push the ring back on again make sure it's all the way on and then turn on the water and watch it fill up it should turn off about 1 inch or so below the top of the fill tube (the white tube in the middle of the toilet that the flapper is connected to) if it's still too high do the stuff all over again. If after that it still keeps running, you may havee to replace the fill tube because it may not be making a good seal between the flapper and the seat it sets on. For that you have to remove the tank and it takes a Big pair of channel locks or a spud wrench to loosen the big nut underneath the tank that holds the fill tube in place the manufacturer says don't use pipe dope on the rubber seals on this and the ones on the toilet bolts (the ones that hold the toilet to the bowl but I always do I hate to have to do it over again just for a stupid leak. Be carefull when re- installing the tank on the bowl that you don't crank down on one side all the way first and then crank down on the other because this will definately break the tank it's china just like a plate is. Do like three turns on the left side then three on the right then the left again then the right just until you just start to hear the gritting of china on china that's all you want to go. Have at it and save about 200 dollars if you break it, Home Depot sells toilets for less than the service call of a plumber, it ain't brain surgery:)


Replies to this post