|Posted by plumbobit on June 24, 19100 at 01:39:44:|
|In response to Re: venting a propane hotwater heater|
: : Help.... I got overlly anxious... I took out the electrical hotwater heater and put in a new propane one. Small problem, the propane co. won't turn it on because it needs to be vented? The elec. one wasn't vented? Anyway, how do you do it? From what I figure, I'll have to cut a hole in my roof? What do I need to vent it, how do I cut a hole in my roof? How do I seal it back, or do I? I'm gifted with two left feet and 10 thumbs, I'm all thumbs. I do need help here cause I'm so tired of hearing my wife gripe about having to take a 'cold' bath... Sheees.. where is her sense of adventure. I know I've heard at least a thousand times.."You shouldn't have take the elec. one out till you had this figured out." I'm desperate here. I have to stay away from my claw hammer, fraid to pick it up.... (just joking) but... her mother is living with us and ........ well......... like I said, I'm desperate!!!!!
: What does your wife's cold baths have to do with your ten thumbs, AM I MISSING SOMETHING HERE? The propane heats water with an open flame that gets six hundred degrees and the hot exhaust gasses vent directly upward through the roof to allow the heat to exhaust into the atmosphere. Usually installed during new construction, the exhaust vent stack is routed up and out in the plumbing wall, penetrates the roof with a three wall lined metal heat resistant vent pipe, close to the sewer vent stack, and is sealed after shingle installation by using a steel roof jack and roofing tar. Now that you want to install an exhaust vent after the fact, you're asking for a lot of work. Probably better to go back to an electric water heater. If you're determined though, you'll need to plan the routing of the vent through the plumbing wall that the vent stack uses, and strip the wallpaper and drywall from each wall as you go up to the ceiling and to the attic. You'll have to drill a three inch hole through the sole plate and sub floor of the framing of each floor till you get up to the attic. There you run a straight edge up from your vent to mark a point on the inside of the roof. Stay clear of roof joists and rafters. Any time your hot vent stack is closer than four inches to unportected wood, it will need three wall stack to prevent fire. 600 degrees is hot enough to create spontaneous combustion of the wood framing members. Drill a 3/8 hole through the roof and shingles, and stick a coathanger up through it. Go up on the roof and look to see if the coathanger shows that you are clear of trees or other obstructions. Then drill the hole for the three wall roof fire protector, and insert it through the roof. Back outside on the roof lift the roof shingles from an area sixteen inches around your hole. Spread Henry's roof tar. Install an angled roof jack over your vent pipe and nail it onto the wood roof, causing the roof tar to ooze out. Spread more tar. Install shingles. Pray.
: There is a way you can exhaust this vent out the side of the house if it's close enough and free of obstructions. Go to the licensed plumbers down the street and ask for some case of beer information. Don't go to the drunk down the street though!!!!! He doesn't have a book on jack, and he's still advising other neighbors on the correct plumbing methods.
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