Any suggestions on removing this shower handle?

[zibbler]

I've got a dripping shower, so I need to try and get the handles off to see what I can do. I've taken off the outer part of the handle and can't see any overly clear method of getting the rest off other than twisting off, but I'd rather not do something I'll regret later. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

[jimbo]

For some reason when I try to open your links, my computer locks up. Don't know if this is my problem, or a problem with the link.

Anyway, do you know what brand it is? Without seeing the pic, I need more info. Maybe someone else soon will be able to see the pic and help you out.

[hj]

They are Price Pfister Marquis handles. After removing the plastic part, use Channelocks to "wiggle" the metal portion while pulling on it. Work in one direction for a little bit, then rotate 90 degrees do it again. Keep moving 90 degrees ever few wiggles and eventually it will come off. Or use a handle puller if you want to spend the money for one. If I were repairing that faucet, I would throw all the old parts away, buy a new PP faucet and install all its parts on the old body, after removing the seats from the old body's hot and cold ports and discarding them.

[jimbo]

OK, I fixed my link, and as I predicted, hj has already identified the faucet for you. As he says, that metal handle insert is only "stuck on" by the friction and possible mineral build up over the ages. Wiggling will usually do it.

After you get that off, the obong chrome flange will just unscrew. It is screwed onto a plastic nipple around the long stem. It may be stuck in place with caulking. If so, carefully use a thin putty knife to slice in under it to break the bead. Finall, after turning off the water, you can use a special shower socket to unscrew the stem for replacement. Remember to replace the internal seat, which also unscrews out of the valve body.

TIP: When removing and reinstalling the stems, always turn to partly on postion. DO NOT try to wrench them when they are fully closed.


All the parts for this are readily available both individually, and in complete repair kits. Genuine PP brand parts are recommended. They will run about $75, vs. about 1/2 that for a generic, but will probalby last twice as long and be more reliable

[zibbler]

Thanks to both of you for the helpful comments. In case anyone is interested, I'll post my results.

[jimbo]

Thanks.
We are absolutely delighted to have people post back and let us know the final outcome of their project. A lot of us post on the forum just for the satisfaction of being able to help people accomplish a task.

[Verdeboy]

Here are pics of the sockets and handle pullers you will most likely need for this repair:

[zibbler]

Thanks again for all of the help. I found a plumbing supply place just up the road (Barron Park Plumbing Supply in Mountain View, CA) that had all of the parts once I knew what to ask for. Did a pretty much complete replacement of hot and cold for about $70. Took a little bit of fiddling and had to shut off the water for 5 of my neighbors as well, but got it done.