How to move cold water supply 2 inches?

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sleepaholic

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Hi, new to the forum, tried various searches to no avail.

I'm doing a kitchen reno, which involves moving the sink about 8 inches to the left. nothing to crazy about that, but if I do that the cold water supply pipe will lie 2 inches outside the sink cabinet.

So the question is, how to get that pipe inside the cabinet? I have no access from the basement since the ceiling is finished. Is it possible to bend/move the pipe in the toekick space under the cabinets to manouver it into the sink cabinet?

Or is the only solution to open up the floor to re-solder a new cold water supply pipe into the new location of the sink cabinet?

I've attached a pic of the pipes/cabinet as they are now. And yes I know the drain pipe isn't done properly either...an unexpected bonus in purchasing a 50 year old house from its original owner.
 
I've attached a pic of the pipes/cabinet as they are now. And yes I know the drain pipe isn't done properly either...an unexpected bonus in purchasing a 50 year old house from its original owner.
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Click to expand...
I don't see your pic that would help alot
 
heres the forgotten pic....

...sorry about that, its getting pretty late....
 

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sleepaholic said:
... moving the sink ... the cold water supply pipe will lie 2 inches outside the sink cabinet ...

Is it possible to bend/move the pipe in the toekick space under the cabinets to manouver it into the sink cabinet?

Or is the only solution to open up the floor to re-solder a new cold water supply pipe into the new location of the sink cabinet?
Click to expand...

Adding a couple of elbows (along with a new piece of pipe to get rid of that saddle valve) would take care of the matter, but the line would still be above the floor beside the cabinet unless you open the floor.

sleepaholic said:
And yes I know the drain pipe isn't done properly either...
Click to expand...

That is certainly an interesting connection!
 
Are you removing the cabinets? If you are once they're out I'd just cut right above the floor, elbow over, and come back up. Basically run the line between the cabinets and floor. Your only other option is to open up the ceiling or floor to access the line.
 
Are you removing the cabinets? If you are once they're out I'd just cut right above the floor, elbow over, and come back up. Basically run the line between the cabinets and floor.
Click to expand...
that would be your best option.
 
Is it ok to use 'Sharkbite' fittings to do the elbow, or does this require new copper and solder?
 
Theoretically, and by code usually, Sharkbites can be used. They are not exactly new, but many of us would be more comfortable with a soldered connection in a location where you would never see a drip until it was too late to prevent damage. Probably just "old folks syndrome"!!!!!
 
It defiantly requires new copper. That riser you have now is for all practical purposes destroyed because of the saddle valve. You can get a five foot piece of half inch copper from Home Depot for probably about ten bucks.

So long as a shark bite fitting is code approved where you are you could use them. They aren't cheap though and you're going to need at least two elbows and you need to get the speedy valve on there somehow (do they make compression speedy valves?). I'd rather see it soldered personally.
 
Is it ok to use 'Sharkbite' fittings to do the elbow, or does this require new copper and solder?
Click to expand...

I think the sharkbite fittings are a little large not to sure but you may run out of room. You might hit the bottom of the cabinet.
 
I understand that copper would be the prefered method. However, I'm a little concerned with setting the floor on fire since the elbows would have to be soldered so close to the floor boards; since I gotta run the elbows under the cabinets, so like 5 inches or so.

Is a really short run of PEX using an adaptor for copper do-able? Can I put a shut-off value at the end of the PEX? Not familiar at all with PEX, just from what I've read on the forums.
 
As for concerns with burning the floor, two things to note.
Flame angle doesn't have to point at the floor, keep the torch handle near the floor and angle even or upwards.
ALWAYS keep a fire extinguisher next to you.
 
Maybe I'm not seeing what it is that you're trying to do but why not just cut out a section of the drywall below?

Overall your life will be easier and the install will be better.

Sometimes you have to go backwards to go forwards.

Tom
 
Well, the ceiling of the basement is finished with plaster. And there is a 'swirly' plaster detailing across the whole ceiling, so cutting a hole through the middle of it would not be an easy patch to fix.

Thats why I'm looking for solutions from above, preferably not using solder due to the fire threat.
 
That does change things but if you patch the drywall and just call in a Drywaller to do the swirl that shouldn't cost much.

Tom
 
If you're that concerned just slide a piece of metal between the pipe and the floor/wall.
 
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