Inserting a Tee into an existing copper line

O' Great Plumbing Sages:

As am planning the routes for supply lines to my bar sink, I'm a bit cornfused about how to go about inserting a Tee into an existing supply line without having to undersolder joints that are east and west of where the Tee is to be inserted. Is it possible to insert a Tee into an existing supply line without having to unsolder existing joints that are east and west of the insertion point? The Tee will be insert about at about the midpoint of an existing eight foot run.

Most of the time, you can cut, and move the pipe enough to slide on in.
If not, you can always use some 90 el's and drop a section straight down with a dog leg.

I typically cut the pipe to see how much shake there is in the copper. Then I'll remove the appropriate amount of copper that still allows me to get enough pipe in each end of the T to solder the joint.

Thanks for that tip Terry I'll keep it in mind if I ever get into a tough spot.

Tom

I like to cut a 6" section out of the pipe and use a tee, with a 4" section of pipe and a no-hub coupler. This eliminates the need for any play in the line.

No hub for supply lines?

probably meant a repair coupling, with no stop...

Sharkbite has a neat slip coupling - it's about 3-4" long. Gives you some leaway when trying to add something when the pipes are tight.

Terry said:

No hub for supply lines?

Click to expand...

I second that.

Usually you can just pull both sides of the cut out or down while you insert the new tee...make sure to cut out a 1/2" section to make room for the tee.

Terry said:

No hub for supply lines?

Click to expand...

I meant a no-stop copper coupler. Not a no-hub rubber slip coupler (Heck, do they even make 'em in 3/4" or 1/2"?)

Sorry for the confusion.

Did one tonight

where the customer wanted a stop&waste valve replaced with a ball valve...and the only thing sticking out of the older style finished basement ceiling was the stem and handle.

Neither end of the pipe moved at all either. One was against the block wall and the other intersected closely at a tee threaded both directions through drilled joists.

I cut to the front side of valve with my diamond blade angle grinder, then cut again to remove the burrs with a regular mini, then unsoldered the valve from existing copper line, cut it again and slid the new ball valve on the pipe.

Cut a small section of copper pipe to make up the difference between socket and pipe, forced a 1/2" stop coupling to do the unthinkable.....push beyond the stops.

Took channel locks and forced it back over the two butted pieces of copper pipe evenly and soldered away.

This confined area was no more than 7" square and was scarey with the torch in a finished ceiling/enclosed joist space.