Flush-cutting a 4x4

Verdeboy

Verdeboy

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I tried to flush-cut a 4x4 as close to the ground as possible, because it was anchored in cement and I couldn't just pull it out.

I tried to use my Bosch, high-amp recip. saw with a long wood & nails blade. The recip. saw seemed to overheat, probably because I had to bend the blade a bit during the cut to get it flush. Eventually, it quit altogether. I ended up using a circ. saw and then a roto-rasp to remove the stump. This seemed very cumbersome.

Is there a better way to flush-cut a 4x4?
 
Recip. Saw

I've got the best recip. saw Bosch makes: 13 amps.

It's still under warranty, so I have to decide whether to pay the shipping fee to California to have them look at it. It's working fine now. I'll test it out some more.

BTE, I've done flush cuts before with it. Just not 4x4's.
 

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4x4

You could have the best Yugo, that Yugo makes and still not have much. Bosch is a good line of tools, but if it fails with that one cut, then it is not a very good tool.
 
I have almost the whole line of Bosch tools, and they are closer to the "Cadillac" of tools than the "Yugo."

It overheated for a reason. Either there's a defect in the tool or I was just trying to go too fast and putting too much pressure on the bent blade.

No one mentioned a chainsaw. That might be the best way to do this in the future. Cut the 4x4 as low as you can. Then chop up the stump.
 
concrete sure is hard on a chain,

I would have used a reciprocating saw, I might have cut it off first as low as possible and then made a second cut, so I could break it off with the grain and relieve some pressure or friction, but it should have done it easy,

also some times by putting in the blade on the top side or teeth up or what ever will get you closer to the edge of the saw so the bend is not as great,
(some depends on the type and brand of saw you have), I have a old skil reciprocating saw (before bosh bought them out), and you can insert the blade just about any way you want.
 
Cut it anywhere near flush and use a 1" or 3/4" bit and drill a bunch of holes below grade. An old chisel will easily take out the remaining wood below grade and you can fill with mud or whatever.
 
I've done this by bending the blade twice to offset it, with a 45 degree bend near the middle of the blade and then another 45 degree to straigten back up.

like this _____/"""""""""

i used a plumbers torch and a vice to put the bends in try to use as little heat as possible as it will weaken the blade.

I was using the blade and another contractor told me i could buy an attachment that would offset a blade, but I take his words with a grain of salt!

Mines a milwaukee the new ones have a quick release, that works great.
 
Start building said:
I was using the blade and another contractor told me i could buy an attachment that would offset a blade, but I take his words with a grain of salt!.
Click to expand...

Check the link
http://www.theflushcut.biz/
I have heard that they are not that robust but, this is probably what he was referring to....
 
That looks cool for thinner materials like door trim. But would it hold up for a 4x4 do you think?
 
I've discovered... assuming this is outside, that a little charcoal lit and placed on top of the wood makes short work of posts in concrete or tree stumps or just about anything you need removed... the neighbors wooden shed, etc.

Rancher
 
A slower, but more natural approach, would be to get a family of termites to move in. :)
 
use a router

When cutting 4 x 4's off just below grade I always use a reciprocating saw to get as close the ground as possible, then use an old router to remove all the center wood quickly to within 1/8" of the edges on all 4 sides. The 1/8" remaining wood is easily removed the a simple 1 1/2" wood chisle. This method gets me below grade and soaking the remaining wood with charcol starter fluid and burning usually gets me down as far as needed.
 
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Overheating

Noone has mentioned whether it is "normal" for a recip. saw to overheat and stop working if it is stressed too much. And then resume working once it has cooled down.
 
Use a router

I realize that plumbers do not usually have routers around on a job site - but I would have made a collar (spacer to hold the router base higher than the floor) around the 4x4, then dropped the bit a little at a time
 
Verdeboy,
Try calling Bosch's customer service. Perhaps, the saw has a thermal overload/switch that shuts the saw off if it gets too hot.
 
A sharp LONG blade should have done the trick. You were doing something wrong. Dull blade? Short blade? I generally install the blade "backwards" to flush cut.

My cordless would have done it in 2 minutes. The newer Dewalts let you attach the blade sideways to get even closer. You can also grind a bit with a angle grinder or a convertable rotozip. You can also install your hacksaw blade horizontally and trim it down.

I often use paddle bits as routers....but it looks like helll.
 
ok...bear with me here...I'm a plumber...I'd cut it a few inches up...the break out my trusty right angle with self feeding bits and bore downward into the 4x4, break away the splinters along the edge with flat bar...level off with a little leveling mortar and PRESTO!
 
GrumpyPlumber said:
ok...bear with me here...I'm a plumber...I'd cut it a few inches up...the break out my trusty right angle with self feeding bits and bore downward into the 4x4, break away the splinters along the edge with flat bar...level off with a little leveling mortar and PRESTO!
Click to expand...


BUTCHER!!:)


Actually, nobody addressed the issue of leaving the lumber in the concrete (termite food)
 
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