Critique, please

Hello all,

Just finished a polybutylene to PEX conversion. Please help me learn, anything you would do different?

1. How else would you secure PEX when coming up from the bottom of a sink cab? It seems kinda floppy.

2. I added an expansion tank after putting in new pipes and hot water heater. I will wrap all of the pipes in insulation today (the tank is in the garage). Is the flue OK? I dont smell any fumes, and air is being drawn into the hood. Pipes run OK to the expansion tank?

Thanks for the advice, hopefully I wont have to redo anything!

--Brian

looks ok but......

your work.....it looks ok
...and you cant make the pex look
that good anyway.....

you got the therm exp tank strapped and that is good....

I have seen better and worse.....


the only thing I see wrong is it appears you installed a

WHIRLPOOL FLAME LOCK water heater....

which is a complete piece of junk and will be lead to troubles in a year or two.


their is a class action lawsuit on them in california,

but LOWES dont tell you that..

BrianPlumBrian said:

How else would you secure PEX when coming up from the bottom of a sink cab? It seems kinda floppy.

Click to expand...

As installed, your pex is actually less vulnerable to bumps or whatever than is the drain plumbing, but you could attach a block of wood to the back wall and clamp the pipes to that if they worry you greatly.

BrianPlumBrian said:

Is the [water heater] flue OK? I dont smell any fumes, and air is being drawn into the hood.

Click to expand...

There is probably an adapter that would close the gap between the hood and the flue, and I would probably look for one of those (or make one).

BrianPlumBrian said:

Pipes run OK to the expansion tank?

Click to expand...

Connecting the tank to the center leg of the tee could leave you with one less turn for the flow line to make, but that is not really any big deal.

heater

You appear to have a 3" draft diverter stuck into t 4" flue pipe of some king, although I have never seen an elbow like that. You either need an increaser or some way to seal the joint better.

There are transitions to copper that are often used to attach the shutoffs for sinks, etc. This allows you a little more lattitude in what you use to make that connection, and is easier to anchor in the wall.