Basement Shower Drain..enough space?

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aviator53

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I have a new home with a rough-in in the basement. I want to put just a shower in on the concrete floor but the rough-in for the drain is 4 3/4" from the metal stud wall to the center of the PVC pipe. Overall dimensions of shower will be about 70"x46". Question #1 is will I have enough room for the drain and #2 is will the slope be a bit unusual if I use the standard 1/4" per foot for over 5 feet? Should I just give in and break the concrete and move the drain towards the center? Thanks.
Bsmt Shower.JPG
 
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aviator53 said:
.... want to put just a shower in on the concrete floor....
Click to expand...
Many solutions, all easy, or easy enough (not earthshattering, not numbskull easy). Some of them actually look better than a center drain floor.

First, aviator, what do you feel comfortable with? How much urgency is this project? And how did you end up with two stud channels side by side next to a drain?

David
 
I feel comfortable trying just about anything. I would like to get it done sooner than later, in fact i would like to start tomorrow! The stud channels are next to each other because to the right of the drain, out of the pic, is an i-beam support which the framer enclosed by doubling up that wall of the bathroom.
 
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Well, I think you really need to move that drain!

At 70" direction, you will need about 3/4" of fall. You normally try to have the wall height the same all the way around the shower, so that means you need to make the entire 3/4" in the 4-1/2", thus ending up with a very steep and weird looking slope - dangerous, too. One thing not visible either is where the vent is?

Check out www.johnbridge.com for a lot of tiling expertise and help.
 
I thought the slope might look a bit odd but functional. I guess I just hate to admit I should move the drain.:mad: There is a vent further down the line, one for the sink and then one in the sump/crock that pumps up to the overhead main line out to the septic system.
 
EACH trap needs a vent, although you can tie them together above the flood plane of the sink - 42" is often quoted.
 
Update

OK, I have spent a few hours and about $90 and I have moved the drain to center it in the 70x46 space...I thnk it was the right thing to do. Any tips on filling in the area around the new pipe? And as far as framing, I was thinking of using 2x10 as blocking in between the studs to have enough material to attach the membrane. I'll take any advice on this project. Thanks.
Bsmt Shower4.jpg
 
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Can't tell if you have a P-trap there or just an elbow. It needs to be a P-trap.
 
There was an existing p-trap...at the top of the pic. Should I have taken out the original p-trap and put a new one directly under the new drain location? I do have a slight slope from the drain towards the p-trap.
 
The trap needs to be moved...it should be under the center of the drain otherwise, any hair, soap, or other crud that accumulates along that run will be able to fester and smell. The trap blocks that, but only if it is close to the drain opening.
 
Thanks for the help as this is new territory for me. What should I take into consideration as far as height and slope of the new p-trap in relation to joining the existing drainline? Just make sure it slopes down toward that drainline?
 
You want the vertical part of the p-trap to be plumb or getting the drain right is a pain. You want the horizontal outlet of the p-trap to be sloping 1/4" down its entire length.

Have you considered using Kerdi from www.schluter.com for your shower? Makes life easier since you can use drywall to do the walls, and you only need the preslope rather than preslope, liner, then final slope before you can tile. Makes a better shower, and quicker.
 
Thanks again, that is what I thought but it is always good to get an experienced confirmation.
Looking at the Kerdi system and the size shower I am building (gross dimension 70x46) I assume I would have to get the 72x72 kit and cut it to fit?
Any idea what their system would cost??
 
You don't need the premade shower pan - it can be a time saver if it fits. There isn't much leaway in the placement of the drain relative to the pan. You should only use the pan if you can use it whole, the drain is in the exact location required, or cut it down symetrically; otherwise, make your preslope out of deck mud (think beach sand with cement in it). If you can get an exact match, then it should work. then, cover it with the Kerdi membrane.

To do this, you also need their drain - don't try it with a generic one.

Check out www.johnbridge.com for more info. You may be able to find the material locally, or their site has a source that usually comes out better in price, but not always.
 
I have read through the posts and info on that website...lots of good info. I think I will proceed with builiding it myself. For the preslope my floor will slope approximately 3/4" from the framing to the drain. The lip on the metal floor channel is about 1 1/4" so could I construct my shower base just using the channel as a guide-snapping a 3/4" line around-or would you put some other material down first?
 
Best thing is to read the info in their library (liberry). Basically, mix some thinset up real soupy, spread it around on the concrete, then quickly throw the deck mud down and shape it. It will help the deck mud bond to the concrete floor better. Don't put too much water into the deck mud - it will be dryish. Premix the cement and sand, then add enough water to the point it will hold together when you grab a handfull and compress it. You can make the surface a little harder if you use a float and bring a little "cream" to the top, but regardless, it will be a little sandy.
 
What I meant to ask was if it was okay to put the mortar bed down using the metal channels as my perimeter. I will use blocking between the studs but was a bit hesistant to run the mortar up to the channel. Most of the information out there is for typical wood framing. And when it comes time for the curb would you leave a bit of space at the ends of it to tuck the folded corners of the membrane in?
 
I think with the metal studs, you might be better off with the Kerdi system. Normally, you'd want to notch the studs so that the folds of the liner didn't cause the cbu to bow out. I don't think you'll have a problem with the mortar against the metal studs. Again, suggest you talk to those over at www.johnbridge.com.
 
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