Hot Water Heater

KULTULZ

KULTULZ

Jack of all trades, Master of none
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What causes hot water loss in a shower say when another hot water valve in the house is opened? Is there a way to plumb to cause even distribution in the system?

BTW- It is a fairly new 50GAL GE.

FREEZING IN MARYLAND-
 
If the pipe running throughout your house are too small, then when the volume of flow is increased, by turning on another shower, there is a pressure drop through the system, causing less hot water flow at other faucets.

There really isn't any way to fix this withouf redoing your piping.
 
You could replace the shower valve with a pressure / temp balancing valve. The pressure in the shower would drop some but the temp would stay the same.
 
jimbo said:
If the pipe running throughout your house are too small, then when the volume of flow is increased, by turning on another shower, there is a pressure drop through the system, causing less hot water flow at other faucets.

There really isn't any way to fix this withouf redoing your piping.
Click to expand...

Redo with what size hot supply copper pipe from water heater to all valves?

It appears the cold supply to the heater is 3/4" and 3/4" out but is reduced to 1/2" where the lines go off to the fixtures. Does it require 3/4" throughout to alleviate this problem (and of course I want to keep it within code-I am not a professional by any means).

Cass said:
You could replace the shower valve with a pressure / temp balancing valve. The pressure in the shower would drop some but the temp would stay the same.
Click to expand...

Both excellent suggestions! Thanx so much! Is appreciated!
 
How many fixtures are fed off of each 1/2" line? What is your static water pressure? Do you have a pressure reduction valve? Is the valve on the WH a ball valve (lever or 1/4 turn), a gate valve, or something else? What about the valve to your meter? ARe you sure all of them are fully opened? What is the size of the pipe going into and out of the meter?
 
jadnashua said:
  • How many fixtures are fed off of each 1/2" line?
Click to expand...


  • As the 3/4" supply runs, 1/2" teed off lines run to each valve in the two bathrooms above.

    So two showers and two sinks above (two bathrooms above the unfinished basement bath). The kitchen is fed by a single 1/2" pipe as is the washer tub (and washer).

    [*] What is your static water pressure?
    Click to expand...

    Unknown. I assume this is controlled at the meter (next to the street). Should I install a gauge when replumbing?

    (Just called city-no pressure gauge at meter).

    [*] Do you have a pressure reduction valve?
    Click to expand...

    Again unknown. I will ask the city today.

    (It seems not)

    [*] Is the valve on the WH a ball valve (lever or 1/4 turn), a gate valve, or something else?
    Click to expand...

    Both (inlet and outlet) are gate (I assume again) 3/4". It twists on and off.

    [*] What about the valve to your meter?
    Click to expand...

    There is a system shutoff valve where the line comes through the foundation.

    [*] Are you sure all of them are fully opened?
    Click to expand...

    Unless defective in some way, yes. I just went down to check them...

    [*] What is the size of the pipe going into and out of the meter?
    Click to expand...

Into I have no idea. I will again ask the city. Coming into the house, it appears to be galvanized (black) (about 1 1/4" OD) which then goes to 3/4" copper.

(City says 3/4")

The 3/4" then goes into and from the WH. This 3/4" then goes into an unfinished basement bath and 1/2" lines are teed off to supply the individual valves in the bathrooms (2) above this space. I have noticed the supply line (hot) going to the kitchen and wash tub are only 1/2" and the kitchen is on a far wall (the WH is centered in the basement).

I had a 30 GAL SMITH before and replaced with a 50 GAL GE (natural gas). The problem existed before but not to this extent. When you open the kitchen sink valve (or washer), it completely takes the hot away from the shower.

Any thoughts will be appreciated. The basement is being remodeled so any plumbing changes will not be a problem.
 
Where I live, the problem would be related to the old galvanized line coming in from the street.

If you do anything, replace that water service. But first make sure that those valves at the meter or wide open.
 
Galvanized pipe can and will corrode internally such that the flow is like a soda straw. It can eventually close it off entirely, and eventually leak to the ground. My guess is that your supply line needs to be replaced.

A pressure reduction valve is inside of the house, the city has nothing (normally) to do with it, and they are unlikely to know if you have one.

You can buy an inexpensive (less than $10) screw on gauge that you can install on a hose bib - maybe a washing machine or hose connection. Have someone watch that with all valves off, then turn a couple of things on. You could have great pressure with no flow if the supply is constricted - that is like having the valve almost closed.
 
plumber1 said:
Where I live, the problem would be related to the old galvanized line coming in from the street.

If you do anything, replace that water service. But first make sure that those valves at the meter or wide open.
Click to expand...

:( I made a mistake. The incoming pipe is copper (I just sanded a section). All connections are sweated.

Do you think the shut-off valve at the meter may be partially closed? I seem to have good pressure in the house.

I have researched and this pressure gauge mentioned is connected to an outside faucet to determine pressure and rate of supply?

Is it a good idea to install a pressure reduction valve in the new system? This acts like a surge protector in a breaker box I suppose?
 
Depending on when the house was built or remodeled, the line coming in from the street could be something other than what you see at the meter...

A prv may not be called for...depends on the incoming pressure. Adding one mean other (minor) changes need to be made - i.e., add an expansion tank so your hot water heater doesn't vent as it heats the water and it expands raising the pressure.

You can have pressure but no volume, and volume but no pressure (these are all relative).
 
It may be the valve on the top of the water heater. It should be a full port ball valve.
 
A pressure regulator valve would only be necessary if the incoming pressure was too high. "Normal" pressure for a home should run between 40 and 60 psi, so unless yours is above that range, no need. If it does become necessary to install a PRV, then you will need to install an expansion tank also. This is needed because when your water heater heats, the hot water expands. In a system without a PRV, this expanding water is absorbed back into the water main, but a PRV blocks this and results in the temperture relief valve on the water heater to "pop" to relieve the excess pressure. The expansion tank accomodates this expansion. A pressure gauge will read the pressure no matter where you test. The washer outlet is usually one of the easiest because it has the hose connector and is usually easy to access. I'd consider replacing the gate valves with full flow ball valves.
 
I really appreciate your help guys!

I think first I will get a gauge (to find pressure and delivery), install suggested ball cocks at WH and finally increase hot supply to 3/4" throughout house. It seems when the kitchen sink faucet is opened, it draws all the hot water (and this -kitchen- is on a 1/2" supply).

While replumbing, is there an advantage of running 3/4" cold supply along hot also?
 
If you are going to re=do then both the hot and cold lined should be 3/4" right up to the last two fixtures and then split 1/2" each way.
 
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