Toto 550 Pipe Threads versus the Old Shut Off Valve

I'm installing the 550 with the extension kit THU9202 where the Toto shutoff valve sits outside the 550 unit instead of behind it.

I took off the old water shut off valve (1/2" copper pipe with a compression ring and nut), and noticed that the threads on the Toto pipe are larger/coarser. It had a Brass Craft multiturn 1/2" in valve on it. See picture.

Will I get lucky, and HD or Lowes carry a piece of 1/2" pipe that has the smaller/finer threads on the old shutoff valve on one side, and the larger/coarser Toto pipe threads on the other side?

That way I can simply thread the short piece of pipe into the old compression ring/nut on the wall side, and the Toto shutoff valve on the other side.

The other "easy" way would be to remove the compression ring (I have the remover tool), and put a Sharkbite 1/2" male threaded connector on it.
I've seen on Youtube that this threads into the Toto valve.

Thanks!

Pipe threads are tapered, the threads on a compression fitting are not...they are not compatible and seal in different ways. Sounds like you didn't get the right type of valve for your needs. You could solder a pipe thread adapter onto the stub on the wall, then thread the Toto extension onto it. There are likely lots more options, but you can't screw tapered threads into a compression nut.

The Brass Craft valve with the compression fitting has been on the pipe for 16 years.
I'm converting over to the Toto.

What I'm looking for is a nipple like this from Watts (see pic), but instead of tapered fittings on both ends, tapered threads on one end for the Toto, and compression threads on the end other end.
Does this creature exist? Looking at the Watts catalog, I don't think so.

If not, I'm just going to go take the compression ring off with the removal tool, and use a Sharkbite (see pic) with the inner white PEX insert removed.
I'm hoping the compression ring doesn't leave too much of an indent in the pipe. Sometimes they do and sometimes they don't.
If it does, then I'll probably have to solder...

Thanks!

The Neorest 550 comes with it's own shutoff.

Use it.

It takes a standard 1/2" pipe thread on the wall side, and the outlet is for the supply line on the bowl.
Reducing pipe sizing in any way will prevent proper volume to the toilet.
With the 550, we open the wall if needed and move the shutoff.
You can be a little outside the dimension, but then you have to cut the panel to run the water over.

We prefer to put the shutoff where it is spec'ed for and patch drywall if needed.
Often times we can cut behind the bowl and move it without going beyond the outline of the bowl. It looks pretty tidy that way.
Can I say tidy? I started life as a rough-in plumber.


On the left, the current shutoff, which is moved behind the bowl and using the Neorest supplied shutoff.

Used a male Sharkbite with the PEX insert removed screwed into the Toto valve. Works perfectly.

I couldn't move the supply line behind the Toto because there's a vent in the wall where it would need to go.
That's why I used the Toto extension kit.

There has to be a market for nipples to go from NPT to compression.
I'm surprised nobody makes them.