Softener settings

Gary Slusser said:

He has city water that is chlorinated so he will not have any iron or manganese. I have never seen anything about compensating for anything other than iron and manganese.

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Please explain why they would show <100 iron and <50 manganese on chlorinated water.

mialynette2003 said:

I guess thats why you failed the first time...Call Backs? LOL That is something I don't have much of. LOL I'm not going to sell Tntent salt so what cheap shot do you have now?

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No, there were two factors a lack of sales because I was overpriced because I listened to some hotshot national sales manager while spending a large amount of money on advertising that didn't work; partially my doing but the hot shot was directing me, and I ran out of money.

Cheap shot... You ran me and my company down every chance you got for years here and everywhere you followed me around the internet under all your various names. IIRC, I have not said anytinhg about you as a person, or about where you live or the type of house etc. you live in or your company. I do say you are wrong in some of the things you do. Right now it is how you arrive at the gpg of hardness in a person's water by adding 1.3 times based on the TDS is it? If I'm wrong, I'm wrong but if you are wrong you deny it and call it a cheap shot. Here's a copy of what you told someone a few months ago in a PM here where you added 13 gpg to his hardness AFTER compensating for his iron;

"Resin manufactures recommend regenerating resin about every 7 days. But with iron in the water, you have to regen it more often to keep the resin clean of the iron. For every part of iron, you add 3 grains of hardness. In your case you would add 3.3 to your hardness of 39.65 for a total of 42.95. There is also a compensated hardness. Compensated hardness takes into account hardness ions that are not measured with a standard test kit. The compensated hardness for your water is 42.95*1.3=55.83. So the actual hardness you want to remove is now 56 GPG.".

Tell us what other hardness ions are in his water other than calcium and magnesium. Name them.

And then I've seen you tell people to use a reserve of 10-20% of the total K of capacity instead of using a day's worth of gallons when using a metered valve.

All that requires salt to be used and my experience says it is a total waste, and you do it so you don't get complaints and if the person is in your area you're selling some of those people salt. Plus I doubt you are testing for manganese and compensating for it if there is any.

tntent805 said:

I have attached a clearer copy for Water Report from the water district for your review.
After reviewing the report closer, I see in section table 4, " Detection of contaminants with a secondary drinking water standard,
in the level detected row it lists, Iron (ppb) after filtration <100 as level detected and in the next row in the MCL it lists 300.

Is that anything I need to be concerned with and need to address.

Water district also had posted a yellow sticky note,
"Information for your water softener:
Hardness = 21.7 gpg
Iron = <100 ppb"

Please let me know any recommended changes based on the report.

Thank you for all your help.
tntent

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That iron is in ppBillion and means it is less than .1 ppmillion and you do not need to compensate for it.

So use 22 gpg or since all the math is done for you already using your original 23 gpg and program as I showed you, or use miaLynette's way.

Gary Slusser said:

No, there were two factors a lack of sales because I was overpriced because I listened to some hotshot national sales manager while spending a large amount of money on advertising that didn't work; partially my doing but the hot shot was directing me, and I ran out of money.

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And this is why I don't listen to you. If anyone is to blame for a failure, it would be the person who is the decision maker.

Gary Slusser said:

Cheap shot... You sure love playing victim. You ran me and my company down every chance you got for years here and everywhere you followed me around the internet under all your various names. IIRC, I have not said anytinhg about you as a person, or about where you live or the type of house etc. you live in or your company.

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Is this why you posted all my adresses on this forum because I'm following you? Is this why you said I use junk for parts when I said I use a J tube (which is my suppliers name for #500 air check)? Is this why you have called me serveral times acting like a possible customer? .[/QUOTE]

Gary Slusser said:

I do say you are wrong in some of the things you do. Right now it is how you arrive at the gpg of hardness in a person's water by adding 1.3 times based on the TDS is it?.

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I love how you put words in my mouth. Show me where I said I use the TDS to determine the compensated hardness. Wake up from your dream world.

Gary Slusser said:

If I'm wrong, I'm wrong but if you are wrong you deny it and call it a cheap shot. Here's a copy of what you told someone a few months ago in a PM here where you added 13 gpg to his hardness AFTER compensating for his iron;

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I call it a cheap shot because you put words in my mouth or say I do something when I don't. Like use junk parts. Remember that? Now tell me that wasn't a cheap shot. Are you saying now that you pretend to be someone who needs advice and post so you can ridicule folks for your intertainment?

Gary Slusser said:

Tell us what other hardness ions are in his water other than calcium and magnesium. Name them.

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I have serveral times. You just need to read.

Gary Slusser said:

And then I've seen you tell people to use a reserve of 10-20% of the total K of capacity instead of using a day's worth of gallons when using a metered valve.

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I was taught to use 20%, not 10%, of the capacity as a reserve. So 20K*20%=4K. So I guess you can come up with a cheap shot for my teacher. You da man.

Gary Slusser said:

All that requires salt to be used and my experience says it is a total waste, and you do it so you don't get complaints and if the person is in your area you're selling some of those people salt. Plus I doubt you are testing for manganese and compensating for it if there is any.

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Are you some kind of mind reader? You sure do throw out a lot of speculations. But I guess that is why after 7 years I am still in business. I make a ton of money selling 100 bags of salt a month at a 5% mark up. Just enough to pay for the gas. LOL And one last question before I'm done with you again, "How is this helping the OP"?

Here is the numbers I came up with.

4*60= 240* 22= 5280*8 = 42240 rnd to 43k. 43000/3333 = 13.0 lbs. 43000/5280 =8 8*240 = 1920 gal.

If my math is correct, after rounding up,
I should change capacity to 43k and change salt dosage to 13lbs.
My regeneration would be every 9 days.

Is this correct or am I misunderstanding.

Please let me know if these calculations are correct.
Tks
T.N.

Can anyone tell me if my way of understanding and math is correct.

Am I correct in needing to change the capacity to 43k and change salt setting to 13 lbs.
Or do I keep capacity at 45k ? ( unit is a 2 cf with standard resin and original settings were 64k & 9.5 lbs salt ).
Or should I change settings to something else.
Sorry, I'm kinda confused.

Tks for the assistance in trying to understand and getting the settings correct

Tntent

You haven't posted your math but...

I've told you how I would program it and that you can use any hardness figure you want to. Of course using a lower figure than the actual hardness will cause a problem down the road a ways.

Sorry for not getting this. Think it must be all the meds. I am on after back surgery.
All the meds. keep me pretty fuzzy headed. I keep getting lost in calculating the settings.
I originally thought since the hardness level from the water district report listed hardness level
Of 21.7, I rounded up to 23 to be on the safe side.

As Gary recommended,
I set Softener Capacity to 45K,
13.5 lbs. Salt.
Hardness to 23.
Man. Override 9 days.

Since the hardness level is actually 21.7, and not 23, wont I be using more salt
than necessary during each regeneration ?

Also on the clack ws1 cs whats the the filtering option settings used for,
do the different filter settings come into play when using it in softener mode ?

Again, I'm sorry, but thr meds really makes it hard to concentrate and understand this.

Please help,
Anyone !

The system should be on softener. The filter option is if you are using it as a carbon filter or BIRM or something that does not require a regenerant. Salt being the regenerant for the softener.

Thank you for answering that question.
I was hoping that was the case. I had accidentally toggled from softener to the filter setting
and had changed a couple of the initial settings without meaning to before toggeling it back
to softener mode. Out of couriousity, is there a way to reset the Clack ws1 cs to factory default settings ?

I received my Hatch 5b, test kit today. Took sample of softened water from kitchen faucet. It only took one drop
of Hardness 3 Titrant solution to change the color from pink to blue. I also used a Hatch brand hardness test strip
on the inside softened water, the test strip matched 0. Hardness. Also tested water before softening system from outside hose bib.
Hardness tested at between 15 & 25.

In your manual you should find how to reset back to default settings.

A grain or two of hardness isn't going to use much salt. Your salt setting gets you 3333 grains per lb.

tntent805 said:

Took sample of softened water from kitchen faucet. It only took one drop
of Hardness 3 Titrant solution to change the color from pink to blue.

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Whenever I test the cold side, I do not have the use any of the titrant solution. It is always blue. On the hot side, you can tell it is almost blue so only 1 drop causes it it change to a solid blue. Soft water is classified as less than 1 GPG.

Water level in the brine tank seems to be higher than it should be.
It's at the bottom of the overflow float and stopped filling
because of the overfloat safety valve. Shouldn't it be lower than that ?

It should be about 12-15" from the bottom of the brine tank. Pull the venturi and check to insure it is not clogged.

Water level is about 20 " from the bottom of brine tank.
What do I need to do to get the brine water closer to the proper level

Manually cycle the unit and check for a draw. The unit should put the required amount of water back into the brine tank. I just remembered you are using 13 lbs per regen so the brine level is going to be higher than normal. Check for a proper draw.

There's no way to know how high the water should be without knowing what size salt tank he has, how mush salt is in it and if he has a salt grid or not.

He may have water going into the salt tank when it shouldn't be. To find out, with the control valve in the Service position, take the brine line off the control valve and see if there is water flowing out of the fitting. Of course there will be some water as you remove the line, so once it drains out, see if it keeps draining. If so you may have a bad 7000 valve. There was a recall on them recently.

If no water flow then possibly there is a suction leak in on of the brine line fittings including the one under the safety float valve where the brine pickup goes up into the bottom of the valve.

System is a 2cf. Clack ws1 cs. with 18x33 brine tank.
I had added some extra water to the brine tank after putting in fresh new salt,
and think I may have added too much extra water to brine tank.

Checked, no water leaking into tank when it shouldn't be and lines are tight.

Gary Slusser said:

There's no way to know how high the water should be without knowing what size salt tank he has, how mush salt is in it and if he has a salt grid or not.

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I knew the brine tank size and that it did not have a grid plate because I sold him the unit.