Las Vegas Water Softener Selection

Gary Slusser said:

You should take a picture from the side instead of the front. Is there a meter on that valve?

What a PIA it would be to plumb the thing if the water line was below or coming it from either side.

What is the retail price of those elongated elbows?

You talk like the only part of a softener is the control valve. If the house has smaller than 1.25" water line, the 7000 is overkill and only you are now changing the subject to "flow restriction" instead of staying with the original subject of overrunning the resin's ability to soften the water. That is a function of the resin, not the control valve.

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LOL, "is there a meter on that valve?" hehehehe, your true knowlwedge is showing again. Please click on the link below for details of how a 7000 is assembled and where the meter is.

Well I asked because in the link you have in your signature that says about rebuilding a SOFTENER but only shows rebuilding a 7000 STX, you show where to connect a meter cable "if your valve has a meter", and there is no cable or you didn't connect it. But then at the end of the video, I guess as an after thought, you show how to remove and replace a meter turbine with no mention of a cable.

It's the same video that you used the special Fleck tool in while saying it isn't needed.

And the same video where you prealigned a part but didn't show how. You also mentioned the difficulty in this or that but then insist the 7000 is easy to rebuild.

You should remember that the people here that will use the video have never done it before and some have never done anything like rebuilding a control valve before. Or aren't those the people you are doing the video for?

BTW, while I'm here, in 25 years I never saw a leaking o-ring that wasn't originally installed incorrectly, and that was very few and usually the leak was the cause of the valve needing repair, but you state to change every o-ring on the valve for "only a couple dollars" each.

I think that is not necessary unless the o-ring was not installed correctly or shows damage, and replacing good o-rings simply increases cost with no owner benefit.

And you never mention any caution of damaging an o-ring when taking it out or off or installing one. Or anything about any lubricant if needed or not and many DIYers will probably have a question about those things.

I probably should make these true knowledge comments of mine in the comments section of the videos you are doing.

Do you plan on doing a video of an actual rebuild of a softener?

Oh yes, how about a rebuild of the Fleck 5800? And see if you can keep those short fat fingers out of the way.

Guys:

If I wanted to add a few cups of resin to my existing softener, if I unscrew the valve, will it pull out the distributor tube? I know it is probably not necessary to add the resin and I probably won't worry about it after a few days, but more curious if the distributor tube usually pulls out when you disconnect the control valve.


Also, I didn't lube up the washers on the quick connects, I forgot to do that. Do you think I should disconnect and put on some silicone lubricant? The 7000SXT valve came pre-lubricated (well at least it seemed to be), so I didn't add anything not did I add any lubricant to the top of the tank (some sites indicate you should use vegetable oil on the top of the tank).

JS

Any idea why the last two pages of this thread were deleted?

JS

Dittohead wanted me to delete some stuff, and while I was at it, I was looking at the name calling, "by several of the guys", it seemed better to go back to the beginning of the name calling and just delete it.

It should be all about clean water. That's all!

Not a bad idea, but too bad about the good technical stuff that snuck in now and then. I think there might have been some .

Sorry double post.

Programming and regeneration.

ditttohead said:

View attachment 18012

Setting changes can be made anytime, just press and release the regen button when you are done reprogramming it and it will regeenrate tonight, resetting all the calcs to the new programming.

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I changed my settings for a 4 lb/cf dose, and the 7000SXT seems to think there is like 1500+ gallons in reserve (the flashing number with the time on the home screen). I reset the regen time to midnight so I can be awake to see if it regenerates. Should it be regenerating automatically when I changed the "C" and "H" and "BF" settings at the next regen time that is programmed or do you have to regenerate manually?

Oh, after re-reading your post, I see that you meant for me to click the regen button MANUALLY to start a regen. Got it!

Does anyone know a good place to buy Fleck o-rings? For some reason, the DLFC o-ring got distorted (I think when it turned due to the twisting effect of the drain tube), resulting in a fairly significant leak during last nights regeneration. I freaked out when there was water on the garage floor this morning, so I ran through the cycles and it was spraying some water out of the DLFC connection). This is part 13303-01. Can I just use a "standard" o-ring of that size that they sell at a big box store, although it might be made of a different material than the "560CD" stuff. I assume the -021 mean a 15/16 ID, 1-1/16 OD and a 1/16" width (I looked this up on some o-ring manufacturer's charts for the -021 size). This is what I was thinking, which seems to be consistent with a -021 size. Think this should work if I lubricate it with some silicone grease? Thanks, JS


http://www.lowes.com/pd_174791-7290...o-ring&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=o-ring&facetInfo=

Ok, got the o-ring fixed and all is well...but.

I came home the other day and there was water under the resin tank. I noticed that water was very slowly dripping from the bottom of the back of the plastic housing. I took off the housing, and it appears that there is condensation forming on either the plastic housing or some of the parts inside the plastic housing, creating a bit of water that is dripping down. Luckily, the electronics didn't burn out. It has been quite cold here in Las Vegas (lows in the high 20s at night), and the unit is in the garage. Anyone have or hear about this problem? I have kept the plastic housing cover off, and no dripping or other water has been observed.

Thanks, JS

Yet another issue.

I have the RC set to 90 gallons with day override off. Last night I got home at about 1 AM and I noted there were 26 gallons left. I showered, and there were 7 gallons left at 1:50 AM. The previous night, the remaining capacity was 92 gallons at 2 AM (I got home about 3 AM and noted the remaining capacity). I assume the softener should have regenerated last night at 2 AM, but it did, and I checked it this AM, it was still at 7 gallons reserve capacity.

I ran a manual regen, but any idea why it didn't regen?

JS

Send me an email with all of your settings. I can walk you through them easily. Let me know what you are trying to accomplish, the size of the system, and I will send you a programming guide set up for your exact application.

I think I figured it out.

The softener keeps the 90 gallons in reserve, it is NOT included in the amount shown on the 7000 display. I believe the number on the unit has to exhaust to 0, then you are in the "reserve zone." Then, it would regen on the next night. Since I had not exhausted the unit to zero, it naturally didn't regen because there was still the amount in reserve.

Does that sound right?

JS

ditttohead said:

Send me an email with all of your settings. I can walk you through them easily. Let me know what you are trying to accomplish, the size of the system, and I will send you a programming guide set up for your exact application.

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I breezed through what you wrote w/out thinking about it. I should have read it more carfeully. I see a lot of people who spend too much time trying to figure out every part of the programming and what it means instead of just enjoying the soft water. Your analysis is correct. The reserve should be set to 1 days water usage. We usually use the safety factor as our generic setting, rarely does a customer have a problem or question when we use this.

Excellent job on your system, now go enjoy it.

ditttohead said:

I breezed through what you wrote w/out thinking about it. I should have read it more carfeully. I see a lot of people who spend too much time trying to figure out every part of the programming and what it means instead of just enjoying the soft water. Your analysis is correct. The reserve should be set to 1 days water usage. We usually use the safety factor as our generic setting, rarely does a customer have a problem or question when we use this.

Excellent job on your system, now go enjoy it.

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Ok, so I have had this system for slightly over three years. Now it is leaking throught the drain line. My water use went up quite a bit last month, and I couldn't find anything leaking, even the meter doesn't move because it is a drip, but it still accounted for over 1000 gallons last month.

I call my on-line vendor and emailed them, but they have not called or emailed me back. Does anyone know the warranty process on this Fleck 7000 SXT valve since I am withing the five year warranty period? I sure hope I don't have to mail this somewhere for repair and be without a water softener for weeks on end.

Thanks, JS

The valve warranty covers defects in material and workmanship. Damaged pistons or worn seals typically are not covered as damage is easily caused during improper startup procedures or through problem waters, debris, sand etc. I would take the valve apart and see what it loks like inside. Check this video for detailed tear down instructions. The water is only read by the meter on the system on the outlet. You will notice the meter location in the video.

ditttohead said:

The valve warranty covers defects in material and workmanship. Damaged pistons or worn seals typically are not covered as damage is easily caused during improper startup procedures or through problem waters, debris, sand etc. I would take the valve apart and see what it loks like inside. Check this video for detailed tear down instructions. The water is only read by the meter on the system on the outlet. You will notice the meter location in the video.

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Thank you. I found your video, looks fairly easy. What am I supposed to be looking for? This valve is only about 3 years in use, I expected it to last much longer without a seal leak (heck even the Culligan lasted 6 years!).

Thanks, JS

ditttohead said:

The valve warranty covers defects in material and workmanship. Damaged pistons or worn seals typically are not covered as damage is easily caused during improper startup procedures or through problem waters, debris, sand etc. I would take the valve apart and see what it loks like inside. Check this video for detailed tear down instructions. The water is only read by the meter on the system on the outlet. You will notice the meter location in the video.

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BY "metering moving" I meant my house water meter. I was surprised the little triangle on the meter isn't moving, yet it added up to over 1000 gallons wasted the last two months. I knew it wasnt't longer shower, but I didn't check the softener because it is so new, and the laundy room where it was "leaking" into the waste line is a walk through area and if I am in there, it is usually with washer or dryer noise so I never heard the leak. A warning hopefully to others who waste time with food coloring in toilets and wasted irrigation system inspections.

John Vegas said:

BY "metering moving" I meant my house water meter. I was surprised the little triangle on the meter isn't moving, yet it added up to over 1000 gallons wasted the last two months. I knew it wasnt't longer shower, but I didn't check the softener because it is so new, and the laundy room where it was "leaking" into the waste line is a walk through area and if I am in there, it is usually with washer or dryer noise so I never heard the leak. A warning hopefully to others who waste time with food coloring in toilets and wasted irrigation system inspections.

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I ordered a new seal pack but my vendor suggested I take the valve apart to see if I can see anything wrong with the existing seals or piston. I followed the video, it is really quite easy (thanks Dittohead, very helpful). The seals and spacers seemed fine. I didn't see any issues. The only thing I saw was the coating on the piston was scratched off in a spot (from the whitish coating down to it looks like brass), but I don't think that would cause a leak. So I reassembled it and it still leads continously to the drian (sigh). I guess I'll wait till I get the new seal pack and give that a try. I would upload a few pictures but I'll have to do that from my PC rather than my tablet. If it isn't the seal pack, what else could be the issue?

JS

The piston must be perfect. Any scratches or imperfections will cause it to leak. Sounds like you found your problem. Damage to the piston usually occurs during installation. A small piece of solder, or a sliver of copper from the pipe etc can get into the piston area and cause damage. Like the piston in the engine of a car, they can last for 200,000 miles, but a little scratch is all it takes to cause a total failure.