Irrigation Well Pump Stop Working After Breaker Jumped - Please Help.

Yeah there is probably nothing wrong with the pump end. You can just replace the motor. The CSV just needs to go out by the well, before the pressure relief valve. We have valves that actually fit inside the well casing for just such applications.
 
$1000.00 bucks for the pump & motor, new down hole wire, well seal, control box and pressure switch along with labor? Sounds like an outstanding deal to me.
 
But wait, there's more... for $1000.00 I get:

-New pump and motor, I asked what brand will he installed; he named myers, goulds, etc...
-New PVC pipe (4 sections max, I counted the fitting on existing line and found two adapters).
-Probably reused existing down hole wire.
-Reused existing well seal.
-No control box.
-No new Pressure Switch.
-I have to take a day off work to help.

Due to the tough economy, he can do it for $800.00 to help me out. I asked if he heard of CSV valve, don't need it because the tank and the pressure switch control the pump. I didn't push the subject.

Question concerning piping, PVC or Poly? To lower 60' or 80' of PVC pipe seems difficult due to flexibility of the pipe. Thought?
I'm still looking for motor, any suggestions where to look?
The motor is Franklin Electric 1 HP, 230V, 8.2 Amp, Single Phase, 2 wire. Model 2445089003
 
Tpham2001 said:
I asked if he heard of CSV valve, don't need it because the tank and the pressure switch control the pump. I didn't push the subject.
Click to expand...

It is a good thing you are here educating yourself on the subject. Some pump men are good at what they do, but many don't have a clue. This one obviously doesn't have a clue. At least his price is discounted to match his understanding of pumps. Just Google "1 HP Franklin motor".
 
if he needs 200$ worth of help from homeowner, this guy is in rough shape.. or is pretty lonely. i would charge 200 extra.
 
justwater said:
...i would charge 200 extra.
Click to expand...
Talk about inflation.
2431.jpg
 
I've asked about 1-1/14" piping in earlier post, any thought on Poly vs. PVC?
Also, if PVC is preferred, can I lower each section into the well and as I go along? As mentioned earlier, the depth of the well is approximately 40 ft. Or do I need to connect all the sections required to the pump and lower it down as one continuous pipe? PVC pipe is not very flexible and I'm afraid it will break or crack as I lower it into the well.

Thanks,

Twin
 
Hi all,
Finally got the motor, csv1w (50 psi); installed it yesterday. We ran the pump to pressurize the tank to 60 psi. This morning pressure at tank dropped to 50 psi.

Cut the power to the pump, empty the tank and checked the pressure in the tank again and its reading 20 psi. This is the result from using pressure guage from Lowes, the reading were way off. Brought tank pressure back to 38 psi, ran the pump and brought the pressure back up to 60 psi.

Here is the issue...
Test the sprinkler zone with 5 rotating heads, pressure at tank drop from 60 psi to 40 psi, then 32 psi and holding steady at 20 psi. My question is what happen to all the pressure in the tank? With csv1w(50 psi) in place (before pressure releave valve) I should have 50 psi in the tank, correct? I'm losing pressure and I don't know where to look. Any suggestion?

Thanks,
Twin
 
Try only 1 head and see what happens. Check the pump curve and remember that you'll only see 50 psi if your demand is less than the pump capacity.
 
Tpham2001 said:
Hi all,
Finally got the motor, csv1w (50 psi); installed it yesterday. We ran the pump to pressurize the tank to 60 psi. This morning pressure at tank dropped to 50 psi.

Cut the power to the pump, empty the tank and checked the pressure in the tank again and its reading 20 psi. This is the result from using pressure guage from Lowes, the reading were way off. Brought tank pressure back to 38 psi, ran the pump and brought the pressure back up to 60 psi.

Here is the issue...
Test the sprinkler zone with 5 rotating heads, pressure at tank drop from 60 psi to 40 psi, then 32 psi and holding steady at 20 psi. My question is what happen to all the pressure in the tank? With csv1w(50 psi) in place (before pressure releave valve) I should have 50 psi in the tank, correct? I'm losing pressure and I don't know where to look. Any suggestion?

Thanks,
Twin
Click to expand...

Where you running the same 5 rotating heads before adding the CSV?
 
VAWellDriller,
How do I go about running one head with the rest of the heads off? I don't have pump curve, but I think I can google it.

Thank-you,
Twin
 
valveman,
Yes, I ran same 5 rotating heads before adding CSV and I got good overlap between the heads. With 20 psi, my overlap decreased more than 1/2.

This is my set up for each zone.

zone 1 - 9 heads for shrubs
zone 2 - 5 rotating heads for front lawn
zone 3 - 4 rotating heads for back lawn
zone 4 - 15 heads for shrubs.

Zone 2 held steady @ 20 psi; tomorrow I'll test the remaining zone and see what psi is for each zone.

Thank-you for the responses,
Twin
 
Sounds like your system uses about 15 gpm. Thst csv has about 15 psi of loss. If your system was marginal to begin with lossing 15 lbs off the top would give you really crappy pressure at the heads. A plastic csv may have been a bettet choice as the loss is much lower.
 
greenmonster304 said:
with lossing 15 lbs off the top would give you really crappy pressure at the heads.
Click to expand...

Hi All,
I did not get a chance to do the remaining zones test; but from what I saw the other day, zone 4 with 15 heads for the shrubs were really sad. Some of the heads didn't even have water. I did some search but couldn't find the pump curve, the original pump was rated at 25 gpm for depth between 70-125 feet. Currently, the pump is at 60-65 feet plus another (+/-)20 feet to the pressure tank. I shouldn't be losing that much pressure but I am.

Here is my train of thought on the system as a whole; remove the CSV and the pressure tank from the system and let the irrigation control box turn on/off the pump as required. Yes/no, doable or stupid idea?

Thanks again for the response,
Twin
 
Why don't you start by removing the CSV and see what happens? The pump you have won't tolerate much head loss without a great reduction in flow. The correct info for the well would be helpful as well, one post you say the well is 40 feet deep, this one you say the pump is set 60-65'. The pump you have is a VERY Low head pump, and knowing the pumping level in the well would help diagnose this problem. Brand new, this pump will only make 65psi at 60' depth. It would be best to keep the tank in the system, and with a higher switch setting like 45/65, you can probably keep out all the cycling.
I like CSV's and install one on every residential well that I drill, usually use the plastic CSV1, since it is not adjustable and the homeowner can't screw it up after I leave. After greenmonsters's post, I looked at the pressure loss tables for the CSV brass valves, and was shocked how high it was. This is probably the problem.
 
As VAwelldriller said, that pump may produce 25 GPM, but it is a low head pump that can’t makeup for the pressure losses in that particular CSV. The plastic CSV1 valves do not have that kind of loss. You will either need to reduce the number of heads you run at one time, change to a CSV1 style valve, or you need a bigger pump.

That is more pressure loss than I would have expected, so you also need to make sure you do not have a hole in the pipe somewhere.
 
VAWellDriller said:
Why don't you start by removing the CSV and see what happens? The pump you have won't tolerate much head loss without a great reduction in flow. The correct info for the well would be helpful as well, one post you say the well is 40 feet deep, this one you say the pump is set 60-65'. The pump you have is a VERY Low head pump, and knowing the pumping level in the well would help diagnose this problem. Brand new, this pump will only make 65psi at 60' depth. It would be best to keep the tank in the system, and with a higher switch setting like 45/65, you can probably keep out all the cycling.
I like CSV's and install one on every residential well that I drill, usually use the plastic CSV1, since it is not adjustable and the homeowner can't screw it up after I leave. After greenmonsters's post, I looked at the pressure loss tables for the CSV brass valves, and was shocked how high it was. This is probably the problem.
Click to expand...

VAWellDriller,
This is somewhat confusing to me and its my first time around the rodeo. When we first pulled the pump, I just start cutting sections as we pulled. So I don't know exactly the length of pipe were used. The only thing I have to go on is the down wire; when we lower the pump again I added 10' section till I have enough down wire to connect at the junction box. When all said and done, I used a bundle (5) 10' section and another 8'. Regardless of what CSV I used, once it in and down in the well; there is no way I'll be messing around with it.

I plan to remove the CSV valve and leave the system the way is was and go with higher setting as you suggested. One more question, do you install check valve in your system? If you do, where do you place it?

Thanks,
Twin
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Graffiti
Need Help with Shallow water pump setup for Irrigation
Replies
6
Views
467
Valveman
Valveman
D
Is The Pump Running Dry?
Replies
17
Views
2K
DS1
D
K
Well pump stays on, pressure tank has no water
Replies
2
Views
487
SuperGreg
SuperGreg
Cruisinforgold
Need Some Help Diagnosing this Situation with pressure and operation of well
Replies
11
Views
3K
finnski
F
Kxm
Well pump, pressure tank or pressure switch
Replies
1
Views
3K
Valveman
Valveman
Back
Top