Why have chlorine go through the pressure tank? The chlorine will reduce the life of the P/T. To me, your set up now is good except for the lack of a flow switch. Add it to the outbound side of the retention tank and be done with it.
Iron test shows 0.0 in the house, but there sure is some there. The drainboard by the sink also shows a reddish tint after a week or so.
I always overthink things. Only now, I don't get paid for it
. I've accumulated all the parts for an iron filter, so WTH. And there's no ring on the toilet bowls -- just the redish stain in the tank.I overthought that quite a bit. Everything is within 15' of the pump. I think I can rig an overpressure switch in the line to detect blockages, shut things down, and raise an alarm in the security system.
I guess you'd have to ask the well driller. I certainly didn't know any better back in '00, so I just went with what he did. It's a jet pump, but if/when it dies I'll consider switching to a submersible.
Mainly for the reasons mentioned earlier. As it is now, the injector usually runs with no flow in the pipe, and as water is drawn from the contact tank the accumulated slug of chlorine slowly drifts into the tank, and isn't well mixed. Also, a few years ago I thought the pressure tank had failed, and when I drained it, a bunch of really disgusting goop came out. I cleaned it up, checked that it was working just fine, and resolved to look into chlorinating before the pressure tank.
When I talked with the manufacturer of the pressure tank at the time of the incident mentioned above, they recommended chlorinating, and mixing well in the contact tank, before the pressure tank. They assured me that there would be no problem with the bladder, but maybe they just want to sell me another. Since right now I'm seven or eight years into their 5-year warranty, they probably will.
If it is pink/reddish, it is an airborne bacteria that gets into open water in a house, like pet water dishes etc.., not iron.
If it is a single line (shallow well) jet pump, they can't suck water over about 25'. If it's a two line (deep well) jet pump they have a jet body down in the well and are good for up to 150'+. Those measurements are at sea level. So now you have the 200- 60' = 140' plus whatever distance above the 60', from 60 up to at least 25', that you don't draw water down below that; of stagnant water, in FL.
Not a hint of pink, more like orange. I'll get a sample to a microbiologist buddy and see if she can culture something disgusting.
Excellent point -- definitely a deep well jet, 1" and 1 1/4" pipes. I thought the team that installed the well were a lazy bunch, so maybe they just decided after gluing up 60' of pipe that it was Miller Time and knocked off. I'll talk to another local well guy I have more confidence in and see what he says -- there may be some local conditions that dictated the 60', or maybe they didn't want to get too close to the bottom of the casing. It's all sand and clay in the cased area, but tan limerock below, according to the well completion report. It's obvious that they were unable to drive the casing into the rock at all, FWIW.
I don't know what you are calling "poly" but here in the US it refers to polyethylene (PE) pipe.
