How can I put hauled water into my hot water tank

I have a well with a serious clear water iron problem that turns laundry, dishes and fixtures rusty. Installed an elaborate filter system that is supposed to take care of it all, and often does. Installed by strongly recommended dealer who comes from 80-90 miles away. If he were closer I could probably pay him to maintain the system. I think my maintenance is much of the problem, what with making a soda ash-bleach solution, and keeping filter piping open. It occurred to me that most of the damage involves hot water use, and I got to thinking I could probably haul most or all of our hot water needs from nearby sources of municipal or spring water. Say 600 gals a week and no worries about rusty laundry and cloudy dishes, making my wife much happier. The spring water would be free. I am retired and have the time, although not much money and no big truck. I would put the largest plastic tank I can trailer haul with an old truck or car (150 gals), run 3-5 miles up the highway, fill a 1000 gal tank in a few trips and then try to keep up.
I am not that handy and never depended on a well before. So is this a ridiculous idea?
How can I gravity feed into my hot water tank? Or do I need another pressure tank?
Would it be easier to blend the hauled water before my present pressure tank with the filtered well water to whatever percentage would make the rust problem go away? How would I do that?
Or does anyone see a simpler solution?
Would appreciate any ideas. Thanks.

Not sure what part of the country ( warm or cold climate ) What about getting ahold of one of those blow-up swimming pools and filling that up for water qaulity issues. You can monitor and treat the water and see it first hand. You can see what sort of irons will settle out of it... You could also use it for swimming and enjoy it. Then skim off the top and pump clean water for hot water and laundry. You can get those pools pretty cheap and you could set it up close to the house. It would basically be your own personal water treatment plant.

Mike Pastorelli said:

It would basically be your own personal water treatment plant.

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WOW! Just WOW!

Pete Farrell said:

So is this a ridiculous idea?

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I think so. It would take less effort to learn to maintain your system and less cost to hire the installer to do it.

If the piping is clogging up with iron, put in larger diameter piping and avoid hard right angle elbows.

To gravity feed, just place the storage tank about 150 feet higher than the HWT.

I already have a ton invested in treatment. It is the occasional fail that is my problem. And actually what is clogging is part of the treatment system, clogging the injector valve with soda ash, which seems to crust up very quickly in its tank also. I am near the ocean in Oregon, moderate climate, isolated house.

I would think the 1st thing that would give positive proof of crystal clear water would be to SEE IT.. Seeing it 1st hand will answer all the unanswered questions. Some of those blow-up 12' diameter pools ( 36" depth ) with filter can be had for like $30.00 at BIG LOTS or whatever discount store is in your area. Letting the water breath and giving it sunlight will be apart of the plan as well as chlorinating it. Your either going to be HAULING WATER or TREATING WATER.. Pick your game plan If your system isnt working the way its suppose to then lets keep it simple and let your eyes see the water before you use it..

Mike Pastorelli said:

... Letting the water breath and giving it sunlight will be apart of the plan as well as chlorinating it ...

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Yes. It has been a while since I read about doing that, but work with the water you already have on-site. Do a Google for "iron aeration" and then take things from there.

I would disregard advice from Mike Pastorelli.

Mike Pastorelli said:

I would think the 1st thing that would give positive proof of crystal clear water would be to SEE IT...

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If one could see deadly bacteria, we wouldn't have to send water out to be tested.

dlarrivee said:

I would disregard advice from Mike Pastorelli.

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+1

LLigetfa said:

If one could see deadly bacteria, we wouldn't have to send water out to be tested.


+1

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Well, I don't see any serious ideas here so far, except to disregard the kid pool idea that did not sound very tempting in the first place. It would help me to know whether I would still have enough water pressure for the one-story up dishwasher if I simply disconnected the hot water heater supply, disconnected the electric, drained the heater and then refilled it with clean water from a new source. My dealer is unable to schedule me in this week.
He doesn't think much of my alternatives.
Thanks.

Fuel must be really cheap in Oregon, I think you're absolutely nuts for thinking you're going to haul water instead of treating what you have.

Trying again to explain how desperate I am: I have thousands invested in treatment of a SEVERE iron problem that does not always work. Like now. It has been two weeks since we have been able to put anything but rags in the clothes washer, or dared wash any valuable glassware or china.
I have the far off water expert on call, but he can't get here soon. Meanwhile showers make us smell funny.
Nobody around here delivers bulk water.
I thought a temporary solution might be to put what clean water I can haul into the hot water tank to do laundry, wash dishes and shower. This would be a reasonable if not convenient amount of water to carry each week (a source is on our regular route to town) even though it is an expensive solution. My question was how to most easily get the pressure I need if I disconnect the hot water tank inlet line and connect it to an outside water tank or cistern, putting clean water in.
Thanks for any knowledgeable, useful replies that do not involve 150-foot towers, kid swimming pools. etc.

Pete Farrell said:

Thanks for any knowledgeable, useful replies that do not involve 150-foot towers, kid swimming pools. etc.

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The typical 150 foot height of a water tower is what is used to have normal city pressure. The formula is .43 PSI per foot. Unless you are in hilly terrain, it is probably not feasible to locate the water storage high enough to get any useful pressure. Your alternative then is to have either a pressurized storage tank or a pump.

I would suggest the use of the nearest laundromat and/or hand washing valuables in the interim.

Thanks. I had figured it would take a dedicated hot water pressure tank. And if that is all it takes. I should be fine. Do you know if I need the full 60 pounds of pressure for dish and clothes washer?

Pete Farrell said:

I had figured it would take a dedicated hot water pressure tank.

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If you are counting on your existing HWT as being the pressure storage tank, that won't do. You will need a separate hydro pneumatic storage tank before the HWT. You also need some way to pressurize it, either a water pump or an air compressor.

Right, thanks. I got that it will take a bladder tank, and I have a compressor. I see the system as some kind of storage tank for the hauled water == a plastic tank or potable water 55-gal barrels or maybe a scrapped hot water tank -- the pressure tank filled by a gravity feed from that storage, and then the existing hot water tank going to the house piping.
When I turn on the hot water, the pressure sends the tank water through the house piping, gravity feed adds water into the pressure tank (I think or will I need some kind of controller or anti-back pressure valve?) and I have to make sure there is always enough water in the hot water tank to keep the elements from burning up. If that works it will be good enough as a fall back system that would also get me through a power failure (without heating the water) as well as a treatment system failure. ) Thanks.

Pete Farrell said:

...I have to make sure there is always enough water in the hot water tank to keep the elements from burning up...

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By that comment, I'm not sure you understand how a HWT works. You have to put a gallon in to get a gallon out. A gallon of cold water goes to the bottom and a gallon of hot water comes out the top. If fed wed under pressure, it is not possible for water to exit the top and leave the element exposed to air.

Yes, I see that now. Thanks. I was seeing a danger because of my recent experience in fooling with the breaker and draining my hot water tank at the same time. I lost track of on and off (I was doing several drainings and partial fills because of the bad water and junk I had to get out) and burned up the elements. But as long as I don't drain the tank, that would not be a worry.

Tis a gift to be simple...
Sorry, I couldnt give you a better solution. I am younger ( not retired ) and have lots of time. So doing the HARD work the cheapest way possible to get clear water would not be an issue for me. Heck, we sometimes still wash in the river with a washboard and eco soap. For us its no problem, but for most N. American KOOL AID drinkers thats far fetched and to hard to do..
Hope you figure it out

Take a look here, Pete:

http://www.prairiewaternews.ca/water/vol13no2/story5.html

That is the kind of simple system I had first read about a few years ago.