2 questions about softeners

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ditttohead

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Remove the meter cable sensor from the back of the valve and pass a magnet across that several times, the flow indicator should blink. If it does not blink, you may have a bad sensor cable or board.
 

Gary Slusser

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A guys... those ladies, including an exwife of mine with a 36-24-36 body, a redheaded green eyed scratch 'til ya bleed screamer ex **** model (that's as in an art school classroom) and an ex runway fashion model and instructor in Amsterdam, was an exceptionally great cook but...

To me, she and your ladies, I'm thinking they are not, nor have they ever been, in the culinary arts profession, as is required to be the kinda "cook" I was referring to.
 

Fabricator

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Remove the meter cable sensor from the back of the valve and pass a magnet across that several times, the flow indicator should blink. If it does not blink, you may have a bad sensor cable or board.

i did that, it does nothing, and i used a good magnet. its not in bypass, the water is soft, no doubt.
 

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ok, i just tried to program it.

i pushed the up/down buttons. it displayed 15, push regen button. displayed 2:00, push regen button.
it does not display H20. it just skips to time. i tried it many times, same thing.
 

Tom Sawyer

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Yes, I know, and she's a very good actress and ya know, it's like plumbers, those that cant, teach... or do code stuff.

BTW, I think her eyes are too close together, or was that another one?

It must be so very hard living in your fantasy world LOL

Those that can't..........get forced to retire LOL
 

ditttohead

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ok, i just tried to program it.

i pushed the up/down buttons. it displayed 15, push regen button. displayed 2:00, push regen button.
it does not display H20. it just skips to time. i tried it many times, same thing.

To get into master programming where you can tweak every setting, set the time to 12:01 P.M., then wait a 15 seconds. Then push the up and down arrow buttons at the same time for about 8 seconds. You are now in master programming mode. If the magnet against the sensor does not work, then that would indicate a bad cable/sensor, or a bad board. Neither is common, but my money would be on the cable. I go through a few a year, but we are moving huge volumes so the numbers of cables that go bad is insignificant. The 5600SXT, 2510 SXT, etc all use the same cable sensor, just the lengths vary.
 

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To get into master programming where you can tweak every setting, set the time to 12:01 P.M., then wait a 15 seconds. Then push the up and down arrow buttons at the same time for about 8 seconds. You are now in master programming mode.

If the magnet against the sensor does not work, then that would indicate a bad cable/sensor, or a bad board. Neither is common, but my money would be on the cable. I go through a few a year, but we are moving huge volumes so the numbers of cables that go bad is insignificant. The 5600SXT, 2510 SXT, etc all use the same cable sensor, just the lengths vary.

ok, i did just that. it displays 2 perameters, DO & RT. then it reverts bad to in service mode. magnet trick does nothing.
this thing is really pissing me off. it is now unplugged.
 

ditttohead

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ok, i did just that. it displays 2 perameters, DO & RT. then it reverts bad to in service mode. magnet trick does nothing.
this thing is really pissing me off. it is now unplugged.

It all good, I see one of the problems already. The system is not programmed for the meter, it is set as either a backwashing or timeclock model. That is why you have no meter signal, it is not looking for one. Be sure you are setting it to p.m., not a.m before trying to get into master programming mode.

If all else fails, all of the SXT boards can be over ridden and reset to factory defaults by simply unplugging the power. Before you plug it back in, push and hold the regen button, plug the unit in, wait a few seconds and release. You will see HR on the sxt screen. This indicates it is doing a "hard reset".
 

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a hard reset and 20 sec of programming did it:thumbsup: :cool:

THANX man !!!

i knew it wasn't hard. but something tripped me up, and made it hard.

next question :
since this thing has been working for about 5 days now. should i do a manual regen this weekend, or just let it do its thing ?
 

ditttohead

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I would push the regen button and release it, that will force the system to regenerate at 2:00 p.m. tonight. You will see the faucet start blinking, this indicates that it is going to regenerate tonight. This will fully regenerate the resin, and it will reset the meter count to the programmed amount. Glad it was an easy program fix.
 

F6Hawk

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And a big thanks to DH for telling us how to do a hard reset. Cuz that ain't in the manual! Ain't it nice to be able to have all this knowledge in one little meeting place??? :)
 

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thanx DH.

F6. i thought i saw a hard reset somewhere in the manual, also a soft reset. i just looked and can't find it now, but that is SOP for me.
 

F6Hawk

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Well, I am blind, and now you may want to have your eyes checked too, cuz it's on page 12, middle of the page, under RESETS. DOH!!
 

Fabricator

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lol, you ain't tell'n me anything i don't know. i have reading glass's all over the place.

and perhaps you should learn to count :D(jk. my pages are not even numbered :rolleyes:). mine is on pg5, at the beginning of "master programming mode" .
 

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another question.

what happens if, for whatever reason, it doesn't regen and the water goes hard ?

oh. and, how long can i expect the resin to last ?
 

ditttohead

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Some comapanies recommend double salting and double regenerating, but in all reality, add an extra gallon of water to the brine tank and manually start a regeneration and you will be fine. The reason for double/double on the regen makes sense on paper, but when all the variables, reserves, efficiency settings, buffers, etc.. are considered, it is rarely needed. It will also not hurt anything to do that, just usually not necessary.

Resin life... 1-30 years. Depends on too many factors including the water quality, water quantity, chlorine/chloramine levels, etc...

The most common sysmptom of bad resin is no water flow. This is caused by the resin breaking down in chlorinated supplies into a mush that water has difficulty passing through. The second most common problem is lowered capacity due to surface fouling. This is easily tested by checking the systems rated capacity vs actual capacity. When softeners are used for iron removal, this is a common proiblem and regular chemical stripping of the resin is recommended to minimize this.

Hope this helps.
 
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Fabricator

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Some comapanies recommend double salting and double regenerating, but in all reality, add an extra gallon of water to the brine tank and manually start a regeneration and you will be fine. The reason for double/double on the regen makes sense on paper, but when all the variables, reserves, efficiency settings, buffers, etc.. are considered, it is rarely needed. It will also not hurt anything to do that, just usually not necessary.

Resin life... 1-30 years. Depends on too many factors including the water quality, water quantity, chlorine/chloramine levels, etc...

The most common sysmptom of bad resin is no water flow. This is caused by the resin breaking down in chlorinated supplies into a mush that water has difficulty passing through. The second most common problem is lowered capacity due to surface fouling. This is easily tested by checking the systems rated capacity vs actual capacity. When softeners are used for iron removal, this is a common proiblem and regular chemical stripping of the resin is recommended to minimize this.

Hope this helps.

that does help, indeed. thanx
 
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