Correct way to stub out PEX?

mystryda

mystryda

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Is there a correct and accepted way to stub out PEX for supply lines to lav and WC?

I had a house replumbed. The plumber transitioned from PEX to copper before going through the wall and to the valve.

The stubout feels "floppy." Is this acceptable? Here in Ohio we're under the IPC, I believe, if that matters.
 
It's pex, it's floppy by nature, but yes, there are multiple ways to secure it and the stub outs. check souix chief's web site
 
If it freely moves both up and down, in and out, does that constitute "wrong" and need to be corrected to be "workmanlike?" Is there some sort of standard for securing pipe by stub outs like there is for securing romex by boxes?

The copper stub out is so floppy that the escutcheon won't stay tight against the wall.
 
Are they all like that? I usually clip the copper stub out so it won't move although I only use them on the toilets supplies where it is seen. Either way, it's usually clipped down at the stub outs. It shouldn't flop around like you described.

Did an actual plumber do the job. You can just leave the stub out loose or the drywallers will make holes anywhere convenient and the job will end up looking like a dog's breakfast.
 
Last edited:
ckl111 said:
Are they all like that?
Click to expand...

There are four bathrooms, so twelve stubs. About a quarter of them are extraordinarily loose, and the rest of somewhat loose. None of them are what I would consider firm or well supported. When I've done it, I've used the copper right angle with the flange, like from Sioux Chief, where the flange is nailed to the stub and the copper is clamped right above the transition from PEX; I would call the result firm.

ckl111 said:
Did an actual plumber do the job. You can just leave the stub out loose or the drywallers will make holes anywhere convenient and the job will end up looking like a dog's breakfast.
Click to expand...

The rough in and trim out (is it called "trimming out in plumbing like it is in electric?) was done by a major plumbing contractor around here. I have no idea who the drywall sub was.

Should I ask for it to be redone/secured?
 
It is more professional to ensure that the copper stubouts are nice and perpendicular to the wall sheating and anchored. As mentioned, one place that makes some that work is Sioux Chief http://www.siouxchief.com/Support/Brackets. You can solder the stubout through one of the holes in the bracket, then attach the pex (don't want to be soldering close to the pex). This provides a nice, solid connection for the stubout.

How often is it done that way? Depends - it costs a little more and takes longer, so depends on what was spec'ed. Do not know if there is a requirement in the code for this, but I doubt it.
 
If I used pex I would use copper stub ells soldered to a rough in bar but I don't use no stinkin pex for potable water so it's a non issue.
 
mystryda said:
There are four bathrooms, so twelve stubs. About a quarter of them are extraordinarily loose, and the rest of somewhat loose. None of them are what I would consider firm or well supported. When I've done it, I've used the copper right angle with the flange, like from Sioux Chief, where the flange is nailed to the stub and the copper is clamped right above the transition from PEX; I would call the result firm.



The rough in and trim out (is it called "trimming out in plumbing like it is in electric?) was done by a major plumbing contractor around here. I have no idea who the drywall sub was.

Should I ask for it to be redone/secured?
Click to expand...
It's up to you. I don't know if it's a code issue, the plumber's here will know better than me, but it's definitely sloppy work. I've never seen it as loose as you describe.

Before you throw the plumber under the bus, the problem may have been the drywallers knocking them loose when boarding the wall. Was it clipped properly at the rough-in stage? If you don't know, you'll have to cut one open to see. If you do, I would cut open one that will be behind a vanity so the repair can be simpler.

You may have a valid compliant but make sure you blame the right crew.
 
I use a bracket that the copper stubs solder to, and it can be used with the PEX/copper stubouts, also. In fact, since PEX is so much more flexible than copper, they should be used. It is a lot easier than fabricating a bracket for a Talon nailer, and secures it in ALL directions.
 
True but copper can be installed just as sloppy. I've had jobs where the building inspector made the plumber come back and install more clips and supports everywhere so the system doesn't rattle or is just left dangling. Hacks will be hacks, no matter what material they use. PEX just allows them to be faster hacks. :)
 
if you want it to be rock solid like traditional copper terminate the pex with an drop eared elbow fastened to an backer board and stub out with an nipple and an threaded angle stop.just be sure to use some teflon tape and some good pipe dope.two brands that are good are hercules blue block or loctite
 
ckl111 said:
Sloppy work is done by people who just don't give a damn. Don't blame the material.
Click to expand...

The whole purpose of PEX is speed, there is no other reason to use it.

I stub out my copper with a drop-ear-ell any time I can, there is no level of "floppy" that is acceptable to me.

Listen to HACKney plumbing, he stubs out with pex, can you imagine how sloppy that must look?
 
dlarrivee said:
The whole purpose of PEX is speed, there is no other reason to use it.

I stub out my copper with a drop-ear-ell any time I can, there is no level of "floppy" that is acceptable to me.

Listen to HACKney plumbing, he stubs out with pex, can you imagine how sloppy that must look?
Click to expand...

It looks great! Looks even better tucked behind piles of homeowners crap they hoard under their cabinets. LOL

I'll post some finished pics soon.
 
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