Flexible ABS bath drain? WatcoFlex®

I've got a tub install that is going to make me take a pretty hefty notch out of a structural piece. I see that Watco has the flexible drain and overflow kits (http://www.wcmind.com/watco/PDFMainFrame.html), but they are in PCV only. My drains are ABS. Does anyone make an ABS version?

thanks.

Use the PVC drain and connect to the ABS with a no hub band coupling. totally legal, works just fine.

Ok. I'll just have to get a PVC trap and do it in the run after that. Will actually make the install even easier.

thanks!

If they have them in your area, they make a 4 clamp no hub band now ( insted of the old 2 clamp style) The 4 clamp is considerably better and worth the extra price. dont use a "fernco" use a no hub band.... 4 clamp style if you can get it

ok thanks. I'll look into them. Appreciate all the suggestions.

You do not need a PVC trap. You can make the transition between the trap and the tub drain.

It says they sell them, some part numbers from the site:
• 970/980/990 and 971/981/991 availablle in ABS and PVC

edit: I see this is the cable model only.

You do not need a PVC trap. You can make the transition between the trap and the tub drain.

Click to expand...

http://www.wcmind.com/watco/PDFMainFrame.html

Do you mean use the clamp between the shoe and the san tee? My understanding was that the flexible portion was already welded to the PVC san tee. If not then I'll just use an ABS san tee and do as you suggest, but how does the green flexible piece weld to the ABS?

Just got off the phone with Watco. The Flex900 comes pre welded to the PVC san tee so the transition would have to be below that. The do have an ABS option. It's their WatcoFlex®. You tell them the tub and they make it for you and you can choose PVC or ABS. This one is a direct drain.

I would guess that is your standard PVC spa flex tubing that has some green added to it. You can buy said tubing for about 1/4of the cost of theirs. Nice system, however.

Yeah I agree. I don't plumb every day but if I did I would think this would be a go to system for ease.

Hackney plumbing said:

Anyone ever try to clean the tub drain through one of those? LOL They suck.

Click to expand...

Actually, the direct drain makes it easier to clean the tub drain. You can snake directly through the drain with a smaller end on the snake. If you snake through the overflow, there is a edge/lip in the drain tee that directs the snake into the drain. It looks like it would be difficult to clean the drain but it is actually easier.

Using the small end of the snake means you do NOT do a proper job of unplugging the drain line.

I have used the Watco waste overflow many times without any problems. It is very hand to have when the framing is in the way. As for snaking the drain, I really can't see that snaking it would be any more of an issue that snaking any tub drain.

Any further thoughts on this?

I'm not a plumber but I want to be able to know what the options are when discussing with my plumber.

I have a similar situation where the drain is directly over an 3"x8" joist.

Its a 100 year old house and 50 years ago a not so great renovation was done...
On the old tub the drain exited at 90 degrees (ie toward the front apron) to mate with a tower stopper on the other side of the tub.
That only needed a small ~ 2 inch notch for the drain itself.

I never really thought about it but now i realize the tower was also the overflow.
Unfortunately to accommodate the tower and the trap, they completely butchered the next joist over, I mean a 6-7 inch deep notch, by 10 inches wide ! (criminal if you ask me)

Any way, on the new installation the tower will be gone (and that joist has been repaired), and the new tub will have the standard drain + overflow. So I'm looking for options to avoid another hack job, this time in the joist directly under the drain.

A standard drain that goes straight back to the overflow tee and then down is out of the question.
I'd love to have drain exit the same way it used (at 90 degrees / towards the front apron), and then meet the overflow in the space between the joists, then continue horizontally out the main stack.

Even if I could get it to exit at 45 degrees i think that would be enough.

So is this Watco flex924 a good brand and product. As mentioned I'm not in the trade and never heard of them; nor can I find much info outside of their web site.

Also I noticed they have a "NY" tee version of the brass, which loos like it's made to exit on the side instead of going down. That would take a long notch but not too deep. Is that a special local code for New York? ( sorry like I said - not a plumber)

Any other options?

Thanks!