DIY Expansion Tank

Coolul007

Coolul007

New Member
Messages
24
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
California
I am just starting to connect a well to a cabin. What is here is a well, Franklin pump 10gal 1/2 hp. Nothing else is connected. I put electricity to the well and it pumped water. Here is my question, I have read all the pros and cons of fiberglass vs. steel expansion tanks and it seems I'm going to replace something in a few years. I was thinking that I could make my own cheaply by capping a 4" x 8' PVC pipe, feeding it at the bottom and allowing the compressed air do the job. it's very scalable by just adding pipe. I also read in the forum about air/water mixing. Is this where this low-cost tank goes awry?
Thanx
 
Bad idea. Way too small as the volume is only 5 gallons. A 10 GPM pump should have at least 30 gallons if not used with a Cycle Stop Valve.

The air will be absorbed very quickly unless you use some method to add air frequently.

I haven't heard any cons for a fiberglass tank. Care to share?
 
The cons for fiberglass are:(I read this on various forums) The are more prone to leaks, the UV destroys them, The bladder is replaceable because it deteriorates, pricy. That's about it for the cons on fiberglass. I have no firsthand experience, this is my first DIY well project. I would like to get ir right and do it for as few dollars as possible, and have it last.
 
quote; I would like to get ir right and do it for as few dollars as possible, and have it last.

You can get two out three choices, IF you want it done right and last. IF you do it cheaply, that is ALL you will get. Put the tank inside the building or in a well house and UV will NOT affect it. Steel tanks with a lining, which is how water storage tanks are made, have a long lifetime. YOU might replace a bladder rather than the tank, but I WOULD NOT, because my time is too valuable, and expensive, to do it. You are trying to replicate the "old" storage tanks with a bubble of air on top of the water. They ONLY worked when they had a "snifter" valve to maintain the air as needed, and your 4" pipe would NOT have any room for one.
 
Thank you all for your input. I think I know what I will do. A steel expansion tank (cheaper than Fiberglass), definitely put a shed around all the components, tank, control boxes. The cabin is in a place where it rarely freezes, so that is not a problem, but it rains a lot, northern California near the coast. Again thank you
 
The old plain tanks with a floating disk were the best of both worlds. Low air absorbtion and no bag to bust. Have one still working.
 
I looked at the Pside-kick and have a question, all of the other systems seem to have a 30/50 pressure switch, Pside-kick is 40/60. I have a long run that I am planning on using PVC piping, so I am concerned about pressure.
 
I have another question, do I need a check valve above ground right out of the well. The well is somewhere between 50-75 feet deep. I thoroughly appreciate all the help I got here, it has given me enough confidence to be dangerous.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Pressure tank size- 2 gal bigger OK?
Replies
6
Views
529
Reach4
Reach4
C
Air pressure for Thermal Expansion Tank above Water Heater
Replies
12
Views
791
Jeff H Young
Jeff H Young
B
First DIY: Custom Cycle Stop Valve manifold fixed short-cycling & Boiler DHW.
Replies
2
Views
289
benliang
B
K
Well pump stays on, pressure tank has no water
Replies
2
Views
487
SuperGreg
SuperGreg
NIS240SHU
New Well Pump and Pressure Tank - Worked for 24 hours
Replies
7
Views
1K
NIS240SHU
NIS240SHU
Back
Top