WHat can I use to bond PVC to brass/copper?

Pktaske

Pktaske

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The 2" PVC would be slipping over the copper drain. It's quite a snug fit but obviously not waterproof. Can't use the rubber sleeve thingee as I don't have access. Would some kind of epoxy work? Thanks....
 
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Forget the epoxy. If it is drains, there are code issues but yes, there is a proper banded rubber coupling for such applications.
 
Its a Kerdi drain fitting over a brass drain.the connection is about two inches below the slab.I've got an extra inch to work with around the outside of the pipe but once the kerdi drain is down I lose access to this. I'd need to bust up a whole lot of concrete. Since. The drain itself is getting mudded in there will be a lot of stability. If the drain was going over pvc it would get bonded with pvc cement...what's the difference if I use a heavy duty epoxy to bond these two surfaces?

There should never be standing water in this unless it clogs.

I'm surprised someone hasn't invented a waterproof shrinknwrap yet...
 
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quote; If the drain was going over pvc it would get bonded with pvc cement...what's the difference if I use a heavy duty epoxy to bond these two surfaces?

Copper to PVC is NEVER bonded with PVC cement, so your basic premise is faulty. YOU can use anything you want to, but WE will NOT tell you it is proper or will last a "lifetime", or even that it is NOT leaking once you set the base in place.
 
pktaske said:
If the drain was going over pvc it would get bonded with pvc cement...what's the difference if I use a heavy duty epoxy to bond these two surfaces?

...
Click to expand...

There is a big difference. What you refer to as PVC cement...the full name is PVC SOLVENT cement. The process is called solvent welding. The primer and cement actually "melt" the two pieces of plastic so the 'merge' into solidity. This is much different than a simple glue process.
 
Get yourself a copper to pvc no-hub connector (you'll probably have to go to a plumbing supply house, not a big box store for this), cut the copper back enough down so you can install the no-hub with enough pvc stub to seat the drain at the proper height, anchor the no-hub/pvc stub to the copper, then, when ready, glue the drain to the stub sticking up.
 
Thought of that. It would set the drain way too high. I'd end up with 3" of mud at the drain and almost 4" at the wall. That's as high as my curb.

I think I'll be ok with PC-7. I can access the inside connection and can put some extra epoxy there... or coat the inside of the drain with a thin layer of roofing cement. This keeps water out of your house and stands up to rainstorms...why wouldn't it waterproof the connection from the inside? I admit this wouldn't be preferrable for a client but as a homeowner I can monitor and live with it. In the slight chance I do develop a drip, it will be end up a foot beneath the slab.
 
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pktaske said:
Thought of that. It would set the drain way too high. I'd end up with 3" of mud at the drain and almost 4" at the wall. That's as high as my curb.

I think I'll be ok with PC-7. I can access the inside connection and can put some extra epoxy there... or coat the inside of the drain with a thin layer of roofing cement. This keeps water out of your house and stands up to rainstorms...why wouldn't it waterproof the connection from the inside? I admit this wouldn't be preferrable for a client but as a homeowner I can monitor and live with it. In the slight chance I do develop a drip, it will be end up a foot beneath the slab.
Click to expand...

If You insist on Epoxy then, JB Water-Weld may be your best bet.

I have used it when I was in a bind and was surprised after using it on a 60 PSI water line.

The key to making it work is, Roughing Both Materials that You wish to Bond, Then Mix WaterWeld Very Well. You have about 15 Minutes to work with it. It is like Putty.

I do not recommend doing this, But...
 
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Unless the copper stub is sitting right at the trap, you could excavate down enough to cut some off to keep the level where you want it and it would be an approved method, proven safe and long-term.
 
Update. I used the PC-7 and I'm pretty sure that it's going to hold. I tried it out first on a simulated bond. I roughed both up good. After 48 hrs I could not get them apart with a sledge and chisel! This saved a TON of work and mess.
 
pktaske said:
Update. I used the PC-7 and I'm pretty sure that it's going to hold. I tried it out first on a simulated bond. I roughed both up good. After 48 hrs I could not get them apart with a sledge and chisel! This saved a TON of work and mess.
Click to expand...

When I do showers I replace the p-trap. That means breaking the concrete out. Typically there is a patch there anyway,if not I make one. You may be getting ready to tear it all back out if the trap fails or the copper expanding and contracting breaks the "special" joint you have made. Then you would have 2 or 3 tons of work to do and would have wasted alot of time and money. I just cant see spending all that time and money and ending up with a half donkey job when it was over.
 
Just another example of a novice looking for approval for a hair brain idea and going ahead with it in spite of all of the advice not to. Needless to say, he won't have this inspected.
 
Maybe he was hoping at least one person, even if it were a handyman/DIYer, would tell him it was a "wonderful idea" and go ahead with it, because it is how they would have done it.
 
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