Hot water recirculation - valve problem

Pktaske

Pktaske

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I want to remove the flush spigot on my new hot water heater to connect my recirculation pump return line. However, it's plastic and I'm afraid to really force it with a wrench. I've pushed a bit and its not giving way. I've removed some insulation and it looks like threads in there (i'd be surprised if it wasn;t)Thanks...
 

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I had no trouble removing mine so I could connect a recirculation line. But if it might seem easier to connect to the cold line in at the top, that will work just as well.

Either way, be sure to use a gravity-flap check valve in the proper position so water cannot go out into the recirc line.
 
I actually have it running into the cold water line right now and it does not circulate well. My old water heater (replaced 6 months ago) did fine in the current configuration but not this one. Someone suggested running down thru the bottom inlet so thats what I'm going to try.
 
If it does not circulate to the top, it will not circulate at the bottom either, unless there is a problem in the piping connections, such as NO check valve before the connection to the cold pipe inlet.
 
Is the pump sized correctly for the system? A short description of system with pipe lengths / sizes and any head requirements would.

Have you tried calling the manufacturer?
 
quote; A short description of system with pipe lengths / sizes and any head requirements would.

Pipe sizes are irrelevent in a pumped recirculation system, and since it is a "balanced" system, the only "head requirement" would relate to friction loss, which is also almost irrelevent in a home system.
 
When you connected the tank did you bleed the recirculating line adaquately? Sometimes you get an air lock at the pump and the water will not circulate.
 
I just wanted to updaet everyone. I sweated a return line through the bottom of the tank (ie-the flush valve hole). Water now heats up in seconds. Must have been an issue with going back thru the cold water line for whatever reason.
 
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