Pump overload tripping at night

I thought I remembered seeing some paperwork about the pump that said it was 3/4 HP but that was over 3 years ago. I can't find any info on the pump so I think I am going to replace the box and watch it like you said. Hopefully it works. Thanks for all of the information guys. This is a great forum.
 
ehuddle said:
Don't make any assumptions here. I actually had to sue the builder of my home for poor construction. I can't even figure out who dug the well because he fled to the Virgin Islands during the court case. Long story...
Click to expand...
I can imagine.

You might try calling the well drillers in your area or else going to your county's "permit palace" to see what you can find out about your well and pump. A permit should have been pulled, and the driller would have submitted a report about depth and a variety of other details. That specific information might not be helpful right now, but you might need it later on down the road.
 
Any well in Texas should have been registered at the TCEQ. They should have a record of your well. Either way you need to contact the TCEQ. They can get you a record of the drilling, fine and/or ban the driller, or both.
 
I think I'm onto something now. I found the well information on the TCEQ site (thanks valveman). I found out I have a 1.5 HP Goulds pump and verified the current draw and resistance measurments in the AIM Manual (thanks ballvalve). I also talked to a guy at the well shop and he said the readings sound good and the pump is probably ok. It turns out, the pumps is under warranty for 2 more years, which is great, but it looks like the control box is the issue. I am just going to replace the box since it is around $100 and keep the old one for potential spare parts. I'm pretty sure that I've got this figured out but I'm not going to celebrate til it's working right. Thanks for all the help.

Once this is over, I might need some help getting the CSV1W that I just bought installed.
 
Franklins big boxes say 1 or 1.5 hp on the tag. maybe he has a 1. But some old boxes had resets on everything.

Should be able to get close on HP by using the resistance between the 3 wires.
 
It would be a lot cheaper to replace the bad capacitor then to buy a new Control Box.
 
It could be the capacitor, the starting relay, or both. Changing the box out is not a bad idea. Then you can repair the old box to use as a spare. However, since you now have a CSV, you will probably never need the spare box.
 
I found a new control box for $65. For that price, I didn't feel like messing with one part at a time. I should have it installed this weekend. Then I'll start a new post about the CSV. I can already see that I'm going to have issues with the relilef valve. I guess I didn't read enough to notice that you need to install the CSV before the relief valve so my idea of putting it in the garage by the pressure tank probably won't fly.
 
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