How far down should bush be inserted into shower drain

Hi everyone,

I'm ready to install my shower drain kit and I have to either bush down from 2" to 1 1/2" inside the drain or use a 1 1/2" gasket rather than the 2" that comes with the kit. Our code specifies that you can use a 1 1/2" drain if there's only one shower head and I can't replace the 1 1/2 with 2 because of where the vent stack is so I have to transition.

I'm finding the 1 1/2" rubber gasket to be very difficult to compress and I don't know if I'll get a good seal on the drain with it. In any case, where should the pipe (or reducer bush) come up to on the gasket in the drain? Should it be flush with the top of it like this:



or should it be a little ways down (3/8") like this:



I will be using silicone under the rim of the drain but I've also read here that you should put some inside the drain for extra insurance. Does that mean I should seal all gaps with silicone (between gasket and pipe and between compression ring and body)?

Thanks again in advance,
Kim

How far down should bush be inserted into drain?

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If your bush reaches the drain, you need immediate attention at the depilitory shop.

LMAO!

OK, I guess I asked for that, ballvalve. Any thought on the real issue at hand?

bwahahahah NICE! lol

I use the glued shower drains, those gaskets will fail eventually. Then all it takes is a glued bushing underneath to do the transition.

OK, so I won't be using the glued drain because I like to be able to disassemble things if I need to (I prefer using screws rather than nails if I can, floating floors rather than glue-down, etc.)

Can anyone with experience with this type of assembly actually answer the question?

TIA

Around here the bush is where I send the dog to do her business.

I've only ever worked with 2" shower drains and I use the type with the compression gland. I do put a film of silicone seal under the lip where it meets the pan but nowhere else. I just use a tiny bit of soap and water to wet the rubber gland to lubricate it.

I cut the pipe just short enough so that it doesn't interfere with the metal tool used to tighten the gland nut.

If you use silicone to seal the drain, you do NOT have to be worried about 'disassembling" it some day, because you will have to chop it loose anyway. The pipe normally extends just below the strainer, so it does not interfere with it, and then the "bush/bushing" slides over it. It is normally long enough so it reaches the bottom of the drain with just a small amount of pipe projecting out of it.

Thank you, hj.